#ag
,! ,slag ,h1p

,9 ! ,refugio at ,p5it5tes1 ne> ! trailh1d ( ,aconcagua1 ,*ris approa*$ !
t1m ov] 9/ant c(fee & /ale h>d bricks ( br1d4 8,bad news1 boys4 ,! gau*os
s5t a mulete] "? ! ,vacas 6see if ! riv] 0 passa#1 b he cdn't ev5 get t f>4
,a huge avalan*e has clos$ (f ! 5tire valley4 ,"!'s a hundr$ feet ( sn[
block+ ! way4 ,"! a9't no gett+ "?1 un.s y br"\ yr *a9 saw40

,\r plan _h be5 6climb ,aconcagua's ,poli% ,glaci]1 an ice climb on !
m.ta9's nor?ea/ side4 8,t'd 2 pretty cool1 6get y up ! ,poli%10 ,*ris
,morris sd1 :5 ,i _h propos$ ! idea 6hm at ! 5d ( \r ,d5ali climb4 ,s9ce
!n1 ,ellie & ,i _h mov$ 6,d5v]1 ,colorado1 ": %e a3ept$ a job t1*+ six?
grade :ile my "wplace 0 ! grt ,rocky ,m.ta9s1 ! id1l sett+ 6tra94 ,sam _h
mov$ 6,san ,francisco 62g9 a new t1*+ job & 0 \ ( -mis.n1 at l1/ =a :ile4
,jeff1 on ! o!r h&1 0 / liv+ ! c>efree vagabond life ) no s]i\s job 6tie hm
d[n1 s he 0 r>+ = ano!r adv5ture4 ,i _h ev5 3v9c$ ,hans1 ! _w's fa/e/
climb]1 6jo9 u4

,)! gau*o's news1 h["e1 a ye> ( plann+1 /rategiz+1 organiz+1 & tra9+ 0
buri$ "u an acre ( rub# & sn[4 ,i tri$ n 6let ! 4appo9t;t 2come p]sonal1 z
if ! m.ta9 7 /rik+ \ at me4 ,9 fact1 t's :at ,i l ab ! m.ta9s2 !y >e
oblivi\s 6human ambi;n1 b ^! natural =ces _h n"e hit s close 6my [n ambi;n4

8,i guess x's ! ,r\te ,normal10 ,jeff sd1 pu%+ back 8 *air & lau<+
s>ca/ic,y4

8,b ! ,r\te ,normal's a slag h1p10 ,i -pla9$4 8,! guidebook says x's ! _w's
talle/ pile ( rocks40

8,yessir6 ,x is10 ,*ris /at$ emphatic,y4 ,we 7 all sil5t =a m9ute1
3templat+ f\rte5 ?\s& feet ( dirt1 rocks1 & scree4

8,get r1dy = "s slag climb+40 ,*ris f9aliz$ ! deci.n4

8,!n1 let's climb ! damn ?+ & get ? slag h1p ov] )10 ,i ?"\ bitt]ly1 b ev5
z ? ?"\ mat]ializ$ 9 my bra91 ,i knew x 0 a mistake 6"ue/imate ! m.ta91 or
ev5 worse1 4respect x4

,a jeep c>ri$ u up a l;g bumpy dirt road 6! trailh1d4 ,! sun %"o "? a /iff
breeze4 ,we hik$ al;g a n>r[ trail cut 96! mi4le (a /eep scree slope1 6\r
"r ! slope ris+ up hundr$s ( feet & on ! left dropp+ sev]ely 6a rag+ riv]4
,?ree hundr$ feet abv x1 ,i cd feel a cool damp h9t ( spray4 ,i /epp$ =w>d
) "o foot directly 9 front (! o!r1 l1n+ h1vily on my trekk+ poles & scann+
"o \ 9 front = rocks or drops 9 ! trail4 8,/ay "r10 ,jeff sd4 8,d1? fall 6!
left40 ,8 voice _h a h9t ( humor 9 x1 b we bo? knew ! message 0 v s]i\s4

8,wd ,i fall /rai<t 96! riv]80 ,i ask$ n]v\sly4

8,oh no10 he repli$ z if 6reassure me4 8,y'd b\nce a few "ts 2f y hit !
wat]40

8,grt40

8,oh1 y1h60 he 3t9u$1 on a roll4 8,y'd smack a l$ge e hundr$ feet or s4
,y'd br1k a lot ( b"os 2f y 7 swall[$ up 0a ?\s& gallons ( foam40 ,next we
crawl$ acr a dilapidat$ bridge reduc$ 6j a few planks & 2gan foll[+ a trail
on ! o!r side (! riv]4 8,n[1 /ay 6! left10 he sd4 8,drop on ! "r4 ,x wdn't
kill y1 b y'd 2 sev]ely piss$ (f40 ,f !n on all drop-(fs 7 divid$ 96?ree
categories1 8d1?10 8sev]ely piss$ (f10 & 8mildly annoy$40

,! next "d we "w$ \r way up a l;g flat valley1 \r bodies l1n+ 96a 3/ant
/r1m ( ro>+ w9d4 ,jeff describ$ ! sn[-cov]$ p1ks ris+ up on bo? sides ( u4
,9 ! afn ! trail /eep5$ & culm9at$ 9 a s]ies ( swit*backs4 ,at ! top ,jeff
gasp$ 9 /unn$ 4belief4 8,"! >e two ?+s ,i'm sure ( "r n[4 ,? isn't base
camp1 & ^? >e \r du6els pil$ 9 front ( u40 ,we 7 / five hundr$ feet 2l base
camp2 ! trail 3t9u$ up "? a jum#d field ( .penitentes--ice p9nacles jutt+ \
(! sn[ f six 9*es 6six feet hi<4 ,x's /&>d proc$ure on ,aconcagua = mules
6c>ry yr ge> 6base camp1 b ! mulete]s m/ h judg$ ! .penitentes too dang]\s
& dropp$ ! loads "h4

,"! 7 no flat spaces = t5ts1 s we set up camp on ! side (! slope 9 a cold1
bla/+ w9d4 ,i _h le>n$ f pa/ climbs t ? 0 a v dang]\s "t (! "d4 ,\r bodies1
af a l;g "d's ef=t1 7 exhau/$1 dehydrat$1 & damp4 ,& n[ )! plummet+
temp]ature & my body no l;g] 9 3/ant mo;n1 ,i 2gan 6%iv]4 ,i knew 6keep
mov+1 keep "w+ 6haul loads1 pile rocks = w9d walls1 organize food bags1
any?+ 6keep my blood fl[+ until ,i cd crawl 96! w>m cocoon ( my t5t4

,! next "d we %uttl$ loads "? .penitente fields 6base camp4 ,ea* trip only
took an h\r1 b .penitentes >e a bl p]son's ultimate puni%;t = 8 s9s4 ,if ,i
re,y hat$ ano!r bl p]son1 ,i'd drop hm f a helicopt] 96! mi4le (a
.penitente field & yell d[n f ! op5 door z we so>$ (f 6! ne>e/ ,dairy ,que5
= banana splits1 8,h fun4 ,see y 9 hell60 ,ev5 ?\< we 7 at a hi<] altitude
) cold temp]atures1 ! sun 0 9t5se1 burn+ ! sn[fields 96a *aotic >ray ( ja7$
%apes1 deep grooves1 & sev]e angles4 ,2+ bl & c>ry+ a sixty-p.d pack1
navigat+ >.d & on top ( .penitentes1 is tr1*]\s1 sl[ go+4 ,/epp+ f "o %>p
n>r[ p9nacle 6! next1 my feet 7 slid+ & my upp] body wo2l+ prec>i\sly4 ,a
fall wd m1n a l;g slide 96a deep unev5 ga% 9 ! ice4 ,i 0 afraid ( br1k+ an
ankle or sma%+ a knee ag/ ! rock-h>d po9ts4 ,*ris wd hike 9 front ( me
pick+ \ ! l1/ horr5d\s pa?4 8,/ay 9 ? n>r[ groove4 ,keep yr feet 9 x4 ,n[
big /ep onto a .penitente40 ,my foot hov]$ ov] a deep slot4 8,no6 ,left
'''0 ,my foot prob$ =! top (! icy ne$le4 8,m left '''0 ,my foot press$ d[n1
di7+ in4 8,p]fect4 ,only fifte5 m feet until scree40

,9 ,yosemite1 desc5d+ 5d.s scree fields af "d climbs1 ,i didn't ?9k "! cd 2
any?+ worse1 slipp+ & slid+ ov] loose rocks1 knees crack+1 ankles b5d+ &
3tort+ 96grotesque angles4 ,b n[ fifte5 feet f ! scree1 ,i be7$ = x4 ,i
tott]$ s sl[ly acr ! .penitentes t ,i felt l ,i wasn't re,y 3tribut+ 6! t1m
ef=t4 ,ea* ( my t1mmates cd h probably made two trips 9 ! "t x took me
6make "o4 ,z we r1*$ base camp1 ,i dropp$ my load & sat on my pack1 wait+ =
,*ris 6sp1k4 ,i expect$ hm 6say1 8,]ik1 y hang "h4 ,we'll get ! re/40 ,9/1d
he sd1 8,:at ! hell y sitt+ >.d =8 ,?9k y're on holi"d 9 ! s\? ( ,fr.e8
,we've got ano!r load 6haul40

,f9,y at base camp1 ,*ris look$ >.d =a place 6camp4 8,:at's x look l80 ,i
ask$4

8,oh1 x's b1uti;l10 ,*ris repli$1 plac+ a ru/y piece ( *ick5 wire 9 my h&4

8,:at's ?80 ,i ask$4

8,b1ts ! hell \ ( me4 ,"!'s crap l t "ey":40 ,spl9t]$ wood5 b1ms1 ru/y
%eets ( metal1 & burlap sacks litt]$ ! gr.d4 ,s\? ,am]ican 5viron;talism is
n q up 6t ( ,d5ali or ,ra9i]4 ,9 two weeks1 ? empty junky>d wd 2 3v]t$ 96a
t5t c;y1 sell+ "ey?+ f ,9ca ,cola & .c]vesas 6a full-fl$g$ t1m ( guides1
cooks1 & port]s =! upp] m.ta94 ,i 0 glad we _h >riv$ pres1son4

,= me ! wor/ "p ( m.ta9e]+ is ea* "t nature calls4 ,curl$ up 9 my w>m
sleep+ bag at ni<t1 feel+ ! urge & "k+ relief w m1n wak+ up my t5t mate &
bo? ( u ?ra%+ >.d 6put on a doz5 pieces ( clo?+1 ,i'd lie awake1 dr1d+ !
mo;t4 ,on ,aconcagua1 9/1d ( hav+ 6be 8grump$10 : 0 an unpl1sant "p ( 2+ my
t5t mate1 ,jeff _h evolv$ a sy/em4 ,jeff wd poke 8 eyes \ (! t5t & yell \
direc;ns4 ,ab fifty y>ds f \r t5ts 0 a n>r[ rocky rav9e1 : ,*ris _h "nd
,gr[l]s ,grotto1 2c f ! hundr$s ( piles ( ll froz5 turds1 he _h surmis$ ? 0
! camp's latr9e4 8,/rai<t1 n[ left1 m left1 /op1 turn >.d ''' ,fire away60
,t ni<t1 ,i 0 feel+ bold1 & decid$ 6f9d ,gr[l]s ,grotto on my [n1 b ,i got
a ll 4ori5t$ 9 ! b\ld]s4 ,i climb$ ov] a ll ridge & on ! o!r side1 feel+ !
rock wall 2h me1 decid$ ? 0 z gd a place z any4 ,x ev5 seem$ 6be \ ( view f
! ma9 camp4 ,midway "? ! act1 my privacy 0 9t]rupt$ 0%>p voices waft+ up f
2l ! ridge4 8,:at's he do+80 ! female voice call$ \ 9 a ?ick ,5gli% a35t4
,=a fleet+ mo;t1 ,i pray$ %e 0 ref]r+ 6"s"o else1 ano!r bl guy1 p]h1 tak+ a
grump on ! opposite ridge4

8,t's a bloom+ 4grace10 a male voice yell$4

,female voice3 8,t's an \trage1 "r \ 9 pla9 view40

,male voice3 8,! bloke has no respect60 ,i imag9$ ! ,briti% newlyw$s1 5joy+
! h"oymoon (a life"t1 boil+ _! freeze-dri$ %eph]d's pie "u ! full1 full
moon4 8,d>l+10 %e mi<t h />t$1 8isn't ? romantic8 ,isn't ! moon s unusu,y
pale tn80 ,hold+ h&s1 !y gaze up1 _! lov+ expres.ns qkly *ang+ 64gu/ :5 !y
notice ! 8moon0 mov+ a bit too m*4 ,i desp]ately want$ 6retr1t1 b ,i 0 pa/
! po9t ( no return4 ,0n[ x 0 pa9;lly obvi\s :o ! bloke ) no respect was1 b
squatt+ ne> ! top (! ridge1 ,i clung 6my philosophy t _h manag$ 6keep me
safe 9 ! pa/4 8,:at ,i c't see1 won't hurt 'em40

,abv base camp we 7 back 96! famili>4 ,we knew \r job4 ,we wd %uttle loads
6\r two hi<] camps & !n make a s+le c>ry 6\r presummit camp at #ai1ejj
feet4 ,f "! we'd wait =a cle> calm "d & g =! summit4 ,on ! f/ %uttle "d we
made gd "t1 plu7+ /1dily up ! 9t]mitt5t scree & sn[4 ,"ey"o 0 excit$ 6f9,y
2 gett+ abv ! signs ( human havoc 96a r1lm m sacr$4 ,x 0 excit+ 6f9,y feel
! ?9 crisp air ag/ my body & 9 my lungs4 ,on ! way back 6base camp1 ,jeff &
,hans tri$ _! h&s at glissad+ :ile ,*ris & ,i took ! m 3s]vative desc5t d[n
! trail4 ,desc5d+ a m.ta9 is probably ! mo/ di6icult "p = me1 & ,i move
sl[] ?an a si<t$ p]son4 ,i ext5d my trekk+ poles 6_! full l5g? s ,i c feel
! t]ra9 2l me4 ,i m/ make a biz>re si<t1 wa4l+ al;g l a giant duck1 l1n+
=w>d on my poles1 butt protrud+ \1 & feet slapp+ >.d z !y se>* = flat /eps4
,:5 we %u6l$ 96base camp1 two ,>g5t9es met u excit$ly4

8,hot tea0 "o sd & ?ru/ a !rmos 96my h&4 ,i drank "s & pass$ x on 6,*ris4
,:5 ,*ris h&$ x back1 ! o!r ,>g5t9e sd urg5tly1 8,n[1 we get doctor40 ,i 0
3fus$4 8,doctor80 ,*ris rep1t$4 8,doctor1 = yr amigo10 he p]si/$4 ,lat]
,*ris sd ! man _h po9t$ 6me1 sway+ crazily back & =? & mak+ 8 eyes v wide4
,!n ,*ris let \ a s.d 2t a grunt &a lau<4 8,no6 ,no6 ,n sick1 bl40 ,*ris
wav$ 8 h& 9 front ( 8 face4 8,bl60 ,! ,>g5t9e wav$ 8 h& 9 front ( 8 [n
face4 8,bl80 he rep1t$ & turn$ 6his fr4 8,bl80 he sd4 ,!y murmur$ back & =?
9 ,spani%1 p]iodic,y wav+ _! h&s 9 front ( _! faces4 ,*ris 9t]ject$1 8,he's
n sick4 ,he alw looks l t40 ,he slapp$ my %\ld] & ? "t ! s.d 0 m l a lau<4
,despite my exhaus;n1 ,i lau<$ too4 ,we proce$$ d[n ! trail 6\r camp1 !
,>g5t9es trail+ 2h1 wat*+ c>e;lly1 n q 3v9c$ ( ? prepo/]\s /ory4 ,i =c$ myf
6walk a ll /rai<t] & /ep a ll m 3fid5tly4


,ly+ 9 my t5t af >riv+ at ,camp ,canada--#af1ejj feet--,i gra2$ "o ( my
pla/ic wat] bottles sitt+ 9 ! corn]1 "k+ ! import.e ( /ay+ hydrat$4 ,f/ ,i
dropp$ "s dr9k mix 96! full bottle & %ook x up4 ,!n ,i lift$ x up 6my lips
& took a big swig4 ,su45ly my :ole body %u4]$4 ,! dr9k 0 noxi\s1 w>m1
salty1 & ammonia-ta/+4 ,if ,i didn't "k any bett]1 ,i wd swe> ,i _h j drunk
a m\?;l ( dr9k mix ov] piss1 ,i ?"\4

,/ %u4]+1 ,i /epp$ \tside1 hold+ ! bottle 9 my h&4 ,h[ cd a bottle ( dr9k
mix & wat] possibly ta/e l piss8 ,i wond]$ if ,i _h a malfunc;n 9 my ta/e
buds1 & 0 ab 6te/ ! !ory 0tak+ ano!r sip1 :5 ,*ris ru%$ ov] frantic,y4 8,oh
dude6 ,tell me y didn't j dr9k \ ( my piss bottle40 ,ea* ( u _h pee
bottles1 s we wdn't h 6bo!r gett+ dress$ & /epp+ \tside 9 ! ni<t1 b ,i _h
se5 6x t !y 7 di6]5t sizes ?an \r wat] bottles4 ,app>5tly ,*ris _h lo/ 8
pee bottle at base camp1 s _h 2gun -plet+ ! job 9 "o ( 8 wat] bottles4
8,sorry "!1 "y sportsman4 ,i wrote ,8pee0' on x 9 big black lrs4 ,:at !
hell1 >e y bl or "s?+80 ,*ris sd z ,i took a few /eps & =c$ myf 6puke 9 !
dirt4

,0,camp ,canada1 we _h be5 on ! m.ta9 a week1 alr hav+ -plet$ "o cycle (!
freeze-dri$ m1l v>ieties c>ri$ ) u4

8,:at's = d9n]80 ,i ask$ ,*ris4

8,well10 he sd1 8,6make x up 6ya = dr9k+ my piss1 ,i'm :ipp+ up "s?+
special3 filet mignon ) b@e>naise sauce &a side ( asp>agus tips1 li<tly
brais$ 9 g>lic4 ,&= dess]t1 ,new ,york *eesecake40

8,don't =get ! af-d9n] liqueurs10 ,jeff a4$4

8,-e on10 ,i sd1 my m\? wat]+1 despite my l+]+ s5sory memory ( pee4

8,:at d y ?9k's = d9n]80 ,*ris %ot back1 8,! same lumpy na/y gruel we've
be5 eat+ =! la/ week40

,di7+ 96a h1p+ b[l ( ,new ,orl1ns /yle r$ b1ns & rice1 ,i bit "s?+ h>d t
s5t jolts "? my tee?4 8,:at's ?80 ,i ask$ 9 %ock1 hold+ up ! m>#-siz$
object 9 my palm4

8,:y t'd 2 a rock10 ,*ris retort$ calmly z if recit+ ! sports scores4 8,oh1
y1h1 ! sn[ >.d "h is k9d ( old4 ,lots ( rocks & peb#s 9 "!1 s bite g+]ly
boys40 ,he *uckl$ a secret lau<4

,t ni<t1 we sat on \r packs z ! sun w5t d[n &! temp]ature dropp$1 attempt+
6/ret* ! m9utes 2f we 7 =c$ 96\r l;g ni<t's twelve-h\r captiv;y 9 ! t5t4 ,!
w9d 2gan 6bl[1 f/ z a :isp] & !n 9 %ort fi]ce gu/s t made me hunk] d[n &
squeeze my >ms 96my body4 ,at "ts l ?1 ,*ris 0 fam\s = practic+ an attitude
he call$1 8positive pessimism40 8,x sure is cold10 ,*ris -;t$1 8b at l1/
x's w9dy40

,!n ,i jump$ in1 immly cat*+ on 6! rules (! game4 8,x sure is du/y1 b at
l1/ "!'s rocks 9 \r food40

,"ey"o pip$ 9 ) _! [n v].ns4 8,? mu% sure does ta/e aw;l1 b at l1/ x's
freeze-dri$40

,jeff 0 ! f/ 6retr1t 6! w>m? ( \r t5t1 b 9 a few m9utes he call$ \1 8,!
gr.d sure is h>d1 b at l1/ "!'s a hole 9 my sleep+ pad40

,t ni<t ,i lay awake next 6,jeff1 li/5+ 6! ]ratic w9d bur/s z x flapp$ !
fabric (! t5t & rattl$ ! t5t zipp]s1 hop+ we wd get a /roke ( luck &! w1!r
wd improve4 ,i r1*$ my h& 2t ! top -"p;t ( my pack & xs ma9 body 6! silv]
angel p91 atta*$ unse5 6! fabric4 ,my gr&"m _h giv5 x 6me on my la/ visit4
,my gr&p>5ts' res]v,ns ab my climb+ trips _h n"e be5 subtle4 ,on ! same
visit1 ,i 0 sitt+ 9 front (! ,,tv ) my gr&dad :5 a seg;t ab my ,mc,k9ley
climb came on ! news4 ,dur+ ! video clip ( me tak+ my la/ few /eps 6!
summit1 ?\s&s ( feet ( air 2l me on all sides1 ,gr&dad haul$ hmf \ ( 8 big1
/u6$ ,la-;,z-,boy recl9] & *>g$ ! scre51 fa/] ?an he _h mov$ 9 ye>s4 ,8 >m
wav+ at ! picture1 -pletely =gett+ my pres;e 9 ! room1 he yell$1 8,don't y
"k y're bl1 boy8 ,get y\self (f t ,god damn m.ta9 '=e y kill y\self40
,lat]1 at ! kit*5 ta#1 af my gr&"m di%$ up my plate1 my prob+ =k 3t9u$ 6-e
acr an 5d.s supply ( roa/ beef4 ,i soon r1liz$ t ea* "t my =k rais$ t[>d my
m\?1 my gr&dad 0 quietly slipp+ ano!r piece on my plate4 ,i ?9k 8 plan 0
6fatt5 me up 96s* a d\<boy t ,i cd h>dly get \ ( my *air1 let al"o get up a
m.ta94 ,af ! m1l1 my gr&"m sd1 8,x's "t = y 6quit gallivant+ >.d on ^?
m.ta9s4 ,:y don't y settle d[n l a man ( yr age %d & h yrf "s babies80 ,"k+
t ,i wasn't sway$1 %e _h fi%$ >.d 9 h] jewelry box & h&$ me ! angel p94 ,a
fr _h giv5 x 6h] af my "m's fun]al4 8,if ,i c't talk s5se 96y10 %e sd1 8!n1
maybe yr mama c1 & if ev5 %e c't1 %e'll keep y safe40

,curl$ up 9 my h1vy d[n sleep+ bag1 ,i t\*$ ! t9y p91 felt ! ?9 w+s l ^? (a
butt]fly1 &! 9tricate g>l& >.d ! h1d4 ,x wd 2 k9d ( sick 6try 6use my "m's
_s 6*ange ,aconcagua's w1!r patt]ns s we cd /& on top1 b ,i hop$ x wd give
me ! /r5g? 6make safe r,nal deci.ns1 6surr.d myf )a /r;g t1m1 & n all[ my
aspir,ns 6defy ! cru%+ p[] ( ? m.ta94

,! next morn+1 we awoke 6a foot ( fre% sn[ blanket+ \r t5t1 s we /ay$ cozy
9side1 figur+ we'd 2 sitt+ "? a bad-w1!r "d4 ,>.d "o p4m41 a /range ll
pigeonhole ( sun br"\ u \ ( \r t5ts4 ,*ris1 alr pac+ \tside1 sd1 8,guess
:at1 boys80 & n wait+ =a response1 3t9u$1 8,yessir1 we're mov+4 ,maybe1
we'll ev5 h "t 6get 6! next camp 2f x craps \ ag40

,9side ! t5t1 z ,i pack$ up1 ,jeff1 2s me1 mov$ unusu,y sl[ly4 ,8 upp] body
swoon$ back & =? r1*+ = 8 posses.ns & 8 clumsy h&s /u6$ ge> haphaz>dly
96his pack1 "s"ts miss+ ! op5+ alt4 ,:5 ,i ask$ hm if he 0 ,,ok1 he mum#d
back1 8,don't worry ab me4 ,"ey?+'s j f9e10 b halfway up a /eep scree field
6camp1 x 0 obvi\s t "ey?+ wasn't f9e4 ,he _h be5 /opp+ e five m9utes z he
hik$ 2s me4 8,y ,,ok1 bu4y80 ,i sd1 gra2+ 8 >ms4 ,jeff 0 l1n+ h1vily ov] 8
ice ax1 h1d hang+ d[n4 8,"ey?+'s dizzy10 he slurr$4 8,i feel l ,i'm gonna
pass \40

8,tell me :at's go+ on10 ,i sd1 a ll sc>$4

8,i took an antihi/am9e10 he :isp]$4 8,f\r ( 'em40 ,all ( u _h su6]$ f a
dry hi<-altitude c\< & /u6$-up nose1 caus$ 0br1?+ 9 s m* du/4 ,"? ! ni<t ,i
cd alw he> "s"o hack+ away 9 _! t5t4 8,i cd "u/& ! ne$ = an antihi/am9e10
,i told ,jeff4 8,b f\r ( 'em80 ,i ask$4

8,i ?"\ x 0 a re/ "d10 he grum#d1 8& !n home *ick5 _h 6g & *ange ! plan40

,z ! cl\ds roll$ 9 &! w9d pick$ up ag1 we 7 no": ne> camp & cle>ly 9 tr\#4
,*ris got "r 9 ,jeff's face & yell$1 8,-e on1 ,jeff1 get x tgr4 ,w1!r's
-in' in1 & ? a9't no place 6be screw+ ! poo*40 ,all ( u took a por;n (
wei<t f ,jeff's pack & z ,i /u6$ :at seem$ l a giant load 96my alr ov]/u6$
pack & slipp$ & /a7]$ up ! slope1 ,i -pletely regrett$ t deci.n1 b al knew
we _h no *oice4 ,=! next ?ree h\rs1 z ! fury (! /orm came d[n on top ( u1
we /uck 0,jeff1 :o seem$ 6improve a ll ) no wei<t 6c>ry4 ,*ris hik$ al;g "r
2h hm1 slapp+ 8 ski poles tgr & yell+ \1 8,ya1 ya1 mule4 ,keep x mov9'4 ,:5
y're back 6normal1 y & ,i >e gonna h a ^w40

,:5 we came 96\r #ag1ejj-foot camp1 "nd ,! ,ne/ (! ,3dors1 we 7 2+ pelt$
0h>d nu7ets ( hail4 ,jeff plopp$ limply d[n on 8 pack1 h1d 2t 8 knees1 z !
re/ ( u ga!r$ rocks = w9d walls4 ,i kept busy1 walk+ 9 /rai<t l9es \ f !
campsite1 sw++ my feet & trekk+ poles1 until ,i kick$ a rock ) my h>d
pla/ic boots4 ,!n ,i'd haul ! rock back & place x on ! wall4 ,! temp]ature
0 plummet+1 & ,i wd h be5 gett+ cold if ,i _hn't be5 s preo3upi$ lur*+ >.d
"u ! wei<t ( l>ge rocks & 2t c>ries1 t5d+ 6,jeff4 ,i pull$ my d[n jacket f
my pack & wrapp$ x >.d hm & !n "w$ fa/ 6set up \r t5t4 ,:5 x 0 up1 ,i gra2$
8 sleep+ pads1 sleep+ bag1 & v>i\s /uff sacks1 : o!rs _h dropp$ at ! h1d (!
t5t1 & laid !m \4 ,!n ,i help$ ,jeff 9side & he collaps$ faced[n4 ,roll+ hm
ov] & tak+ (f 8 boots1 ,i got hm 9side 8 sleep+ bag & e few m9utes wd *eck
8 br1?s 0putt+ my e> 6his lips4 ,8 br1?s 7 s fa9t1 ,i cd b>ely he> !m ag/ !
rattle (! w9d4 ,s ,i put my h& 6his lips & felt a trace ( w>m humid;y4 ,i
knew if he fell asleep 9 ? /ate & at ? altitude1 he cd easily /op br1?+1 s
:5"e ,i felt he 0 drift+ (f1 ,i'd yell 9 8 face1 8,hey ,jeff1 h[ y do+8
,:at's go+ on8 ,:at >e y ?9k+8 ,tell me ab all ^? ,>g5t9e babes y're gonna
hit on :5 we get d[n10 & :5 t got no response1 8,hey ,jeff1 j ?9k1 ?is's !
second "t ,i'm sav+ yr life10 & ,jeff murmur$ back1 8,sup] ,bl40

,>.d midni<t1 ,jeff's br1?+ seem$ 6be -+ easi] & m audibly1 & ,i cd tell !
antihi/am9e 0 we>+ (f4 ,9 ! morn+1 ) ,jeff / a ll gro7y b basic,y back
6normal1 ,*ris liv$ up 6his ^w & lectur$ ,jeff1 rem9isc5t (a lov+ "f
4appo9t$ 9 8 son4 8,y sorry ass1 ----4 ,if y "e pull t "o ag1 ,i'll ----40

,! w9d h[l$ "? ! next "d4 ,f ,! ,ne/ (! ,3dors1 ! t1m cd f9,y see ! summit4
,jeff look$ up & describ$ ! hi< cirrus cl\ds1 l pa9tbru% /rokes /r1k+ acr !
sky4 8,!y call 'em m>e's tails10 ,*ris a4$4 8,:5 y see ^? x m1ns hi< w9d at
! summit40 ,z if 6a6irm 8 /ate;t1 va/ plumes ( sn[ %ot hundr$s ( feet
v]tic,y 96! air1 obscur+ ! summit = an 5tire m9ute4 8,6make sn[ d t10 he
sd1 8! w9d has 6be bl[+ at l1/ a hundr$ miles p] h\r4 ,? a9't a travel "d1
boys40

8,y're absolutely positive ? "t80 ,jeff ask$ cau/ic,y4 8,y're n gonna
su45ly get a wild hair 6g =! summit80

,on bad-w1!r "ds1 "t wd creep 0& !n explode 9 qk bur/s ( excite;t4 ,\r t5ts
7 set up only a few feet f ea* o!r1 s we cd pass books1 food1 ,walkmans1 et
cet]a1 back & =?4 ,he>+ a t5t door 2+ zipp]$ op51 ,i roll$ ov] quietly &
r1*$ = my >s5al ( r1dy-made sn[balls pil$ 9 ! ve/ibule4

8,y alw laun* 'em too e>ly10 ,jeff :isp]$4 8,be pati5t1 until 8 door's
fully op540 ,i lay / z ,*ris :i/l$ & rattl$ a /ove4

8,n[10 ,jeff ro>$1 z he yank$ d[n \r door's zipp]4 ,*ris 0 r1dy = x ) 8 [n
attack4 ,a sn[ball ?u4$ ag/ ! t5t abv me4 ,ice *unks spill$ onto my %\ld]4
,!n ,i :ipp$ m9e directly t[>d ! =m] s.d ( :i/l+4 ,x rocket$ "? 8 op5
ve/ibule & explod$ "r on 8 sleep+ bag4 ,:5 y h j exp]i;ed a small victory1
,i've f.d x's be/ 6quit4 ,i zipp$ up \r fly & w5t back 6my ,walkman4

,! w9d _hn't /opp$ 9 ! la/ week4 ,x _h pret5d$ 6/op1 t1s+ u z we lay trapp$
9 \r t5ts4 ,! m.ta9 wd gr[ / & calm l a vacuum1 & !n x wd abruptly s5d a
bla/ %ak+ ! flimsy poles (! t5t1 lift+ x up & slamm+ x d[n ag4 ,! guide
wires wd pull tau<t & gr[ slack1 twang+ l ru2] b&s4 ,i _h felt w9d on
,mc,k9ley1 b n l ?4 ,"! x wd bl[ /r;gly =a "d or two & !n subside4 ,? w9d
seem$ di6]5t 9 ! way x wd 2g9 z a :isp] & gr[ 96a %riek+ ro>1 5clos+ u 9 xs
s.d1 s t ,i wd h 6scr1m at my t5t mate 6make myf he>d4 ,x wd bl[ at ! t5t f
di6]5t angles1 f "o side & !n ! o!r & !n /rai<t d[n4 ,!n x wd seem 6be
swirl+ >.d ! t5t1 -+ f "ey": at once4 ,yes1 ? w9d 0 di6]5t f ,d5ali4 ,x _h
p]sonal;y4 ,x 0 alive4

,trudg+ up 6\r presummit camp1 backpacks bulg+ ) ge>1 ,*ris ask$ 8,s1 ,big
;,e1 h[ l;g y wanna d ? k9d ( /uff =80

8,until ,i'm =ty or s4 ,!n ,i ?9k ,i'll get x \ ( my sy/em40

8,n me10 he qkly repli$4 8,i want 6d ? ="e40 ,!n he hesitat$1 z if he _h
spok5 too m*4 8,b ,i'm j an old climb+ bum10 he lau<$4 8,/r;g back1 w1k
,,iq40

8,y're sort ( sl[-witt$10 ,i a4$1 8b at l1/ y're /upid40

,until n[ \r free mo;ts _h be5 fill$ up 0,*ris's jokes ab ! mis]y ( m.ta9
climb+1 b n[ ,i r1liz$ t 8 jokes 7 n -pla9ts4 ,i ?9k "! >e "ts :5 y re,y
love "s?+1 b y're emb>rass$ 6admit x 2c y "k ! ?+ y love is only a slag
h1p4 ,y make fun (! m.ta9 & yrf = yr deci.n 6be "h :51 "un1?1 ! jokes >e
re,y praises4 ,secretly ,i _h le>n$ 6love x too1 e mo;t ( x--! way ! rock &
scree felt "u my boot z ,i prob$ =a secure /ep1 f9,y f9d+ x1 my leg driv+
my body up ano!r foot2 ! way ! w9d felt z x ro>$ ag/ my face & pa/ my e>s1
cutt+ me (f f ! _w1 s t x 0 only me &! /a7]+ =ce (! m.ta94


,at ,pi$ras ,blancas at #ai1ejj feet1 we all tri$ 6fall asleep e>ly1 b = "s
my/]i\s r1son my "r eye felt l an active volcano1 r1dy 6explode \ ( my h1d4
,at hi< altitude on ,d5ali1 x _hn't "e felt l ?4 ,i wond]$ if x 0 j a "o-"t
fluke1 b ! cynical "p ( me fe>$ t my "o rema9+ eye 0 *ang+1 p]h1 2g9n+
6build 9 pressure1 l my left eye _h d"o 9 college4 ,n[ my eyeball felt l
9t]nal f+]s 7 pu%+ \tw>d1 try+ 6poke holes 9 my eye's surface4 ,"?\t ! l;g
ni<t1 ,i squeez$ my eye %ut & kept my palm press$ ag/ x1 try+ 6-bat ! cruel
ll f+]s4 ,0! next morn+ ,i 0 exhau/$1 & f.d x h>d 6?9k ab any?+ o!r ?an !
pa94 ,i knew ,i _h 6/ay focus$1 2c1 z a t1m1 we _h ev5 bi7] pro#ms4
,despite \r pray]s 6! m.ta9 gods & \r reque/s = =give;s = once writ+ (f ?
fi]ce m.ta9 z a slag h1p1 "s"t ab midni<t ,i woke 6he> ! w9d return+4 ,i 0
2g9n+ 6"u/& h[ "s"o cd g 9sane4 ,jeff call$ x 8,>g5t91n w9d torture40 ,i _h
2gun giv+ ! w9d di6]5t "ns at ea* subsequ5t camp1 imag9+ !y 7 all "p ( an
ext5d$ family4 ,ly+ awake 9 a tir$ delirium1 ,i greet$ ! w9d1 8,hello
,uncle4 ,i met yr nephew d[n at sixte54 ,he 0 v blu/]y b n ne>ly z cold z
y4 ,i met yr wife d[n at sev5te54 ,%e 0 a fi]ce "o4 ,%e ro>$ 9 my face &
turn$ my nose :ite4 ,"o ( ^! "ds1 ,i'll h ! honor ( meet+ ! h1d (! family4
,he's b.d 6be a t\< old ba/>d40 ,! w9d respond$ 9 a colossal bla/ t la/$
s"eal m9utes1 & my tir$ bra9 wasn't sure :e!r ! w9d 0 giv+ me all x _h or
:e!r ? 0 j a t9y ta/e ( xs fury4

,0! f\r? "d at ,pi$ras ,blancas1 ! w9d _h n abat$4 ,we 7 \ ( food & fuel4
8,! late/ we c l1ve =! summit is noon4 ,we'll wait until !n40

,b :5 ! w1!r _h n *ang$ & ,*ris made ! deci.n 6try1 we all knew ! attempt
wd only s]ve 6satisfy \r ne$ 6le>n f/h& ! m.ta9's limit.s p[]4 ,?ree h\rs
lat]1 we /um#d 96,9dep5d5cia at tw5ty-"o ?\s& feet1 a3laim$ z ! hi<e/
man-made /ructure 9 ! _w4 ,9 r1l;y x 0 ! remnants (a rock wall protrud+ f a
deep pile ( sn[4 ,we hunk]$ 2h x4 ,"o hundr$ feet abv me x s.d$ l a ?\s&
frei<t tra9s or a fleet ( jets tak+ (f4 ,protect$ 0f\r lay]s ( fleece &a
,,gore-tex %ell1 ,i 0 / cold4 ,my f+]s 7 los+ s5s,n "? my mitt5s4 8,x's
ov]10 ,*ris yell$4 ,he 0 only a few feet away b ,i cd b>ely he> hm4 ,8 ^ws
seem$ 6be swept away z soon z !y left 8 m\?4 8,abv u is an expos$ ridge4
,x's ! w9die/ "p (! m.ta94 ,"!'s no way4 ,x wd 2 suicide40 ,we all
reluctantly agre$4 ,i respect$ ,*ris's abil;y 6"k :5 we 7 \tmat*$4 ,i 0
9t5sely sad1 b al reliev$ 2c ,i wdn't h 6face ! h1d (! family4 ,i /ood fac+
! d1f5+ s.d "o la/ "t1 / feel+ a remnant ( my desire 6g on1 & z if 6answ]
my urge1 ! w9d gu/$ h>d ag/ me1 alm knock+ me (f my feet4 8,next ye>10 ,i
sd1 & my he>t felt h1vy & cold z ,i =c$ my body 6turn >.d t[>d camp4 ,lat]
9 ! t5t1 ! 4appo9t;t (! climb swept ov] me l a riv] ( scree4 ,i escap$
\tside1 pret5d+ 6organize my pack1 s ,jeff & ,hans wdn't see ! te>s t 7
spill+ \ 9 scor*+ waves4 ,jeff foll[$ me \ 96! :ipp+ w9d4 8,:5 y try big
?+s10 he sd1 8y gotta expect 6fail "s"ts40 ,! ?"\ 0 s simple1 yet1 at !
same "t1 prof.d1 & ,i knew he 0 "r4 ,8 ^ws took ! $ge (f my sad;s & gave my
bra9 "s?+ 6hang on 6"?\t ! l;g hike d[n4

,on ! tw5ty-two-mile hike \ f base camp1 ,hans & ,i t1m$ up4 ,he hik$ 9
front %ak+ a box ( ,tic ,tacs & us+ 8 [n special l+o 6guide me4 8,iceb]g0
m1nt an immova# rock 9 ! trail4 8,ankle burn]s0 m1nt a s]ies ( iceb]gs4
8,roll]s0 m1nt loose rocks t cd turn "ufoot4 ,cle>ly bor$1 ,hans w5t a ll
ov]bo>d4 8,iceb]g protrud+ six 9*es at a ?irty-degree angle 6! "r1 left $ge
( trail4 ,roll]s1 scatt]$ at ei<t 9* 9t]vals1 mov+ f left 6"r1 v>y+ sizes f
?ree 6sev5 9*es4 ,a -b9,n ( ankle burn]s & roll]s1 an av]age ( two 6?ree
ankle burn]s 6e roll]1 culm9at+ 9 "o l>ge iceb]g1 flat top1 ris+ at a
tw5ty-degree angle40 ,! 9=m,n 0 m ?an ,i ne$$ 6func;n1 b ,i ?9k ,hans 0
try+ 6give me a ta/e ( si<t4 ,= ?ree h\rs ,hans _h be5 happily sp\t+ 9=m,n4
,i wond]$ :5 he _h "t 6br1!4 ,ne>+ ! trailh1d1 ,hans 2came bor$ ) ? game4
8,let's swit*10 he sd4 8,i'll take ! hik+ /icks & y take ! ,tic ,tacs40 ,at
! trailh1d1 ! rang]s 7 ga!r$ 9 a l>ge t5t4 ,!y _h he>d ab ! bl hik] :o wd 2
>riv+ any m9ute4 ,z we >riv$1 ,i 0 walk+ 9 front ( ,hans1 my feet brac$ =
any r&om t]ra94 ,i %ook ! ,tic ,tacs 9 l>ge sweep+ move;ts1 /opp+ p]iodic,y
6scr1m dramatic,y1 8,ov] "h1 ? way4 ,big /ep ov] a ll gully40 ,i only knew
ab ! gully 2c a few mo;ts e>li] ,i _h /epp$ 9 x myf4 ,i hop$ ! rang]s
didn't notice4 ,hans /um#d al;g 2h me1 butt \1 h1d bo2$ =w>d1 sw++ ! hik+
poles wildly 9 front ( hm4 ,"s"ts he wd /op z if he _h lo/ track ( my voice
& 2g9 rotat+ 8 h1d & prob+ "o pole t5tatively 9 front ( hm4 8,? way1 -e on1
y c d x4 ,only a few m feet40 ,i'd %ake ! ,tic ,tacs l\dly4 ,:5 we ne>$ !
rang]s' t5t1 ,hans :isp]$1 8,x's go+ 6be a delicate maneuv] 2t two p>k$
jeeps4 ,don't bl[ x40 ,tic ,tacs eld hi< ov] my h1d1 %ak+ 9 a salsa b1t1 my
knee bang$ ag/ ! jeep door4 8,left a ll10 ,hans b>k$1 try+ n 6move 8 lips4
,we 7 bo? lau<+ z we ?"\ (! rang]s wat*+ 9 awkw>d sil;e ! two gr+os1 !
guide alm z clumsy z ! bl man he 0 suppos$ 6be l1d+4

,pass+ ! rang]s1 ,i pick$ up a rock (f ! side (! trail & squeez$ x ti<tly 9
my h&4 8,maybe ,i'll d ? ="e40