#ae
,mov+ ,"? ,d>k;s

,a week af return+ home f ,africa1 ,sam1 ,jeff1 & ,i drove 96,yosemite
,valley4 ,we /opp$ at ,el ,cap ,m1d[s1 a l>ge field at ! base (! imm5se
rock face ( ,el ,capitan4 ,i cd he> ! e*o (! t[]+ granite slab loom+ abv4
,xs solid bulk block$ \ ! op5 s.d ( sky4 ,hans1 \r climb+ l1d] &! fa/e/
climb] 9 ! _w1 /ood next 6me trail+ my f+] sl[ly up ,! ,nose r\te1 #c1cjj
feet &! 8pr\de/ l9e0 up ,el ,cap4 8,! bottom is a giant pr[1 slop+ up l !
bridge (a nose4 ,x feels v]tical :5 y're climb+ x1 b x's only sev5ty or
ei<ty degrees4 ,!n1 "!'s a /ell> crack runn+ up ?ree hundr$ feet or s4 ,t's
! ,/ove ,legs4 ,p]fect crack = y 6l1d4 ,j r1* up1 feel ! crack1 & pull up4
,x'll 2 radical4 ,f "!1 we've gotta trav]se >.d a corn]4 ,y're go+ 6love x4
,! l1d]1 :o w 2 me1 ( c\rse1 climbs up & sets an an*or4 ,!n1 he climbs back
d[n & sw+s >.d ! corn] 6": ! r\te 3t9ues4 ,t's "o (! p]ks ( 2+ ! l1d]2 ,i
get ! k+ sw+4 ,halfway up is ,! ,grt ,ro(1 a hundr$-foot bulge on ! face4
,x's b>ely visi# f "h1 b :5 y're hang+ "un1? x1 y'll "k x's "!4 ,!n1 y get
6,boot ,flake1 !n ,texas ,flake1 & !n ,pancake ,flake4 ,f "!1 x's all
ov]hang+ until ! top40 ,=! la/ fifte5 m9utes ,hans _h be5 lift+ my >m1 &) 8
p[];l h&1 dra7+ my po9t+ f+] back & =? up ! #c1cjj-foot face4 ,:5 ,i 0 f9,y
a# 6drop my >m 6my side1 ,i gave x a secret %ake1 try+ 6cle> ! burn 9 my
%\ld] muscle4

,mon?s e>li]1 ,hans's new-wave climb+ "pn]1 ,/eve ,s*neid]1 _h be5 giv+ a
slide %[ 9 ,phoenix ab ,hans & 8 radical spe$ asc5ts ( valley classics4 ,_!
=emo/ a*ieve;t 0 captur+ ?ree 3secutive spe$ asc5ts ( ,el ,cap summits1
ei<t ?\s& feet ( v]tical climb+ 9 tw5ty-sev5 h\rs4 ,i _h approa*$ ,/eve af
! %[4 8,i've he>d ( y10 he sd1 8 valley-boy a35t l\d & cle>4 8,call me
,%ipoopi4 ,i did ,d5ali a mon? 2f y4 ,:5 ,i f.d \ a bl dude smok$ ! same
r\te1 ,i 0 %am$4 ,n[1 ,i h 6g d "s?+ ra4]40 ,i ask$ hm =a tip on a
tru/wor?y climb] :o mi<t 2 9t]e/$ 9 l1d+ u up ,! ,nose on a second ,am]ican
,f.d,n =! ,bl climb+ project4 ,we ?"\ he mi<t volunte] hmf1 b 9/1d1 )\t
hesit,n1 he volunte]$ 8 bu4y ,hans4

,/&+ "u ,el ,capitan1 ,i felt a ll li<t-h1d$ 6"k t 9 "o mon?1 ,sam1 ,jeff1
,hans1 & ,i wd all 2 ?\s&s ( feet up1 susp5d$ f ll metal an*ors w$g$ 9 t9y
cracks4 ,i _h orig9,y -mitt$ 6? climb :5 "! seem$ only a h9t ( possibil;y4
,i _h climb$ five-hundr$-foot rock faces 9 a "d1 b ,el ,capitan1 ! /&>d 0:
all o!r rock climbs >e m1sur$1 0 a huge /ret*4 ,my 9n] voice told me x 0
possi#1 b h[ wd ,i "k if ? voice 0 truly l1d+ me t[>d my de/9y or t[>d
4a/]8 ,i _h j f9i%$ a book on ,himalayan climb+ 9 : a man 9 ! #aibj's rcvd
a vi.n f ,god1 -m&+ hm 6climb ,m.t ,"ee/4 ,6demon/rate ! p[] ( 8 fai?1 !
man decid$ 6climb ,"ee/ 9 8 loaf]s4 ,a ll abv base camp1 he su6]$ fro/bite
& _h 6be rescu$ (f ! m.ta94 ,i knew "! 7 ^? :o ?"\ a bl p]son try+ 6climb
,el ,capitan 0 z crazy z try+ 6climb ,"ee/ 9 a pair ( loaf]s4 ,maybe ,i 0
simply guilty ( dr1m+ 2y my abil;y4 ,"s"ts my d\bt -pletely fill$ me up1 b
amid/ ^! feel+s em]g$ a m p[];l surge ( hope1 fl[+ \ "? my f+]tips1 jo9+ me
6? place1 6! ja7$ fields ( talus &! sunbak$ granite4 ,9 ? place ,i knew t
my hope wd smack up ag/ ! cold blunt;s ( r1l;y4 ,i knew ,i _h a l;g way 6g1
b if a way exi/$1 ,i wd f9d x4

,t afn we _h a "py 6*ri/5 \r upcom+ adv5ture4 ,hans 9vit$ "s ( 8 climb+
frs1 "o ( :om 0 ,w>r5 ,h>d+1 a liv+ leg5d 9 ,yosemite climb+ hi/ory4
,?irty-"o ye>s ago1 ,h>d+ _h be5 a wiry1 5]getic road surveyor ) dr1ms s
extreme1 he 0 emb>rass$ 6admit !m 6any"o4 ,9 ! gold5 age ( ,yosemite
climb+1 he _h put up ! h>de/ r\tes 9 ! _w3 ,! ,l1n+ ,t[]1 ,dawn ,wall1 &
f9,y1 ! culm9,n ( 8 climb+ c>e]1 ,! ,nose on ,el ,capitan4 ,-plet+ ? r\te
_h 3sum$ a ye> ( 8 life1 &! ultimate /ory 0 splatt]$ all ov] ! pages (
.,life magaz9e4

,sam & ,i pick$ hm up 9 a valley p>k+ lot 6br+ hm back 6\r cab94 8,j let me
p>k1 & ,i'll 2 "r ) y10 he sd1 8 voice r++ \ l ! typical gr&pa4

8,s1 :at's he look l80 ,i ask$ ,sam :5 we 7 al"o4 8,is he a badass8 ,does
he h =e>ms ( /eel80

,sam hesitat$1 8,well1 put x ? way1 he's ag$ a ll 9 ?irty-"o ye>s1 b ,i'm
sure "!'s / a tig] rag+ "u t be] gut40

,lat]1 on ! por* ( \r cab91 "ey"o ga!r$ >.d hm1 be]s 9 h&1 6li/5 6hm sp9
tales ( leg5d>y f1ts >.d ! valley4 ,6a climb]1 x 0 bett] ?an li/5+ 6,neil
,>m/r;g describe ! ,apollo mis.n4 ,i 9/antly lik$ ,w>r5's self-e6ac+ mann]4
8,n"e cd free climb m ?an a five-ei<t10 he sd pr\dly1 8b put me on an aid
la4]1 & ,i cd get by4 ,on ,! ,l1n+ ,t[]1 a ba%y0--a ?9 piece ( ge>--8popp$
\ (! crack ) me atta*$4 ,! fall broke my nose & crack$ a few ribs4 ,x 0 a
fanta/ic excuse 6give up & g h a be]4 ,pro#m 0 t ! b>t5d] wdn't s]ve me4
,he kept />+ at my swoll5 face & tell+ me 6g 6! hospital4

8,on ,dawn ,wall1 "s a3us$ me ( drill+ too _m bolts4 ,"!'s a v obvi\s
r1son10 he sd1 /&+ up & putt+ my h& on 8 h1d1 8,i'm only a ll guy ) %ort
/u2y >ms4 ,! only place ,i "e drill$ an extra bolt 0 "u ,! ,grt ,ro(4 ,i 0
hang+ f "o t ,i _h j drill$4 ,i 0 fifte5 hundr$ feet abv ! valley floor &
look$ d[n at all t air & immly drill$ ano!r "o = gd m1sure4 ,]ik1 y'll feel
t bolt :5 y're up "!4 ,x's probably a ll ru/y n[1 b s am ,i40 ,he lau<$ a
deep belly lau<4

8,:at ab ! ,/ove ,legs crack80 ,i ask$4 8,h[ did x get xs "n80

8,well1 back !n10 he sd1 8y didn't h all ? new-fangl$ ge>4 ,we _h pitons t
,i =g$ 9 my base;t1 b ! ,/ove ,legs crack 0 s wide1 x /ump$ u =a :ile4 ,"o
"d1 ,i 0 pass+ "? a junky>d & came acr ? old potbelli$ /ove4 ,x gave me an
idea4 ,i saw$ (f ! legs & drill$ holes 9 ! 5ds4 ,^? legs fit 9 t crack
bett] ?an any ( u cd h hop$40

8,:at got y 9t]e/$ 9 climb+80 ,jeff ask$4

8,isn't x obvi\s 0look+ at ? devili% face80 he retort$4 8,fame1 =tune1
glory1 & wom54 ,didn't get m* (! latt]1 ?\<40

8,:y n80 ,jeff ask$1 9t]e/$ 9 any subject t 3c]n$ a lack ( wom54

8,too busy climb+10 he repli$4

,on ! drive back 6his c>1 ,w>r5 sd 6me1 8,i've gotta h& x 6y1 climb+ t
mon/] )\t see+ :at y're do+4 ,y "k :at ,i'd d1 if ,i w5t bl80

8,:at80 ,i ask$4

8,no?9'60 he *uckl$1 8,absolutely no?+4 ,i'd f9,y h ! excuse t ,i've alw
be5 look+ =1 62come ! "ua*iev] ,i 0 m1nt 6be40 ,!n he erupt$ 96a ro>+ lau<
t 2gan deep 9side 8 belly & spr1d \tw>d4 ,x la/$ =a solid m9ute & x />t$
,sam & me lau<+ ) hm4

,on \r second "d 9 ! valley1 we jump$ "r 96\r tra9+4 8,"!'s no?+ bett] =a
hangov] ?an an ov]hang10 ,sam sd1 hold+ 8 h1d t5d]ly 9 8 h&s4 ,we />t$ )a
two-pit* climb1 a pit* 2+ ab #aej feet l;g1 or ab ! l5g? (a climb+ rope4 ,!
f/ 3si/$ (a l;g1 f+]-wid? crack1 ! rock wall >.d x1 l mo/ climbs 9 !
valley1 poli%$ & f1ture.s4 ,! te*nique is 6jam yr two h&s & "o foot 96!
crack & torque !m s !y /ick fa/4 ,!n y /& up on yr tortur$ foot & jam yr
o!r foot hi<] 9 ! crack4 ,m* ( yr wei<t is hang+ f yr fi/s /u6$ 9side !
crevasse1 or ! bulgy knobs ( yr f+]s t get w$g$ 2t granite lips4 ,9 a twi/$
way1 crack climb+ is a p]fect sport =a bl p]son2 ,i cd feel my way 0simply
runn+ my h& up ! crack until x fell 96place4 ,no hi45 holds lurk$ j \ ( my
r1*4 ,"! 7 no 9*-wide pockets = my desp]ate toes 6miss4

,! next pit* 9volv$ a layback4 ,i _h 6l1n way back on ! rope ) my h&s lock$
>.d a granite flake & flatt5 my feet ag/ ! poli%$ face1 us+ ! oppos+ =ces
6sl[ly walk my body up ! rock4 ,! pull+ =ce ( my >ms kept my feet pu%+ ag/
! rock4 ,"s"ts my >ms wd br+ my upp] body too hi<1 & my feet wd slide \ f
"u me1 slamm+ my body 96! rock4 8,ba%$ elb[s & knees m1n y're climb+ h>d10
,hans sd4

8,!y're w> w.ds10 ,jeff a4$4

,! next r\te 0 a ?ree-hundr$-foot climb call$ ,bi%op's ,t]race4 ,we 7 s
excit$ 6be climb+ on ! mo/ classic rock climbs 9 ! _w t ,i 2gan climb+ fa/1
us+ my >ms & legs 6catapult my body up ! face 9 qk bur/s ( move;t4 8,? spe$
climb+ /uff is easy10 ,i boa/$ 6,hans1 :o 0 2lay+ me f ! top1 8,i'm gonna
b1t yr ,el ,cap record40 ,my cocky /ate;ts m/ h ang]$ ! climb+ gods1 2c1
seconds lat]1 ,i sprung up onto a small l$ge &1 bolt+ up"r1 slamm$ my face
96a protrud+ rock4 ,my nose 0 %r$d$ & bloody & felt l x _h be5 sma%$ flat
ag/ my face4 ,i pray$ t ,hans _hn't se5 ! culm9,n ( my brief attempt at
spe$ climb+4 ,i kept quiet until ! top1 "w+ 6avoid imag9>y bulges ( rock
loom+ ov]h1d & try+ 6ignore my squa%$ nose t 0 s5d+ jolts ( pa9 "? my face4
,:5 ,i r1*$ ,hans1 he took me (f 2lay z ,i an*or$ in4 8,! next sec;n is a
l;g n>r[ trav]se acr a slop$ l$ge10 ,hans expla9$4 8,if y fall1 y'll take a
major sw+1 s y may want 6take x sl[ & protect :at's left ( yr nose1 spe$
climb]40

,at ! 5d ( my f/ full "d ( climb+ 9 ! valley1 my >ms & legs felt limp1 l an
old ru2] b& t _h lo/ xs /ret*4 ,! sk9 on my h&s resem#d raw hamburg] m1t1 &
my feet felt l a hot iron _h press$ !m4 ,my lips 7 split1 my tee? 7 sme>$ )
blood1 &a qu>t]-siz$ scab decorat$ ! mi4le ( my scalp4 ,n 6m5;n my swoll5
nose1 scrap$ elb[s & knees1 & ba%$ %9s4 ,x _h be5 a p]fect "d ( climb+4

,! next "d ,hans took me 6a practice >ea call$ ,cookie ,cliff 6t1* me h[
6aid climb4 ,yosemite rock faces 7 c>v$ 0mov+ glaci]s1 l1v+ 9 _! wake
p]fectly su/a9$ v]tical cracks s void ( f1tures1 ev5 excep;nal climb]s _c
move up ! rock )! sole p[] ( _! >ms & legs4 ,"! >e simply no holds 6/& on &
hang f1 s a climb] uses a te*nique call$ aid climb+ 9 : he w$ges a small
metal rectangle call$ a /opp] or a spr+-load$ camm+ device ) s]rat$ $ges
96a v]tical crack1 atta*es a ?ree-foot nylon la4] 6x1 & !n /&s up on !
hi<e/ rung 9 ord] 6place ano!r piece ( protec;n f>!r up4 ,once ! next piece
is in1 he clips 8 second la4] 6x & g+]ly /eps onto ! bottom rung1 "w+ 8 way
6! top4 ,x's a sl[ & t$i\s process1 b x wd get u ov] sec;ns t wdn't 8g
free40

,! approa* 6,cookie ,cliff 0 ov] an old =e/ry road t _h be5 de/roy$ 0a
l&slide & 0 n"e repair$4 ,x 0 n[ a jum#d b\ld] field2 ,i 0 on my butt m ?an
on my feet4 ,! _w's spe$ climb+ *ampion got a kick \ ( gett+ me 6! base
fa/] ?an any"o else _h 2f4 ,he call$ x a 8bl spe$ approa*40

8,e6ici5cy's my ?+4 ,y'll le>n10 he w>n$4 8,,ok1 on yr butt & slide4
,?ree-foot drop at ! 5d10 he'd say4 8,left h& on yr trekk+ pole1 "r h& ag/
? b\ld]4 ,,ok1 d[n-climb1 fat jug--"o foot "u yr left h&1 l$ge two &a half
feet 2l yr "r foot40 ,:5 ! trail 0 smoo!r ,hans wd walk 9 front ( me click+
tgr two c>ab9]s1 or two /icks or rocks1 :at"e 0 h&y4 ,i'd foll[ ! s.d4 ,on
? "d1 af mak+ x "? ! b\ld] field1 he sd1 8,feel ?40 ,he put a smoo?
metallic rectangle 9 my h&1 & ,i cd feel a t9y r[ ( squ>e holes4 8,i alm
=got ab ?4 ,x's way bett] ?an click+ 'b9]s40 ,! rectangle 0 a h>monica4
,hans _h f.d x e>li]1 hi45 away 9 an old *e/ full ( *ildhood junk &1 =! re/
(! way1 he /um#d "? ! classics3 8,r[1 ,r[1 ,r[ ,yr ,boat10 8,! ,f>m] 9 !
,dell10 & 8 gr& f9ale1 a r5di;n ( 8,?ree ,bl ,mice40 ,hans ?"\ ? la/ s;g 0
a /roke ( -ic g5ius 2c he kept /opp+ 6s+ a few v]ses & *uckle4 ,i cdn't
help *uckl+ too4

,at ! base ( ,cookie ,cliff1 we /ood 9 front (a p]fectly su/a9$ v]tical
ov]hang+ crack4 ,j 2f ,i />t$ climb+1 ,hans sd1 8,y'll smoke 6! top ) me
"h40 ,3nect$ 6a fix$ rope an*or$ 96! top *a91 ,hans zipp$ al;g 2s me ) 8
asc5d]s1 exam9+ ea* ( my ge> place;ts4 ,i r1*$ up1 feel+ ! crack's wid? &
m1sur+ ! gap ) my f+]4 ,i ne$$ 6mat* x )a simil>-siz$ piece ( ge> hang+ f
my h>;s4 ,i _h le>n$ 6organize ! _m k9ds ( metal ge> t climb]s use 6protect
!mvs3 /opp]s1 smalle/ 6bi7e/1 on my "r ge> loop4 ,cams1 smalle/ 6bi7e/1 on
my left loop1 & ,,tcu's & ali5s 9 ! back loops4 ,i _h exhau/$ myf at f/
03/antly fumbl+ "? ! racks ( ge> & awkw>dly br++ h1vy metal pieces up 96!
crack until ,i f.d ! "r size4 8,e6ici5cy is "ey?+10 ,hans tau<t4 8,especi,y
= y40 ,he m1nt t z a result ( 2+ bl1 climb+ 5tail$ a ll extra "w on my "p4
,al? ,i tri$ n 6h>p on my di6iculties1 ,i did h 6admit he 0 "r4 ,a si<t$
p]son1 :ile hang+ f a piece1 c gl.e up ! crack1 mov+ no?+ b 8 eyeballs1
spot ! next suita# place;t1 & af gra2+ ! "r piece1 /& up & jam x in4 ,s9ce
,i cdn't gl.e up1 ,i _h 6/& up on my la4]1 scan ! crack ) my h&1 drop back
d[n 6f9d ! "r piece & !n /& up ag 6place x1 hop+ x 0 ! "r size4 ,/&+ up 9 !
top loop (a flimsy nylon la4]1 an ov]hang+ rock press+ 96my face1 )! w9d &
my trembl+ leg rock+ ! la4] f side 6side1 0 3sid]ably m /r5u\s ?an m.t+ a
/epla4]4 ,2f ,i'd /& up1 ,i'd clip a piece ( we2+ f my h>;s 6! piece ( ge>
9 ! crack s ,i cd /rai<t5 my leg & l1n back1 keep+ my h&s free = plac+ !
next ge>4 ,/&+ up "o extra "t doesn't seem l a big d1l1 b on a
two-hundr$-foot pit*1 x translates 6ov] sixty extra moves1 & on
?ree-?\s&-foot ,el ,cap1 x translates 6m ?an ,i wd want 6c.t4


,z ,i mov$ up ! crack1 ,hans coa*$1 8,too big4 ,try a numb] two10 or 8,t
won't hold4 ,feel h[ x's ov]ext5d$10 or my favorite1 8,bomb]6 ,don't ev5
bo!r *eck+ x1 cdn't h plac$ x bett] myf40 ,at f/ ,i n]v\sly *eck$ & re*eck$
! ll piece ( metal1 slid+ x up & d[n1 back & =? 9 ! crack4 ,!n ,i wd
t5tatively put wei<t on ! la4]1 z if ,i 7 tak+ a /ep 96a m9efield4 8,r1* 9
"!10 ,hans sd1 8 cool voice hav+ a calm+ e6ect4 8,feel h[ all six tee? >e
bit+ ! rock4 ,y cd hang a truck (f t4 ,n[1 /& up4 ,x'll hold40 ,my f+]s
2liev$ hm1 b if he 7 wr;g & x didn't hold1 ,i knew ! 3sequ;es 7 sev]e4

,mon?s 2f1 :ile le>n+ 6aid climb on hundr$-foot basalt cracks \tside (
,flag/aff1 ^? 3sequ;es 7 drill$ 96me ="e4 ,sam l$ ! crack1 l1v+ ! 8pro0 9 =
me 6use4 8,x'll 2 gd practice10 he sd4 8,j l1d on up & clip 96!m4 ,practice
3nect+ yr la4] & /&+ up40 ,s1 ,i "w$ my way up ! crack1 clipp+1 /&+1 &
r1*+4 ,ab fifty feet up1 ,i clipp$ 9 my la4] & /ood up4 ,l1n+ back1 ,i he>d
a qk1 popp+ noise z ! pro broke free f ! crack4 ,!n ,i 0 wei<t.s1 tumbl+
ov] backw>ds1 my %ock$ m9d b>ely regi/]+ :at 0 happ5+4 ,! next pro ripp$
free f ! face & ag ! ?ird4 ,!n my feet slapp$ ! gr.d1 b ! impact 0
surpris+ly g5tle1 z if ,i _h fall5 back only a few feet4 ,immly1 ,i 0
boom]ang+ up )! dynamic spr+ (! rope4 ,! la/ piece ( protec;n _h held4
,?ank ,god4

,n[1 halfway up ,cookie ,cliff1 ,i he>d ,hans say+1 8,tru/ x10 & al? my
bra9 a3ept$ ?1 my he>t / p.d$ ) t memory (a su45 metal pop &! s5s,n (
wei<t.s;s z ,i lo/ 3tact )! rock4 ,/1 ,i've n"e lo/ t\* )! sob] k t my life
dep5d$ on my capabil;y2 on h[ well my f+]s plac$ a small piece ( metal ge>
96a crack4 ,i n"e =got t my life re/s 9 my [n h&s4 ,! feel+ is bo? p[];l &
t]rify+4

,) "o (! _w's be/ climb]s look+ on1 a climb] :o _h surviv$ ! valley's mo/
dang]\s asc5ts1 ,i =c$ myf 6tru/4 8,kill] place;t4 ,g = x10 he urg$ me on4
,:5 ,i r1*$ ! top & clipp$ 96! an*or *a91 ,hans gl.ed at 8 wat*4 8,n bad1
fifty-sev5 m9utes10 he sd4 8,next "t we'll d x 9 fifty40

,! next tra9+ 0 n[ 6d x al"o1 s ,jeff & ,i h1d$ 6! base (! ,sala!' ,wall1 a
classic r\te t rivals ,! ,nose 9 l5g? & di6iculty4 ,! f/ #aej feet is a
classic aid climb 9 ! valley1 j a zigzag ( v>i\s-siz$ cracks runn+ up !
smoo? granite face4 ,un=tunately x 0 gett+ d>k 0! "t x 0 my turn 6l1d1 b
,jeff sd1 8,d>k;s doesn't bo!r me1 & ,i "k x doesn't bo!r y40 ,l1d+ on !
,sala!' 0 tricky1 2c 6get 6! base (! aid-climb+ por;n1 we _h 6scram# up a
fifty-degree slope 6a small l$ge & !n trav]se f> 6! "r until ! l$ge n>r[$
96a toehold4 ,! crack ran up f ? po9t1 s if my f/ piece _h popp$ z ,i /ood
up on ! la4]1 ,i 0 look+ at a =ty-foot fall or1 9 climb+ l+o1 a =ty-foot
crat]4 ,i set ! f/ piece ( pro &) "o foot press$ a7ressively 96! foothold1
te/$ ! la4] ) my o!r4 ,my leg wei<t+ ! la4] felt l x 0 fill$ ) molt5 l1d &
t /&+ up on x wd surely snap ! fragile metal piece l dry k9dl+1 p]h ev5 rip
"? ! flimsy fabric la4]4 ,i 0 3v9c$ ,i'd he> ! swift pop ( metal z my h1vy
l1d5 body spiral$ away4 8,h[ w ,i l1d on ,! ,nose :5 x -es "t8 ,w any?+ 2
di6]5t80 ,i ask$ myf4 8,i c't back d[n4 ,i c only g =w>d10 ,i told myf
rep1t$ly1 & af a few m9utes1 ! repeti;n seem$ 6calm my m9d4 ,f9,y ,i back$
up ! "o piece ) two m & 3nect$ ! la4] 6all ?ree4 ,at l1/ "o piece wd hold4
,! law ( av]ages 0 9 my favor1 b / t f/ -mitt+ /ep 0 agoniz+4 ,z ,i /epp$
up ! rungs 6get a hi<] place;t1 ,i kept my h&s buri$ 9 ! crack1 act+ z a
f\r?1 & ev5 a fif? an*or po9t4 ,i let \ a few %all[ br1?s4 ,on ! p]iph]y (
my 3c5tr,n1 ,i he>d ,jeff's voice imitat+ me ) ll mock+ cries4

,z ,i got hi<]1 l1v+ m pieces ( ge> atta*$ 6! rope 2l me1 ,i ga9$ m 3fid;e4
,ab ei<ty feet up1 ! crack pet]$ \ & ,i l1n$ left & "r1 scann+ = ano!r
hold4 ,!n ,i f.d x1 a pap]-clip-wide s1m1 ab ?ree feet up & f\r feet 6!
left4 ,i _h 6acrobatic,y l1n & /ret* my body 6ev5 r1* x4 ,) "o foot p]*$ on
! top rung1 ,i walk$ my o!r foot f> \ onto ! face & jamm$ a f+] 96a %all[
pocket4 ,) my free h& ,i r1*$ back1 f9d+ ! rack ( ?9 metal nuts4 ,my body 0
l1n+ alm horizont,y z ,i pu%$ v>i\s sizes ag/ ! surface (! s1m1 b n"o fit4
,!n ,i select$ ! smalle/ "o4 ,x slid 9 easily & cau<t at ! bottom (! s1m4
,:5 ,i swung ov] & /ood up on x1 ,i tri$ 6block 4tract+ ?"\s f my m9d1 !
=emo/ 2+ t n9ety feet up on a rock face1 my body wei<t 0 2+ held 0a piece (
metal no l;g] ?an ! tip ( my p9kie &! wid? (a cr$it c>d4 ,t5 feet hi<]1 !
crack wid5$ & ,i jamm$ 9 a numb] two cam1 a piece half ! size ( my fi/4 ,:5
,i r1*$ in1 ,i f.d t n all ! tee? 7 cat*+1 & ,i tri$ 6pull x \1 b x 0 /uck4
,i r1son$1 if x didn't budge :5 ,i yank$ on x1 !n x wdn't budge :5 ,i /ood
on x4 ,s1 3v9c$1 ,i /ood up4 ,murphy's ,law w5t 96full =ce1 2c ! piece
immly %ot \4 ,a s]ies ( qk %all[ grunts escap$ f my m\? z ,i sway$
prec>i\sly 6! left1 my >ms wildly slapp+ ! wall4 ,i didn't ev5 notice at f/
! h1vy piece ( metal t _h sma%$ directly 96my left eyeball4 ,luckily my "r
foot _h n yet left ! l[] la4]1 & ,i recov]$ my bal.e4 ,lat] ,i jok$ 6,sam &
,jeff t if ,i _hn't alr _h a glass left eye1 ,i mi<t n[ h _h 6get "o4

,re/+ on a "o-9* l$ge t at ? po9t seem$ z wide z a sidewalk1 ,i /ood wip+ !
blood f my numb eyelid4 ,i ran my f+] ov] ! h>d glassy surface ( my eyeball
6see if x _h crack$4 ,my skull / vibrat$ f ! jolt4 ,z ,i rega9$ aw>e;s ( my
surr.d+s1 ,i surmis$ t ,i _h t5 or fifte5 feet 6g4 8,r1* "r40 ,jeff's fa9t
yell rose up f ! gr.d4 ,i r1*$ "r & my h& ran acr ! rap r+s t 7 drill$ 96!
rocks4 ,i clipp$ 9 my daisy *a9 &! h1vy feel+ 0 immly replac$ ) relief4 ,i
_h l$ #aej feet 9 j "u f\r h\rs4 ,! "t 0 pa9;lly sl[1 pa!tic,y sl[1 b at
l1/ x 0 a />t4

,r1*+ ! gr.d at elev5 p4m41 ,i 0 met 0,jeff's grave ^ws4 ,!y bur/ \ z if he
_h be5 pond]+ ! ?"\ =a l;g :ile4 8,x's pit* black \4 ,"!'s no moon1 & ,i
=got my h1dlamp40 ,! hike \ 0 only tw5ty-five m9utes--t's if y w5t 0!
trail1 : 2gan a qu>t] mile d[n1 f a rocky scram#4

8,well1 :at *oice d we h80 ,i ask$4 8,bivy "h all ni<t1 : is \ (! "q1 or
fall (f a ?irty-foot b\ld] on ! scram# \80

8,i vote =! fall10 ,jeff repli$ grimly4 ,jeff %u6l$ al;g 9 front ( me1
/opp+ & />t+ z \r way met ) rep1t$ d1d 5ds4 ,ea* "t he tripp$ & /um#d ov]
rocks or fall5 limbs1 ,i cdn't help lau<+ 6myf4 ,i got a secret kick \ ( 8
su45 fits & />ts1 -b9$ ) 8 sc>$ ll gasps & "u-his-br1? curses4 ,abruptly
,jeff /opp$ 9 front ( me & gasp$1 8,i ?9k "!'s a v big drop-(f 9 front (
u40

8,h[ f> d[n80 ,i ask$4

8,maybe1 ?irty feet10 he guess$4 8,i c see ! tops ( trees at \r level40 ,i
knelt d[n & 9ve/igat$ ! drop-(f4 ,x slop$ d[n at a mod]ate angle & seem$
f1tur$ ) l>ge pockets & grooves4 8,i ?9k ,i see a cle>+ ov] "!4 ,x mi<t 2 a
trail1 b "!'s no way ,i'm climb+ d[n ? ?+ 9 ! d>k40 ,9 ! "d1 ,jeff's climb+
abil;y \tclass$ m9e1 b 9 ! d>k1 ! rules _h *ang$4 8,i'll climb 2l y10 ,i
sd1 8& ,i'll help y place yr feet40 ,jeff agre$ ) only a hesitant grunt4 ,i
d[n-climb$ 2l ,jeff1 hang+ /rai<t->m$ f a hold 0"o h& :ile ,i scrun*$ up my
body & r1*$ f> 2l my feet ) my o!r h&4 ,f9d+ a hold1 "o at a "t1 ,i g5tly
l[]$ my feet 96x4 ,:5 ,i 0 secure on ! rock1 ,i'd grab ,jeff's ankle & l[]
8 trembl+ foot onto a hold4 ,) ea* /ep d[n1 ,jeff made %all[ :imp]+ noises1
& ,i glee;lly mimick$ 8 voice f 2l4 ,sl[ly & c>e;lly1 we 9*$ \r way d[n1 &1
/&+ on ! gr.d 2l ! b\ld]1 ,i sd1 8,y'd make a wimpy bl guy40

,jeff took ! l1d ag1 & af half an h\r ( /umbl+ & %ov+ \rvs "? an imp5etra#
wall ( %rubs & tree bran*es1 ,i wait$ = hm 6be ! "o 64cov] t ? =tress (
v9es & bran*es didn't meet ! def9i;n (a trail4

,half jok+1 ,i blurt$ \1 8,jeff1 :y don't y let me take ov]80

8,be my gue/10 he repli$1 reliev$4 ,s1 ,i took ! l1d & pu%$ "? ! next
tangle ( %rubs4 ,x 0 a -plete /roke ( luck t 9 ano!r tw5ty feet1 ,i /epp$ f
! ?icket onto ! flat dirt (a trail1 b ,i n"e let ,jeff =get ! sli<tly
9flat$ tale (! h]oic bl man l1d+ 8 hope.sly lo/ climb+ "pn] \ (! wild];s4

,z ,i walk$ 9 front ( ,jeff1 ,i kept u on ! trail 0feel+ ! h>d-pack$ dirt
"u my feet1 v]sus ! sp;gy e>? & small bu%es al;g ! bord]4 ,"s"ts ! h>d-pack
wd su45ly 2come s(t1 & ,i'd /ep 96fall5 l1ves & ?9 tree bran*es4 ,!n r1liz+
,i 0 at a d1d 5d1 ,i'd backtrack1 /opp+ frequ5tly 6tap ! trail ) my heel &
scan my pole f bord] 6bord] until ,i felt ! trail op5 up & turn (f 9 :at ,i
suppos$ 6be ! "r direc;n4 ,i lau<$ n]v\sly 6?9k t ,i guid$ ,jeff1 a bett]
climb] ?an me1 b 9 pit* d>k;s1 ,i knew ,i 0 ! be/ p]son =! job1 & 63t9ue
6foll[ wd h m1nt %irk+ my responsibil;y z a "pn]4 ,z ,i /epp$ t5tatively
=w>d1 ,i tri$ 6feel 3fid5t1 b ! 3fid;e didn't -e natur,y4 ,i 0 unsure1 "q+
ea* /ep4 ,i _h alw presum$ t l1d]%ip came easily 6a *os5 few l ,jeff1 t p l
hm 7 born 6take -m&1 b n[ ,i wond]$ if ? presump;n 0 only a 3v5i5t excuse
on my "p4 ,jeff mi<t 2 z unc]ta9 6l1d me 0"d z ,i 0 6l1d hm 0ni<t4 ,p]h
l1d]%ip 0 n s m* a matt] ( raw tal5t1 z raw c\rage4 ,l1d+ 0 ! abil;y 6move
=w>d "? d>k;s t[>d ^? imm5se possibilities1 unse5 yet s5s$1 :ile o!rs all[$
! d>k;s 6p>alyze !m4

,soon we 2gan 6he> ! 4tant s.d ( c> 5g9es & knew we 7 ne>+ ! road4 ,i al
he>d a 4tant bu/le on ! trail4 8,"h -e "s h1dlamps10 ,jeff sd1 & two
climb]s em]g$1 h1d+ t[>d u4 ,!y 7 probably plann+ 6bivy at ! base (! wall =
an e>ly />t4 ,! f/ a/oni%$ climb] saw u mov+ sl[ly "? a ?ick blanket (
d>k;s1 & z we pass$1 he rem>k$ excit$ly1 8,y guys m/ h re,y grt vi.n40

8,tw5ty-tw5ty60 ,i repli$4


,! next "d \r plan 0 6get "s practice pull+ a haul bag up ! cliff4 ,on ,el
,cap we wd br+ twelve gallons ( wat]1 an >s5al ( metal ge>1 ra9 suits &
fleece1 food1 & sleep+ bags4 ,! :ole assort;t wd 2 /u6$ 96a deep ru2] tube
& wd wei< close 6#aej p.ds4 ,on ? "d ,jeff1 ,sam1 & ,i plann$ 6climb ?ree
pit*es up ,s]5;y ,crack1 gett+ practice haul+ ! 8pig10 bivy on a l$ge1 &
climb & haul ! la/ ?ree pit*es ! next morn+4 ,! air 0 alr /ifl+ly hot z we
hik$ up 6! base4 ,! r\te 0 fac+ s\?1 & :5 ,i t\*$ ! rock ) my f+]1 x felt l
! top ( an ov54 ,z we mov$ upw>d1 ! haul l9e kept gett+ 5tangl$ 9 ! climb+
rope4 ,\r an*ors 7 turn+ 96a jum# ( 9dist+ui%a# ropes1 c>ab9]s1 knots1
sl+s1 daisy *a9s1 asc5d]s1 & pulleys4 ,try+ 6sort x all \ "u ! oppressive
sun 0 prov+ fru/rat+4

,! f/ re/+ po9t 0 a hang+ 2lay (f "s old pitons4 ,) no l$ge 6p]* on1 \r
legs dangl$ & \r h>;ses cut 96\r sides4 ,i _h be5 hang+ mo;n.s = an h\r
:ile ,i 2lay$ ,sam1 & my feet 7 tot,y numb )! loss ( circul,n4 ,my black
ru2] climb+ %oes seem$ 6be attract+ ! sun's rays & !n *annel+ ! h1t 96my n[
scor*+ feet4 ,luckily we _h br"\ pl5ty ( wat]4 ,jeff unla%$ ! top (! haul
bag & 4appe>$ 96x1 8 body upside-d[n1 8 feet kick+ 9 ! air4 ,m9utes lat] he
em]g$ empty-h&$4 8,! wat] bottles >e buri$ "u a huge pile ( ge>10 he sd
4appo9t$ly4 ,i tri$ next b 0 met )! same pro#m4 ,\r ?ree-foot l5g? ( we2+
hold+ u 6! rock wdn't all[ u 6r1* ! bottom4 ,reluctantly we gave up & hung
sil5tly f ! an*ors4

,! w1!r 0 only gr[+ m oppressive z ! sun rose abv u4 ,climb+ ag1 my h&s 7 s
sw1ty !y kept popp+ \ (! crack1 alm s5d+ me on a 8:ipp]10 a viol5t1 sw++
fall4 ,f9,y af fi<t+ my way 6! top (! next pit*1 ,i 2gan 6feel sick4 ,my
h1d 0 sp9n+ & ,i 0 nause\s4 ,i scr1m$ d[n 6,jeff z he climb$ 2n me1 8,don't
let ? 9=m,n ?r[ (f yr climb+1 b "!'s a possibil;y ,i mi<t puke on y40 ,my
w>n+ 0 j ! excuse we ne$$ 6give x up4 ,we retr1t$1 dehydrat$ & deject$4
,lat] we he>d t ? 0 ! hotte/ "d (! ye>--ov] a hundr$ degrees1 & ,hans told
u1 8,oh1 y %d h ask$ me4 ,s]5;y ,crack's a w9t] r\te4 ,no "o tries x 9 !
summ]1 un.s y're 96saunas40 ,:5 we got d[n1 ,i :ipp$ (f my %oes4 ,!y 7
boil$ 6a p9k hue 9 my [n sw1t4 ,bli/]s 7 =m+ on my f+]tips4 ,sam l[]$ !
haul bag & z soon z x t\*$ ! gr.d1 ,jeff & ,i attack$ x1 ripp+ \ all ! ge>1
& f9,y r1*+ ! wat]4 ,we p\r$ x all ov] \r faces4 ,mo/ ( m9e fl[$ d[n my *9
onto my %irt4 8,hey1 save "s = me10 ,sam call$ f abv4 ,:5 he r1*$ ! gr.d1
we dump$ \r 9dividual bottles ov] \r h1ds1 & sil5tly 3curr$ t wat] n"e ta/$
or felt s gd4

,on ! hike d[n ,i kept tell+ myf t ea* "t we made dumb mistakes1 ^? 7
mistakes we wdn't make ag4 ,i hop$ t 0 true4 ,6d ,! ,nose1 we 7 go+ 6h
62come /r;g]1 sm>t]1 & m e6ici5t4

,"?\t ! summ]1 :5 ,hans wd pop 9 af sett+ ano!r spe$ record on a valley
r\te1 ,jeff wd p]si/5tly su7e/ t we d a big wall tgr 2f attempt+ ,! ,nose4
,a big wall is 3sid]$ any rock face t requires an ov]ni<t bivy 9 ord]
6climb x4 ,hans recomm5d$ ,! ,l1n+ ,t[] 2c x only took two "ds & wd 2 a gd
9troduc;n to 8ju7+0 up a rope1 haul+ wei<t1 & remov+ ge> 2h ! l1d]4 ,jeff
sd he r1d "s": t if y w]5't j a ll qu1sy 2f y did yr f/ big wall1 !n "! 0
"s?+ s]i\sly wr;g ) y4 ,i 0 glad 6"k t ,i 0 normal4

,af a two-h\r scram# ov] a brok5 talus field &a rop$ trav]se ov] a n>r[
l$ge ( loose dirt & scree1 we organiz$ \r ge> at ! base ( ,! ,l1n+ ,t[]4
,:5 ,i plac$ my h& on ! wall1 ,i immly "u/ood h[ ! r\te got ! "n1 ,l1n+
,t[]2 x ?ru/s =w>d f ! gr.d at a ?irty-degree angle4 ,we cd he> ! f> cries
( climb]s mov+ up ! face1 scr1m+ \ -m&s 6"o ano!r4 ,!n we he>d ! guttural
e*o (a climb] ne> ! top--fifte5 hundr$ feet abv1 yell+1 8,,rock60 ,! ^w
pi]c$ ! / air l a %>p blade4 ,all ( u 9/antly %runk d[n 96a ball1 try+
6squeeze \r bodies 96! l1/ possi# >ea4 ,! basketball-siz$ rock s.d$ l a
missile z x spiral$ fifte5 hundr$ feet & explod$ 9 ! talus field "r 2l u4
,x s5t a plume ( du/ ris+ f ": x hit4 ,n[ ,i knew h[ ! brok5 talus field _h
be5 =m$1 & 0 glad ,i didn't "k t until af ,i _h cross$ x4 8,we're
relatively safe 9 ? spot40 ,hans eas$ \r worry4 8,! rock's ov]hang m1ns t !
p climb+ at ! top >e at l1/ ?ree hundr$ feet 9 back ( u40

,af ,jeff l$ ! f/ pit*1 he ti$ ! rope 96a fix$ an*or4 ,! rope trail$ 2n hm
& 0 3nect$ 6! ov]hang+ rock 0ge> he _h plac$ 9 ! crack4 ,at ! bottom1 ,i
clipp$ 96! rope ) two me*anical devices call$ asc5d]s4 ,! devices slid up !
rope b =tunately wdn't slide d[n4 ,/&+ on ! gr.d ,i slid ! asc5d]s z hi< up
! rope z ,i cd r1*1 clipp$ my la4]s 6!m1 & /ood up4 ,! dynamic /ret* (!
rope dropp$ me back 6! gr.d4 ,0wei<t+ & unwei<t+ ea* la4]1 ,i slid !
asc5d]s up ! rope ) my h&s1 "o at a "t1 my body foll[+4 ,z ,i f.d my rhy?m1
,i f.d pl1sure 9 ju7+ ! rope1 ! feel+ ( my body 9 mo;n1 mov+ 9 p]fect rhy?m
up ! rock face4 ,i cd he> my br1?+1 ! zip (! asc5d]s z !y mov$ up ! rope1
my muscles fir+ 9 sequ;e4

,hi< up on ! sev5? pit*1 ! cliff jutt$ \ 96a =ty-foot ro(4 ,z ! second
climb]1 ,i 0 responsi# = 8cl1n+ ! pit*40 ,! rope on : ,i ju7$ pass$
3t9u\sly "? ! metal snapl9ks 3nect$ 6pieces ( ge> w$g$ 9 ! crack4 ,my job 0
6remove !m4 ,? 0 easi] sd ?an d"o1 2c ! wei<t ( my body pull+ \ f ! rock
kept ! pieces w$g$ 9 solidly4

,s ea* "t ,i'd h 6jam a h& 96! crack & d a qk pull-up4 ,^! few seconds (
wei<t.s;s 7 usu,y 5 = my o!r h& 6ji7le ! piece f xs grip4 ,directly 2n !
ro(1 ! rope pass$ "? a piece ( protec;n1 keep+ x p9n$ 9 ag/ ! rock4 ,abv !
piece1 x ran \ & up ! ov]hang+ rock4 ,i hung 2n ! piece =a few m9utes gett+
my n]ve up 6pull x4 8,:at's go+ on d[n "!80 ,hans call$ f abv4 ,i 0 \ (
si<t "u ! lip1 b he cd see t ! rope 0 n b\nc+ & ji7l+ 9 xs usual fa%ion4 ,i
took a colossal br1?1 jamm$ my f+]s 9 ! crack & pull$ myf ag/ ! rock4 ,my
o!r h& wri7l$ & "w$ ! piece ( protec;n until x 0 hang+ loose 9 my h&4 ,my
f+]s 9 ! crack 2gan 6slip1 s ,i let ! 9evita# happ54 ,i l1n$ back at f/
until ! rope 0 taut1 !n let ! rope sw+ me \ & up l a kid on a ,t>zan v9e1
except my rope 0 only n9e millimet]s ?ick & ,i 0 twelve hundr$ feet up &
=ty feet away f ! face4 ,! e*o ( my yell mi<t h be5 he>d 0camp]s acr !
valley4 ,2f ! sw+ ev5 came 6a /op1 ,i 0 ju7+ 9 fa/-mo;n 6get back 6!
granite4 ,ev5 ?\< ! face 0 ov]hang+1 ,i ne$$ 6t\* "s?+1 any?+ t mi<t
loosely meet ! def9i;n ( solid matt]4 ,! rope 0 al sp9n+ me >.d 9 qk
circles &1 ev5 ?\< ,i cdn't see ! rock1 ,i dr1d$ ! idea ( fac+ ! va/ op5
sky4 ,z ,i ju7$ up1 ,i rep1t$ 9 a :isp]1 8,i'm fac+ ! rock4 ,i'm fac+ !
rock40 ,i _h alw ?"\ ,i 0 immune 6dizzi;s1 t x 0 a visual ?+2 ,i 0 "o
hundr$ p]c5t wr;g4

,ne> ! top ,i made a big mistake4 ,my tir$ >m sweep+ acr ! face a3id5t,y
bru%$ a huge rock teet]+ on ! side (a small l$ge4 8,wat* t60 ,hans w>n$1 b
x 0 too late4 ,i felt x roll (f & bru% 0my leg z x pick$ up spe$4 ,my h&s
9/9ctively %ot \1 try+ 6cat* x4 ,i t\*$ ! corn] = j an 9/ant1 b xs wei<t
ripp$ x free z x sp$ away & d[n4 ,i felt l a football play] :o _h fum#d a
pass ne> ! 5d z"o1 b ! 3sequ;es ( ? screwup cd co/ m ?an ! game2 x cd co/
lives4 8,rock60 ,i scr1m$1 my voice pick+ up mo;tum z ,i r1liz$ :at 0
happ5+4 ,& abv me & 2l me ,hans1 ,sam1 & ,jeff 7 yell+1 8,rock6 ,rock60
,all \r voices rang \ 9 a d1dly *orus acr ! valley1 8,rock6 ,rock60 ,?ree
climb]s hik+ acr ! talus field f\rte5 hundr$ feet 2l u scatt]$4 ,"o hik]
look$ up1 ran 9 "o direc;n1 !n 9 ano!r1 & !n 9 a ?ird4 ,! giant rock
explod$ ei<t feet f 8 ball$-up =m4

,! re/ (! pit* 3t9u$ "? loose rocks4 ,) ea* move1 ,i felt l my he>t _h
squeez$ up 96my ?roat4 ,:5 ,i r1*$ ,hans1 my face m/ h %[n traces ( an
9t5se 9t]nal guilt1 2c he sd 9 an amaz+ly calm voice1 8,rockfall is "p (!
climb+ game4 ,x's ! risk y take4 ,we've all d"o x40

,on ! la/ pit* ,jeff p]suad$ me 6l1d4 ,i 0 / on $ge b cdn't turn hm d[n4
,6say no seem$ 9 3flict ) climb]s' etiquette & ag/ ! crucial t1m"w requir$
6make ! top4 ,i aid$ ab fifte5 feet up 6a bulgy ov]hang ov] : ,hans sd ,i
wd h 6free climb4 8,"!'s no crack 6place ge>1 s y h 6climb \ ov] ! bulge2 a
c\ple feet hi<]1 ! crack resumes40 ,i mov$ a few feet abv my la/ ge>
place;t1 b ! bulge felt blank "u my f+]tips4 ,i mov$ \ onto ! bulge s"eal
"ts1 b ,i felt "! 0 no way 6get ov] x1 s ,i back$ d[n & hung deject$ly 9 my
la4]s4 ,x wasn't ! fifte5 hundr$ feet ( space 2l t worri$ me1 b ! f\r-foot
l$ge j fifte5 feet 2l t ,i'd f/ b\nce (f if ,i fell4 8,-e on d[n10 ,sam
urg$4 8,let me give x a %ot40 ,i retr1t$ 6! l$ge & sat d[n 9 a cl\d (
humili,n4

,jeff sd1 8,don't worry ab x4 ,n"o ( u wd "e l1d t ) \r eyes clos$40

,af t1 ju7+ up ! fix$ l9e t ,sam _h l$ 6! summit1 ,i felt ev5 worse4 ,i
didn't want 6h an easy excuse = back+ d[n4 ,:5 ,i -plet$ a l1d1 ,i want$ p
6say1 8,i wdn't h d"o t ) my eyes op540 ,x's n t ,i want$ 6impress p4 ,i
climb$ 2c ea* "t ,i 0 a# 6g "o /ep fur!r1 t 0 "o /ep fur!r ?an ,i knew 0
possi#4 ,& :5 ,i got 6:]"e ,i 0 h1d+1 ,i f.d myf 9 a place t1 at "o "t1
only exi/$ 9 my imag9,n4

,on ,! ,nose1 ,i wdn't h ! op;n ( back+ d[n4 ,i'll 2 r1dy1 ,i ?"\1 p]h only
2c ,i'll h 6be r1dy4 ,t's ! way x _h alw "w$ 9 my life1 z a * fac+ !
*all5ges ( bl;s & z an adult fac+ a ?ree-?\s&-foot wall ( granite4 ,i cd
meet ! *all5ge1 b f/1 ,i wd h 6/um# a ll f>!r "? ! d>k;s1 grop+ =! "r holds
t wd take me ": ,i want$ 6g4

,)a few "ds 6g 2f ! big climb1 ,jeff1 ,sam1 & ,i decid$ we ne$$ "o la/
m>a?on "d 9 ! m.ta9s4 ,we ne$$ an h"o/ te/ 6prove t we 7 re,y r1dy4 ,! ,ea/
,buttress ( ,mi4le ,ca!dral is a classic 9 ! valley1 "kn = xs twelve l;g
pit*es & xs di6icult r\tes4 ,r\tes n"e take a simple /rai<t l9e up a rock
face4 ,9/1d !y zigzag radic,y1 foll[+ ! natural pa? ( l1/ resi/.e4 ,cracks
& flakes w pet] \ or %oot \ ov] an impossi# ov]hang4 ,:5 ? happ5s1 climb]s
"s"ts h 6trav]se hundr$s ( feet 6f9d ! 3t9u,n (! r\te4 ,! rock faces (
,yosemite h be5 describ$ z v]tical des]ts1 & 6be lo/ on "o is bo? t]rify+ &
dang]\s4 ,:5 we told ,hans we 7 go+ 6try ! ,ea/ ,buttress1 he gave u two
important pieces ( advice1 8,br+ h1dlamps & bivy ge>40

,hans turn$ \ 6be "r4 ,z dusk swept ov] ! valley1 we 7 / climb+4 ,we _h be5
c.t+ pit*es1 & at ! 5d (! twelf?1 ?"\ we 7 r1*+ ! top4 ,we 7 wr;g4 ,al? !
/eep;s (! rock grew a ll g5tl]1 ! upw>d rise 3t9u$ f>!r ?an ,jeff & ,sam cd
see4 ,f9,y x level$ \ 6a =ty-degree scram# "? loose dirt & clumps ( /unt$
oaks gr[+ \ ( %all[ l$ges4 ,! guidebook /at$ t1 ne> ! top1 climb]s %d 2g9
trav]s+ left1 b "! 7 no rock cairns 6m>k ! way4 ,we decid$ 6keep mov+ up
al? ! way 0 2com+ 9cr1s+ly block$ 0hi< scrub bru%4 ,f>!r up1 ,i sp5t a
frantic h\r ) ,jeff & ,sam f> ah1d d>t+ "r & !n left1 look+ =! pa?1 & me
crab-walk+ up ! granite1 do+ my be/ 6foll[4 ,all ( _! *oices 5d$ 9
drop-(fs4 ,!y wd cra% \ (! bu%es hop+ 6see a trail1 b 9/1d face ! tw9kl+
h1dli<ts ( ,w9nebagos ris+ up f a ?\s& feet 2l4 ,) ni<t -+ on fa/1 ,i cau<t
up 6,jeff & ,sam1 :o 7 sitt+ d[n 3templat+ ! situ,n4 8,li/5 6?10 ,sam sd1
r1d+ ov] ! r\te descrip;n 9 ! guidebook "o la/ "t4 8,d n try ? desc5t at
ni<t40 ,= my b5efit he a4$1 8,x's writt5 9 bold lrs at ! top (! page40 ,x
w5t on 6/ate t _m climb+ "pies _h fall5 6_! d1?s :ile desc5d+ ! m.ta9 9 !
d>k4 ,) t1 ,jeff dug 96! pack & pull$ \ ! h1dlamp4 ,he flick$ ! swit* &
/at$ calmly1 8,big ;,e1 ,i h gd news = y4 ,i didn't =get ! h1dlamp ? "t40

8,gd job10 ,i repli$1 my he>t lift+ a ll4 8,b ! batt]ies >e d1d10 he cut
in4 ,! guidebook's advice1 -b9$ )! d1d batt]ies1 0 5 6w9 my vote1 & ,i
prep>$ m5t,y =a ni<t's bivy on ! top4 ,jeff & ,sam w]5't yet r1dy 6give up1
h["e4 8,we've got fifte5 m m9utes ( li<t10 ,jeff sd4 8,if we don't f9d !
trail 0!n1 we're screw$40 ,he jump$ up & 2gan sc\t+ ag1 :ile ,sam hung back
at my pace4 ,)! la/ traces ( li<t 4appe>+1 x s.d$ too gd 6be true :5 ,jeff
yell$ d[n1 8,i see "s cairns4 ,i ?9k x's a trail40

,:5 we r1*$ ! suppos$ trail1 ,i d\bt$ :e!r x 0 a trail at all4 ,we 7
3/antly fi<t+ \r way "? bru%1 trees1 & b\ld]s4 ,my legs 7 scrap$ & raw4 ,b
all ( ? 0 second>y 2c 9*es f \r left feet1 ! rock swept away 9 a 3t9u\s
drop 6! valley floor4 8,x's /eep & n>r[10 ,sam w>n$4 8,"!'s a lot ( loose
dirt1 s wat* ea* /ep1 & if y gotta fall1 = ,god's sake fall 6! "r40 ,s9ce
,i cdn't see ! drop-(f1 x 0 easi] = me 6block x \ & simply 3c5trate on mak+
sure ea* /ep 0 a firm "o4 8,we're back on ! summit ridge ( ,d5ali10 ,jeff
lau<$ grimly4 8,in ! ^ws ( ,*ris ,morris1 ? a9't no place 6be screw+ !
poo*40

,sam look$ ov]1 %u4]$1 & sd1 8,? is "o (! r>e "ts y %d 2 grate;l y c't see
:at y're do+40

8,!n1 y & ,i %d 2 grate;l too10 ,jeff a4$4

,next ! trail op5$ up 96a ?irty- 6=ty-degree ramp1 smoo? 9 "s places &
brok5 up 9 o!rs4 ,! grade 0 j %all[ 5 6walk d[n 0plac+ my feet flat on !
granite & posi;n+ my wei<t directly ov] !m4 ,a few "ts x /eep5$ & ,i _h
6crab-walk d[n1 & "s"ts x /eep5$ s %>ply we _h 6trav]se a ways 2f we cd
resume4 ,jeff 0 walk+ ) me :ile ,sam =g$ ah1d4 ,! moon 0 2g9n+ 6rise1
provid+ j a h9t ( li<t = !m4 8,put yr h& on my %\ld]10 ,jeff sd4 8,maybe
we'll 2 a# 6move a ll fa/] & get (f ? ?+40 ,z my h& re/$ on 8 %\ld]1 x
worri$ me ea* "t he groan$ & 3fess$ h[ ll he cd see 9 front ( hm4 ,i wond]$
if ,i mi<t d bett] l1d+ hm1 recall+ \r la/ late-ni<t adv5ture tgr1 b ,i
kept on hold+4

,mov+ fa/ d[n a /eep sec;n (! ramp1 ,i /epp$ 9 a deep groove 9 ! rock1
/um#d1 & rega9$ my bal.e 0putt+ a ll extra pressure on ,jeff's %\ld]4
8,easy "!1 home *ick510 ,jeff sd1 & !n1 mak+ 8 voice s.d burly 9 8 be/
,*ris ,morris impres.n1 8,if y fall1 we all fall40 ,if ,i _h re,y fall51
bo? ,jeff & ,i knew "! 7 only two sc5>ios3 ,"o1 he wd hold me up )! /r5g? (
8 body1 or two1 ,i wd drag u bo? (f ! rock4 ,f "t 6"t1 ,i _h travel$ ? way
) ,sam too4 ,"! _h be5 ^? :o 7 afraid 63nect ) me4 ,p]h !y fe>$ a fr%ip )a
bl p]son wd require too m* "w1 too m* adaptabil;y1 or ev51 too m* risk4 ,i
don't "k if ,sam or ,jeff "e _h ^! same res]v,ns4 ,x seems likely t !y once
mi<t h1 b "h !y w]e1 climb+ m.ta9s )a bl man1 a ?"\ t su45ly /ruck me z s
ludicr\s1 ,i alm lau<$ al\d4 ,=! la/ few ye>s1 ,sam & ,jeff _h pr\dly &
r1dily atta*$ _! hopes1 _! ambi;ns1 & _! su3ess z climb]s 6my su3ess1 & 2y
t1 !y _h n"e once hesitat$ 63nect _! v lives 6m9e4 ,i cd only imag9e my
bro!rs or my "f l9k+ _! fates 6m9e 9 ? way1 b ,jeff & ,sam 7 m ?an frs2 !y
_h 2come my bro!rs4

,an h\r lat]1 ,i 0 amaz$ ) ,sam's r\te-f9d+ skills :51 9 alm pit* d>k;s1 he
scr1m$1 8,i see ! rap an*ors40 ,at l1/ n[ we knew we 7 on ! "r pa?4 ,:5 we
f9i%$ five rappels1 we /ood atop a l;g1 /eep talus field4 ,rocks ! size (
baseballs 6busses lay jum#d on top ( ea* o!r1 & mo/ ( !m rock$ or mov$ :5
/epp$ on4 ,"! is no easy way 6expla9 ! mis]y (a talus field1 un.s y close
yr eyes & take a ?ree-h\r hike ov] "o4 ,=! next ?ree h\rs1 ,i 0 ei c>e;lly
hopp+ f rock 6rock1 d[n-climb+ /eep b\ld]s1 or 9*+ d[n loose rub# on my
butt4 ,sam & ,jeff call$ \ ! usual direc;ns4 8,loose rocks left40 8,butt
slide t5 feet40 8,tree bran*1 h1d bang]40 ,) ea* /ep1 ,i'd plant my upp]
foot securely on a rock & sl[ly l[] my o!r leg until my foot t\*$ ano!r
rock4 ,(t5 ! 4t.e d[n 0 s f>1 ,i 0 sitt+ on my heel 2f my toe t\*$ solid
gr.d4 ,!n1 l1n+ h1vily =w>d on a trekk+ pole ja2$ 9 ! gr.d1 ,i'd delicately
put wei<t onto ! l[] /ep4 ,! b"os 9 my knees & ankles gr.d tgr l *alk ag/ a
blackbo>d1 & ,i he>d myf pl$ge1 m ?an once1 8,i'll n"e d any?+ else l ?
ag40 ,b a f9e l9e exi/s 2t mis]y & fun1 & j 2f "o a4m41 ei<te5 h\rs af we
_h 2gun1 :5 ,i f.d myf slump$ 9 ! back ( ,sam's c>1 ! h>d%ips 7 alr drift+
away l morn+ fog4 8,hey1 let's d t "o ag tm10 ,i jok$4

8,maybe we %d h left y "!4 ,!n1 y'd / 2 "! tm10 ,sam jok$ back4

8,he c live "! p]man5tly z f> z ,i'm 3c]n$10 ,jeff a4$4

8,y1h10 ,i jump$ in1 8,yosemite leg5ds wd 2 told ab me4 ,!y'd call x ,8,!
,leg5d (! ,bl ,/ud40'0

8,if y li/5 closely10 ,jeff sd1 cock+ 8 h1d & sp1k+ 9 a haunt+ voice1 8y c
/ he> hm wail+ & :imp]+ z he /um#s aim.sly "? ! talus40