#aa
,prep>,n

,sam1 my ,phoenix climb+ "pn]1 & ,i 7 climb+ a cra7y volcanic p1k : jutt$
%>ply f ! smoo? des]t floor4 ,:5 ne> ! top1 ,sam sd dr1mily1 8,hey1 :at d y
say we g try "s?+ a ll bi7]80

8,l :at80 ,i ask$ cauti\sly4

8,h[ ab ,m.t ,mc,k9ley80

8,don't y ?9k "!'s a sli<t di6];e 2t "o-pit* rock climbs 9 ! des]t &!
talle/ p1k 9 ,nor? ,am]ica80 ,i ?"\ ,sam 0 a lunatic4 ,! treks ,i _h d"o )
my family h>dly -p>$ 6! sev];y ( ,mc,k9ley4 ,i didn't "k ab ! gap+
crevasses t lurk$ 9*es 2n ! surface (! sn[ wait+ 6swall[ climb]s 9 _!
bottom.s dep?s1 or ab ! puni%+ cold t ripp$ "? ev5 a d[n jacket1 or ab !
9t5se w9d & sun t *ang$ ! human face 96t (a reptile4 ,& ,i c]ta9ly didn't
"k t :5 climb]s approa*$ ! summit !y only _h "o ?ird (! oxyg5 at sea level
6br1!4 ,cov]$ ) sn[1 ,mc,k9ley rises 6#bj1cbj feet4 ,! p ( ,alaska call x
0xs ,a?abascan "n1 ,d5ali1 or ,! ,big ,"o4 ,if ,i 7 magic,y a# 6fly /rai<t
up 96! sky1 ,i'd h 6rocket up alm f\r /rai<t miles 6r1* ! summit4 ,despite
my sket*y k & "qa# skill1 ov] ! next few weeks ,sam's idea 2came l a gre$y
ll tapeworm1 burr[+ 96my bra9 & gr[+ fat (f my ?"\s4 ,sam's un%att]+
optimism 0 3tagi\s4 ,x pick$ me up & c>ri$ me al;g4 ,he 2liev$ s /r;gly t
climb+ ,mc,k9ley 0 possi# = u1 soon ,i f.d myf 2liev+ x too4 ,! :ole
radical plan 0 a huge unte/$ l1p ( fai?4 ,i didn't yet "k h[ ,i wd pull x
(f1 b ,i felt t1 )! "r prep>,n1 9g5u;y1 t1m support1 & m5tal t\<;s1 "! _h
6be a way4

,9 ano!r s5se1 ,d5ali 0 a p]fect big p1k ) : 6/>t4 ,m* (a t1m's su3ess wd
rely on a b.s+ f ! m.ta9 gods4 ,) gd w1!r1 su3ess 0 possi#2 )\t x1 ! /r;ge/
t1m didn't h a *.e4 ,? !ory _h be5 play$ \ 0relatively 9exp]i;ed t1ms :o1
0possess+ /r;g legs & he>ts & pl5ty ( pati;e1 r1*$ ! top2 :ile elite1
_w-class t1ms h be5 s5t scurry+ back 6base camp 0a /orm4 ,) gd w1!r r>ely
la/+ m ?an a few "ds at a "t & >ctic /orms -monly produc+ w9d velocities (
#aej miles p] h\r1 %r$d+ t5ts l pap] bags1 ! key 6r1*+ ! top 0 6simply get
lucky4

,"o ni<t sitt+ at my kit*5 ta#1 ,sam & ,i 4cuss$ h[ we cd make ? climb m
?an ! dr1m ( two climb]s4 ,two ye>s 2f1 ,i _h be5 3tact$ 0! ,am]ican ,f.d,n
=! ,bl 7,,afb71 a nonpr(it advocacy & s]vice gr\p =! bl4 ,!y 7 putt+ tgr a
major public-$uc,n campaign 69=m ,am]ica ab ! capabilities ( bl p & want$
6dramatize ^? capabilities 9 a p[];l way4 ,sam & ,i ?"\ t a climb ( ,d5ali
wd fit p]fectly ) ? message & cd help op5 doors ( opportun;y = bl p 9
s*ools & 9 ! "wplace4 ,af pres5t+ ! idea 6,,afb1 !y 7 ec/atic & support$ u
"o hundr$ p]c5t4

,sam & ,i _h met :ile he 0 sub/itut+ at ! ,phoenix ,c.try ,"d ,s*ool4 ,sam
0 a rock climb]1 & we _h qkly 2come frs1 "w+ \ tgr at ! ,phoenix ,rock ,gym
a few ni<ts a week4 ,\r "pn]%ip1 h["e1 _h n 2gun smoo?ly4 ,sam admitt$ 6me
on \r f/ climb+ \t+ at ! rock gym t he su6]$ f ,,add1 att5;n-deficit 4ord]4
,t's grt1 ,i ?"\ s>ca/ic,y1 a guy :o c't see &a guy :o c't 3c5trate1 t1m+
up 6climb ,nor? ,am]ica's hi<e/ & mo/ dang]\s p1k4 ,z we 2lay$ ea* o!r up !
walls1 ,sam & ,i talk$ ab :at 9spir$ u 6climb4 ,sam 3fess$ t he didn't re,y
5joy s*ool1 sitt+ 9 ! back ( class1 try+ 63c5trate on :at ! t1*]s 7 say+4
,mo/ kids seem$ 6be a# 6tune \ "ey?+ b ! t1*]'s voice1 b he'd see & he>
"ey?+3 ! clock tick+ on ! wall1 ! kids lau<+ \tside at recess1 a fly crawl+
up ! w9d[pane4 ,he told me t if 8 m9d 7 a radio1 9/1d ( he>+ j "o /,n1 he'd
he> all ! /,ns at once4 ,sam _h turn$ 6climb+ af a t1*] propos$ t climb+ a
rock face wd help ,sam develop focus4 8,he 0 d1d-on10 ,sam admitt$4 8,i 0
"o hundr$ feet up1 dangl+ f a crimp] hold 0my f+]s1 & y "k "s?+8 ,=! f/ "t
9 my life1 ,i cd tot,y 3c5trate4 ,i wasn't ?9k+ ab h[ ,i _hn't /udi$ = t
algebra te/2 ,i wasn't ?9k+ ab my det5;n ye/]"d2 ,i wasn't ?9k+ ab all !
"ts ,i _h screw$ up4 ,i 0 j ?9k+ ab gett+ 6t next hold40 ,sam & ,i 5d$ !
ni<t )a di6icult ov]hang+ r\te call$ ,! ,mon/]4 8,sam1 ? "o's a ll abv my
level10 ,i admitt$4 8,if ,i get 96tr\# & c't f9d ! next hold on my [n1 bail
me \ )a ll -munic,n40 ,halfway up1 z ! face lung$ \ at a =ty-five-degree
angle1 ! holds got ?9 & my two f+]s1 : 7 jamm$ 96a small pocket1 7 sl[ly
slipp+ \4 ,my o!r h& desp]ately slapp$ >.d =a positive hold1 b ,i 0 los+
5]gy1 on ! v]ge ( fall+4 8,sam10 ,i yell$1 8:at d ,i h80 ,sam immly scr1m$
back1 8,left h&1 up two feet1 left a foot40 ,z ,i lung$ up1 my left h&
slapp+ \ =! hold1 my feet los+ 3tact )! rock1 ,i he>d ,sam mutt]
apologetic,y1 8,oh1 %it4 ,i m1nt "r h&40 ,i dangl$ f ! rope fum+ "u my
labor$ br1?s4

,sam's life alw seem$ a ll 4combobulat$4 ,= \r f/ tra9+ ses.n1 we debat$
:e!r 6g runn+ or hik+1 f9,y settl+ on runn+4 ,b :5 ,sam %[$ up at my a"p;t
clunk+ >.d 9 hik+ boots1 ,i ask$1 8,h[ y gonna run 9 ^? ?+s80

8,oh1 ,i'll 2 f9e10 he sd1 &! angle at : 8 voice project$ told me he 0
look+ d[n at 8 boots1 z if he 0 only !n 4cov]+ 8 bl"u4 ,he hesitat$ & !n
sd1 8,umm1 runn+ doesn't re,y get climb]s 9 %ape4 ,let's g hik+40

,if ,sam 0 a ll unorganiz$1 ,i 0 a ll pigh1d$4 ,af \r hike1 ,i sd1 8,tm
let's d a run 9 ! des]t40

8,w y 2 a# 6navigate "? all ^? rocks & cactus80 ,sam ask$4

,i gave ,sam an annoy$ look1 z if 6say1 y j br+ yr runn+ %oes4 ,i'll take
c>e (! re/4 ,on ! run1 ,sam 0 9 ! l1d1 ) ,wiz & ,i trott+ al;g "r 2h4 ,wiz
0 do+ a gd job w1v+ me >.d cactuses & b\ld]s & paus+ =a mo;t 69dicate small
rocks 6be jump$ ov]4 ,i 0 j />t+ 6feel 3fid5t & /a# on ! unev5 trail :5 ,i
tripp$ ov] a cactus1 so>$ "? ! air1 & l&$ h>d ) my palm ag/ a %>p rock4 ,i
took (f my %irt & wrapp$ my h& z x pulsat$ ) blood4 ,i 0 hot1 dripp+ )
sw1t1 & angry ) myf4 ,! h& ne$$ s"eal /it*es1 s =! re/ (! ev5+1 ,sam & ,i
sat glumly 9 ! em]g5cy room4 ,! next "d1 my fif?-grade class saw my b&ag$
h& & ,i told !m :at _h happ5$4 ,"o v brave & precoci\s ll girl /ood up &
ask$1 8,mr4 ,w41 if y fell d[n 9 ! des]t1 h[ d y expect 6climb t big
m.ta980 ,:at worri$ me m ?an h] "q 0 t ,i didn't yet h a -plete answ]4

,ov] ! weeks1 we 2gan 6"w ! k9ks \ ( \r tra9+4 ,nei ,sam nor ,i cd get 6!
m.ta9s e "d1 s we got p]mis.n 6run ! back /airway (! talle/ build+ 9 d[nt[n
,phoenix3 fifty floors & ab five hundr$ feet ( elev,n ga94 ,sam & ,i wd
meet e ev5+ at ! build+ ) \r sev5ty-p.d packs 6plod up ! /airway4 ,soon we
turn$ x 96a -peti;n1 rac+ ea* o!r 6! top4 ,:5 "o ( u 0 feel+ lazy or tir$ f
a l;g "d ( t1*+1 ! o!r wd pu% hm4 ,x gave me extra 5]gy :5 ,i'd he> ,sam's
feet ?"u+ up 2h me & ,sam yell+1 8,y're sl[ tn1 ,sup] ,bl ,guy4 ,i'm go+
6%ame y40 ,t wd give me 5 5]gy 6spe$ up1 j 5 6keep ,sam at my heels4 ,:5 ,i
0 feel+ /r;g1 "! 0 no?+ bett] ?an 6race pa/ ,sam 9 ! la/ t5 fli<ts1 ,sam
lau<+ & gra2+ ! back ( my h1vy pack4 ,halfway up ! /airway1 we'd alw /op 6d
tw5ty-five sit-ups & pu%-ups1 b on \r f/ ni<t1 af \r f/ set1 ,sam yell$ \ z
he hoi/$ 8 pack up1 8,oh 0! way--,i did tw5ty-six4 ,t wd 2 "o m ?an y did40
,s af t1 ! game 0 on4 ,! next set1 ,i did tw5ty-sev5 & !n ,sam tw5ty-ei<t1
me tw5ty-n9e1 & ,sam ?irty4 ,a mon? lat]1 we 7 close 6?ree digits4

,:5 ,sam cdn't jo9 me1 ,i f.d a way 6-pete ag/ myf4 ,i'd set my talk+ wat*
= tw5ty m9utes & play a cruel ll game4 ,i'd say 6myf1 if y don't make x 6!
top 2f ! al>m goes (f1 y won't summit4 ,) t t]rify+ pressure1 ,i'd n"e
slack5 my pace1 no matt] h[ tir$ ,i was4 ,"s"ts1 ,i'd pu% my wat* halfway
up & x wd call back1 8,six m9utes rema9+40 ,i'd run ) ab&on;t1 ignor+ my
h1vy l1d5 legs & my *e/ cav;y su6ocat+1 & t\* ! top l&+ only seconds 2f !
al>m rang \4 ,c.t.s "ts1 ,i'd flop ag/ ! top rail+1 c\<+ & sputt]+ & gasp+
= air1 ) b>ely ! 5]gy rema9+ 6lift my h1d4 8,,ok10 ,i'd say 6myf4 8,y only
squ1k$ by1 b y des]ve 6summit40 ,my tra9+ regim5 wasn't v sci5tific2 ea*
ni<t ,i only all[$ myf 6quit :51 af f\r or five "ts 6! top1 ,i felt s
nause\s & dehydrat$ ,i ?"\ ,i 0 go+ 6?r[ up4

,2ss hump+ a h1vy pack 6! top (a build+1 ,i knew no?+ cd b1t ! physical
b5efits ( pure runn+1 b ,wiz>d's & my des]t runn+ exp]i;e _h be5 a 4a/]4
,plus1 ,wiz _h def9ite pac+ issues2 he'd drag me ! f/ half mile & ,i'd w9d
up dra7+ hm ! next five &a half4 ,ellie wasn't a l;g-4t.e runn]1 b lik$
6ride h] bike4 ,i ?"\ "! mi<t 2 a way 6utilize ,ellie's bike rid+ 6help me
run4 ,soon1 an idea came 6me1 & ,i _h a fr at ! local h>dw>e /ore help me
r1lize x4 ,! design 3si/$ ( two l;g wood5 d[els1 3nect$ 0a two-9* piece (
bungee cord t wrapp$ >.d ,ellie's bike s1t4 ,i held two loops ( rope 3nect$
at ! o!r 5d (! d[els1 5abl+ me 6jog -=tably 2h ,ellie's bike4 ,! pr9ciple 0
simil> 6,wiz>d's h>;s4 ,"? ! two /iff d[els1 ,i cd feel ,ellie turn+ left
or "r1 sl[+ d[n or spe$+ up al;g ! h>d-pack$ dirt trail t /ret*$ = miles j
\tside \r h\se4 ,2c ! pace _h 6be ma9ta9$ =a runn]1 ,ellie (t5 grew bor$
go+ s sl[ly on h] bike4 ,65t]ta9 h]f al;g ! t$i\s miles1 ,ellie jamm$
6fa/-pac$ rock 'n' roll ) p.d+ drum solos on h] ,walkman4 ,9adv]t5tly1 %e
9cr1s$ ! pace until ,i 0 spr9t+ 2h h]4 ,) h] music bl>+ 9 h] e>s1 %e cdn't
he> me sputt]+ & c\<+ \1 8,ellie1 sl[ d[n4 ,pl1se sl[ d[n60 ,ev5tu,y1 :5 %e
felt ! rev]se tug ( my body wei<t 2h h]1 %e got ! idea & ?rottl$ back j 5
6keep my lungs f explod+4 ,admitt$ly1 dra7+ a bl guy mile af 5d.s mile 0 v
bor+1 s1 a ll fru/rat$1 ,ellie nick"nd my 9v5;n exactly t1 ,! ,bl ,dra7]4

,"?\t ! mon?s ,i al p\r$ "? books 9 ,brl & on tape ab ,d5ali4 ,"o book
analyz$ ea* ( ,d5ali's "o hundr$ climb+ fatalities3 cau<t 9 a /orm ) no
bivy ge>1 tripp$ on a crampon /rap or a loop hang+ f an ice ax1 fall+
unrop$ "? a sn[ bridge 96a hi45 crevasse4 ,i didn't want 6w9d up a /ati/ic
9 a book on climb+ fatalities & figur$ a gd way 6le>n :at 6d on ,d5ali 0
6f/ 2come an exp]t on :at n 6d on ,d5ali4

,sam _h two frs 9 m9d = \r t1m :om he _h met at an em]g5cy m$ical te*nician
class 9 ,colorado4 ,! f/ 0 ,ryan ,ludwig1 a husky "y climb] f ,wyom+1 :o _h
liv$ 9 ! m.ta9s all 8 life4 ,! second was1 z ,sam describ$1 a 8free-:eel+1
fair-hair$ pretty boy0 :o 0 z -=ta# on an ov]hang+ rock face z he 0 at a
,grate;l ,d1d 3c]t or a ,ra9b[ ,ga!r+4

,9 ! w9t]1 ,sam & ,i drove \ 6,jo%ua ,tree1 a va/ hi< des]t full (
spectacul> cli6s & crags1 6meet ! t1m4 ,late at ni<t1 :5 we r1*$ ! $ge (
;,j ,tree1 we pull$ (f ! road & slept on \r foam pads 9 ! cold rocky scrub4
,ly+ back "u ! />s1 :ile anticipat+ meet+ ,jeff & ,ryan1 ,i li/5$ 6!
massive op5;s (! sky1 s sweep+ & 9f9ite1 x 0 h>d 63ceptualize4 ,wiz>d 0
uneasy too1 b = di6]5t r1sons4 ,he :imp]$ s(tly & snu7l$ clos] 6me z we bo?
he>d packs ( coyotes yelp+ 9 ! ne> 4t.e4

,9 ! morn+1 we met ,ryan & ,jeff & 2gan a "d ( rock climb+4 ,mov+ up ! /eep
slipp]y trails 6! base (! climbs1 ,i practic$ my new & n-yet-p]fect$ hik+
sy/em4 ,mon?s 2f1 ,sam & ,i _h g"o 6an \tdoor retail]s' %[ 9 ,r5o1 ,nevada1
6beg free ge>4 ,pass+ a boo?1 ,sam /opp$4 8,*eck ? \10 he sd casu,y & plac$
two l;g poles 9 my h&4 ,at ! "t1 nei ( u fully imag9$ _! implic,ns4 ,j z
,wiz>d _h op5$ up _ws ( opportun;y travel+ 9dep5d5tly "? c;y /reets1 subway
/,ns1 & airports1 ^! two poles wd revolu;nize my abil;y 6navigate 9 !
m.ta9s4 ,!y 7 ,,leki trekk+ poles1 amaz+ly li<t & s /urdy1 t ev5 0l1n+ my
full wei<t on !m & viol5tly b\nc+ up & d[n1 !y wdn't snap4 ,!y al gave me
bett] bal.e2 9/1d ( only hav+ two legs1 n[ ,i _h f\r4 ,:ile hik+ up !
approa* trail 9 ;,j ,tree1 ,i ?ru/ \ a pole1 scann+ =a gd foot place;t4 ,:5
,i f.d "o1 ,i ja2$ ! %>p metal po9t 9 ! gr.d1 j pa/ ! place;t1 & l1n+ =w>d
) all my wei<t on ! pole1 l[]$ my foot sl[ly d[n until x t\*$ ! trail4
,(t51 ! loc,n 0 v unev51 : 2f wd h caus$ me 6twi/ my ankle1 b n[1 ) my full
wei<t on ! pole1 ,i cd reposi;n ! foot onto flatt] gr.d4 ,i imag9e all ?
scann+1 ja2+1 posi;n+1 & frantic reposi;n+ look$ 6a si<t$ p]son l a
b>ely-"u-3trol /um# & ,i c "u/& ! panic t m/ h fill$ ,ryan & ,jeff :5 !y
wat*$ me lur* up ! trail 2s a hundr$-foot drop-(f4

,:5 scrambl+ up a /eep rocky ramp 6! base (! climb1 ,ryan kept 8 h&s
protectively >.d my ankles4 ,i didn't "k :e!r 6drag ,ryan's >ms 2h me or
wait until 8 h&s pu%$ my ankles =w>d4 ,:5 ,i r1*$ ! flat sec;n at ! base1
,i _h 6tell hm1 nicely ( c\rse1 8,y c let g ( my ankles n[40 ,i didn't
worry too m* ab ! extra help4 ,i _h be5 "? ? a ?\s& "ts :5 meet+ new p4 ,!y
don't "k :at 6d1 s !y d "ey?+4 ,ryan & ,jeff wd le>n soon 5 :at help ,i
ne$$ & :at help ,i did n4

,t ev5+ we built a campfire & sat >.d trad+ /ories4 ,ryan _h j -plet$ a f/
w9t] asc5t (a ja7$ ?irte5-?\s&-foot p1k call$ ,black ,too? situat$ 9 ! ,big
,horn m.ta9 range ( ,wyom+4 ,j he>+ ! f1t made my h&s g clammy1 ev5 9 !
cold des]t ni<t4 ,)a "pn]1 he _h sn[mobil$ 9 = two "ds & !n f"\ "? *e/-deep
sn[ = five h\rs1 j 6r1* ! base (! rock4 ,ne> ev5+ !y f.d !mvs on a
five-hundr$-foot /eep rock face l1d+ 6! summit1 b didn't h 5 "dli<t 6/ay
rop$ tgr & 2lay ea* o!r up ea* pit*4 ,s ! two _h free-solo$ 6! top1 ) no
safety l9e 6/op a pot5tial f\r-?\s&-foot ride d[n 96! valley4 ,ryan tra9$
0tak+ l;g m.ta9 runs ov] a ?irte5-?\s&-foot pass ne> 8 home4 ,i _h only be5
6?irte5 ?\s& feet a few "ts 9 my life & once 0 9 a c>4 ,i c]ta9ly cdn't
imag9e runn+ at t altitude4

,jeff1 al? z h>d-core z ,ryan1 *ose 6d[nplay 8 adv5tures4 ,he 0 at home 9 !
,rocky ,m.ta9s ": he liv$1 s -=ta# 9 fact1 t he told u he made a ye>ly
habit \ ( climb+ ,b\ld]'s ,?ird ,flat ,iron "u ! li<t (! moon1 we>+ no?+ b
8 h>;s4 8,! h>;s actu,y *af$ c]ta9 s5sitive >1s10 ,jeff admitt$ %eepi%ly1
8s ,i _h 6put on a pair ( box]s "u ! h>;s40 ,m.ta9s 7 m important 6,jeff
?an a home1 a job1 or secur;y4 ,he took jobs 6be close 6! m.ta9s4 ,girlfrs
_h 6be a# 6keep up ) 8 hi<-altitude adv5tures4 ,al? n"o ( !m cd1 a v l>ge
numb] _h tri$4

8,i've n"e d"o a f/ asc5t or g"o climb+ 9 ! buff10 ,sam sd1 8b ,i'll bet ya
,i've be5 "s": n"o ( y h40 ,!n ,sam told u ! /ory ( 8 la/ summ]'s job1
hang+ (f cli6s \tside ( ,$gemont1 ,s\? ,dakota1 drill+ rock samples =!
,bur1u ( ,economic ,geology4 8,i _h no?+ 6d ) geology or oil4 ,i 0 j a
hippie rock climb] :o f.d a pay+ job "w+ ) ropes way up (f ! gr.d40 ,sam _h
jump$ at ! opportun;y1 ?9k+ x wd 2 a gd way 6get \ ( ,phoenix =! summ]4
,al1 he 0 nurs+ a brok5 he>t f a rec5t br1kup )a girlfr & ?"\ ! *ange wd
give hm "t 6reassess 8 rel,n%ip1 8 life1 8 future1 all ( : felt transitory4

,! new job & sett+1 h["e1 didn't seem 3ducive 6deep reflec;n on life4 ,!
t[n's only two busi;ses 7 xs ram%ackle b> &! c.ty dump1 & he slept on a cot
9 a g>age t 0 3/antly flood+ 9 ! viol5t ?"u/orms (! nor!rn pla9s4 ,= t5
h\rs a "d1 ,sam hung f loose s&/"o cli6s drill+ ?\s&s ( core samples1 amid/
cl\ds ( mosquitoes & bit+ flies4 ,x 0 -mon = van-siz$ blocks ( /"o 6-e
loose & tum# ! hundr$s ( feet 6! canyon floor1 ne>ly tak+ ,sam ) !m4 ,z he
hung1 he li/5$ 6! only radio /,n on 8 ,walkman--,lakota ,9dian d1? *ants--&
look$ \ ov] ! va/ empty prairie :1 = ,sam1 held ! <o/s ( millions ( bu6alo
&! ,9dians :o hunt$ !m4 8,i f.d myf wond]+1 :at exactly 0 ,i 2+ puni%$ =80
,sam sd1 ?r[+ ano!r log on ! fire4 8,was x = "s %ame;l act ,i _h p]=m$ or a
he>t.s ?+ ,i sd or j = "o (! _m bad deci.ns ,i _h made ov] ! ye>s80

,af a late ni<t dr9k+ b+e1 :5 ,sam 0 "picul>ly hungov]1 he f.d hmf "w+ al"o
on a 4tant mesa4 ,no?+ 0 go+ "r4 ,9 ord] 6sample ! cliff1 he _h 6haul a few
hundr$ p.ds ( equip;t "? ! canyon bottom1 ov] mud flats & b\ld] fields1 &
up a /eep goat pa? 6! top (! mesa4 ,z soon z he wd get 8 equip;t organiz$ &
0 prep>$ 6rappel ov] ! side (! cliff1 he'd r1lize he =got "s vital piece (
ge> & h 6desc5d back 6his />t+ po9t4 ,:5 he f9,y got susp5d$1 9evitably
he'd drop a wr5* or screwdriv] or drill bit & h 6g all ! way d[n ag4 ,9
a4i;n1 8 drill 3/antly ne$$ 6be fill$ ) gas1 caus+ hm 6g back up top ag4 ,?
patt]n kept up "?\t ! morn+ z ! sun grew hott]1 ! 9sects ?ir/i] & 8 hangov]
m fi]ce4 ,! la/ /raw 0 :5 ! five-gallon wat] bag he _h haul$ up 6! top (!
cliff broke loose f xs 3nec;ns & empti$ xf all ov] a cactus pat* f> 2l4

,! /ory 0 v9tage ,sammy1 ,i ?"\1 z ,i rem9isc$ on \r f/ "ds tra9+ tgr4 ,!
fire _h calm$ n[ 6j a sizzle z ,sam 3t9u$1 8,af ! wat] bag bu/$1 ,i sank
6my knees & 2gan scr1m+ & p.d+ ! mu4y gr.d ) my fi/s4 ,my vi.n w5t tot,y r$
& !n ,i black$ \ =a m9ute4 ,:5 ,i op5$ my eyes1 ,i s5s$ "s move;t1 & af ,i
f.d my glasses1 : ,i'd ?r[n d[n & ne>ly /omp$ on 9 rage1 ,i saw t two dung
beetles 7 pu%+ a ball ( %it up ! hill1 pa/ me4 ,! si<t ( x gave me a feel+
( pure 5vy4 ,^? two %it-bugs 7 su3e$+ ": ,i _h fail$4 ,ev5 worse ?an t1 ,i
0 all al"o4 ,at l1/ !y _h ea* o!r40 ,ryan1 ,jeff1 & ,i cd no l;g] hold back
\r lau<t]4 ,x sputt]$ \ & !n explod$ 963vul.ns1 9 spite ( ,sam's trag$y4
,he 3clud$1 8,i knew !n t if ! bi7e/ ?+ ,i "e a3ompli%$ 9 life 0 pu%+ a
huge wad ( bull%it up a hill1 ,i'd 2 satisfi$1 z l;g z ,i did x well40

8,in a few mon?s10 ,i sd1 8y'll get yr wi%40

8,hold on "!1 home *ick510 ,jeff sd4 8,: ( u is ! pile ( %it he's gonna 2
pu%+80

8,isn't x obvi\s80 ,sam *uckl$1 pok+ me 9 ! %\ld]4


,ov] ! w9t] & spr+1 we ga9$ cohesive;s & skill z a t1m1 meet+ p]iodic,y =
climbs ( ,m.t ,ra9i] 9 ,wa%+ton & ,l;g's ,p1k 9 ,colorado4 ,on ,ra9i]1 we
"w$ on crevasse rescues1 0l[]+ t1m memb]s deep 96op5 cav]n\s slots & hav+
!m climb ! v]tical ice walls 6! top1 us+ _! m.ta9e]+ axes &! front po9ts (
_! crampons4 ,! bottoms ( crevasses n>r[$ 6only a foot wide 9 places1 & ,i
"u/ood grimly h[ a r1l fall wd 9escapably w$ge a climb] 2t xs icy jaws4 ,no
w>m+ sunli<t r1*$ ! frigid1 dank bottom1 s ,i alw climb$ fa/ & furi\sly
until ,i felt xs welcom$ gl[ on my face4 ,9 case ! victim 0 9capacitat$1 we
al practic$ pull+ up t1m memb]s 0a -plex rope sy/em ( ice ax an*ors1
asc5d]s1 & pulleys4

,on ,l;g's ,p1k1 we got \r bodies us$ 6pull+ h1vy sl$s 2h \r equ,y h1vy
backpacks4 ,af only an h\r1 ! muscles 9 my hips 7 use.s & pat*es ( sk9 "u
my hip belt 7 ru2$ raw4 ,z we mov$ up ! /eepe/ sec;ns1 we practic$ rop+ up1
=m+ two rope t1ms ( two1 ea* ( u 3nect$ 6\r "pn] 0?irty feet4 ,we practic$
! te*nique ( ty+ ! back ( \r sl$s 6! climb]s' rope )a prusik knot1 : wd
ti<t5 & lock (f ) any su45 move;t4 ,_m m.ta9e]s h surviv$ a crevasse fall1
only 6be kill$ 0_! fifty-p.d sl$s cra%+ d[n on top ( !m4 ,)a prusik fall1
h["e1 ! t1m memb]s abv ! crevasse wd self->re/1 ?r[+ !mvs d[n on _! ice
axes1 : wd an*or ! climb]s' rope2 ! prusik knot wd lock (f ag/ ! tau<t
climb]s' rope1 prev5t+ ! sl$ f foll[+ ! victim 96! slot4 ,mov+ up a /eep
=ty-five-degree sn[ slope1 ,jeff sd1 8,sup] ,bl1 ,i'm n gonna tell y :5 x's
-in'1 b at "s po9t1 ,i'm gonna hurl my body d[n ? slope1 & y're gonna save
my ass40 ,jeff 0 only emphasiz+ half ! equ,n1 s9ce we 7 rop$ tgr4 ,climb+
upw>d1 ,i felt l ,i 0 m>*+ 96battle1 e muscle 9 my body wait+ =! 5emy
6/rike4 ,!n ,i felt ! h>% j]k (! rope ripp+ me ov] backw>ds4 ,i hit ! slope
on my back1 h1d d[nw>d1 ) my l>ge pack wei<+ me d[n l a turtle's %ell4 ,z
,i slid1 ,i wri!d & twi/$ my body onto my /oma* & slamm$ my *e/ ag/ ! blunt
side ( my ax1 : drove ! %>p pick side 96! glaz$ sn[4 ,) ,jeff's h1vy wei<t
pull+ u d[nw>d1 at f/ ! pick only slic$ "? ! flimsy sn[ l a %>p knife "?
bir?"d cake4 ,i kept my body /iff1 al pu%+ my b5t knees 96! sn[4 ,i knew at
? spe$ n 6dig ! front po9ts ( my crampons 96! sn[2 ! a4$ pressure ( ^!
po9ts -b9$ )! p[];l d[nw>d mo;tum wd flip me ov] backw>ds ag4 ,ev5tu,y1 we
came 6a /op & )\t a ^w1 />t$ up ag1 only 6h ,jeff1 a few m9utes lat]1 hurl
hmf d[n once m4 ,0! 5d (! afn1 my body a*$ f ! doz5s ( falls &! slid+ _h
pu%$ piles ( sn[ "u my ,,gore-tex %ell1 soak+ me "?4 ,t ni<t z ,i slept 9 !
t5t1 my body twit*$ & wri7l$ z ! fi]ce pull (! rope &! vibrat+ mo;n ( my ax
cutt+ "? sn[ crept 96e dr1m4 ,9 a r1l rope fall1 ,i knew my self->re/ _h
6be automatic4 ,! ac;n ne$$ 6be drill$ 96! 9volunt>y circuitry ( my muscle
fib]s4 ,if ,i _h 6?9k ab :at 6d dur+ a fall1 x wd 2 too late4

,n all ( my "t l1d+ up 6! climb 0 sp5t on ! m.ta92 z "p ( _! public-$uc,n
campaign1 ! ,,afb ask$ me 6d "s ,,tv 9t]views4 ,"o 0 a *eesy "d"t talk %[1
on : ,i 0 %[cas$ am;g a gr\p ( bl p deem$ 8amaz+ & 9spir,nal40 ,all ! bl p
7 l$ onto ! /age1 canes tapp+ & dogs' tails wa7+1 & s1t$ 9 a r[ 9 front (!
cr[d4 ,i 0 f1tur$ f/1 &! ho/ op5$ )1 8,a bl m.ta9 climb]4 ,isn't t 9cr$i#8
,ev5 ,i1 :o c see j f9e1 wdn't ?9k ( climb+ a m.ta940 ,? wasn't ! f/ "t ,i
_h he>d ! 8,ev5 ,i0 /ate;t4 ,x 0 alw m1nt z a -pli;t1 b x n"e fail$ 6annoy
me4 ,"! mi<t 2 a doz5 o!r factors t prev5t$ ! ho/ f excell+ 9 ! sport (
m.ta9 climb+4 ,%e mi<t 2 fifty p.ds ov]wei<t1 :eez+ ) e br1?1 & mi<t n"e h
ev5 set foot on a m.ta91 b 9 h] m9d1 su3ess or failure 0 automatic,y
attribut$ 6"o factor3 si<t or no si<t4

,! second paneli/ _h 8h]oic,y sav$ ano!r's life0 dur+ ! rec5t ,san
,francisco e>?quake1 b :5 ! /ory 0 fle%$ \1 x seem$ f> less ?an h]oic4
,/ay+ 9 a hotel dur+ ! e>?quake & "k+ a woman 9 a :eel*air room$ next door1
! bl woman _h yell$ \ h] w9d[ = help4 ,two /urdy 3/ruc;n "w]s he>d h]
yells1 ru%$ in1 & c>ri$ ! :eel*air-b.d woman 6safety4 ,i wond]$ :y !
3/ruc;n "w]s w]5't on ? %[4 ,next a bl -$ian /ood up & p]=m$ 8 act4 ,he
po9t$ 6! audi;e & sd1 8,don't y all look lovely ? afn40 ,! audi;e erupt$ 9
lau<t]4 8,i've he>d \r ho/ is a hot numb]10 he sd4 8,i'd l 6feel h] face4
,hu2a hu2a40 ,! audi;e erupt$ ag4 ,he told "o bl joke af ano!r1 ! k9d ,i _h
told 9 mi4le s*ool 6ga9 a3ept.e1 & ev5 !n1 ,i _h "kn ! jokes w]5't funny4

,"?\t ! re/ (! seg;t1 ,i squirm$ 9 my s1t4 ,i %d h be5 pr\d 6be pick$ \ z
2+ 8amaz+ & 9spir,nal10 b /rangely1 ,i felt m emb>rass$ & ev5 a ll sick4 ,i
0 no m a3ompli%$ ?an ! o!rs4 ,i 0 simply a bl p]son :o plann$ 6climb a
m.ta9 & no?+ m4 ,b p s5s,nalize ! lives ( bl p :51 (t51 all !y did 0
exhibit a sembl.e ( normalcy4 ,i _h be5 rcvg ^! a3olades my :ole life3 give
"s"o direc;ns 6my h\se--9cr$i#4 ,make eye 3tact 9 a 3v]s,n--amaz+4 ,p\r a
glass ( milk )\t spill+ x all ov] ! ta#--9spir+4 ,ea* ( u on ! panel 0 2+
honor$ = \r h]oic tales1 b ! recogni;n spoke m l\dly ( l[ expect,ns ?an (
a3ompli%;t4 ,my he>t burn$ )! memory ( my h]oes1 p l ,hel5 ,kell]1 :o took
! _w's p]cep;ns ab ! 4a#d & %att]$ !m 96a million pieces1 p ^: /ories made
me hung] =! c\rage 6live 9 _! image4 ,= ^? :o ,i exalt$ )! label ( h]o1 _!
/ories _h 6be truly h]oic & n holl[4

,! ho/ 5d$ ! %[ )a demon/r,n ( 8beep] baseball10 a game simil> 6baseball
develop$ = bl p4 ,)a doz5 9spir,nal h]oes on /age1 ,i h no idea :y ,i 0
select$ z ! repres5tative batt]4 ,an audi;e memb] pit*$ me ! beep+ :i6le
ball4 ,i miss$ ! f/ pit*1 &! second4 ,! ?ird pit* 0 ?r[n ) only a few
seconds ( air "t left2 ! %['s snappy !me s;g 0 />t+ 6play1 &! ho/ _h 2gun
h] 5d+ monologue ab h[ amaz+ & 9spir+ we all w]e1 :5 ,i 3nect$ )! beep4 ,i
he>d h] monologue trail (f z %e spott$ ! ball rocket+ t[>d h]1 !n ! clunk
(! ball z x b\nc$ (f h] h1d4 ,v9dic,n1 ,i ?"\ lat]1 :5 ! amus$ pit*] told
me :at _h happ5$4 ,z ,i h1d$ back 6! airport 6cat* my plane home1 ,i 2gan
6r1lize t :5 bl p cd 2come /&-up -$ians1 organize an e>?quake rescue1 &
plan 6climb a m.ta9 )\t 2+ s+l$ \ z 9spir,nal1 t is :5 ! _w wd 2 a p]fect
place4