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ME UP 9 ! ,B1GLE4 ,! 4T.E 9 A /RAI<T L9E
AL;G ! %ORE NOR?W>D IS ONLY #DBJ MILES2
B MY MODE ( TRAVELL+ MADE X A V L;G
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LATT] C>RY+ ! LU7AGE ON ALT]NATE "DS4 ,!
SIX ANIMALS TGR ONLY CO/ ! VALUE (
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SOLD !M AG = TW5TY-?REE4 ,WE TRAVELL$ 9
! SAME 9DEP5D5T MANN] Z 2F1 COOK+ \R [N
M1LS1 & SLEEP+ 9 ! OP5 AIR4 ,Z WE RODE
T[>DS ! ,V9O DEL ,M>1 ,I TOOK A F>EWELL
VIEW ( ,VALP>AISO1 & ADMIR$ XS
PICTURESQUE APPE>.E4 ,= GEOLOGICAL
PURPOSES ,I MADE A DET\R F ! HI< ROAD 6!
FOOT (! ,BELL ( ,QUILLOTA4 ,WE PASS$ "?
AN ALLUVIAL 4TRICT RI* 9 GOLD1 6!
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9D5T$ COA/ &! BOTTOM (! NEI<B\R+ SEA1
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9T]M$IATE L& 0 Q B>E1 N SUPPORT+ EV5
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GRASS & O!R PLANTS SEEM 6A3OMMODATE
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( RA9 : FALLS ^U DI6]5T "PS ( ? COA/4
,"O %[] F> NOR?W>D AT ,COPIAPO PRODUCES
Z GRT AN E6ECT ON ! VEGET,N1 Z TWO AT
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/RICT PROPOR;N 6! LATITUDE4 ,AT ,3*ALEE1
: IS ONLY #FG MILES NOR? ( ,VALP>AISO1
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,APRIL3 ! ANNUAL QUANT;Y IS LIKEWISE
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"DS1 "! IS NO EXCESS ( EXTRAVAG.E 96: !Y
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!N1 L SAILORS ) PRIZE-M"OY1 !Y TRY H[
SOON !Y C 3TRIVE 6SQU&] X4 ,!Y DR9K
EXCESSIVELY1 BUY QUANTITIES ( CLO!S1 & 9
A FEW "DS RETURN P5NI.S 6_! MIS]A#
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FOOD IS F.D !M1 & !Y ACQUIRE NO HABITS (
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YIELD+ 6X >E PLAC$ 9 _! P[] AT ! SAME
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H>D Z !Y CD = AB TWO HUNDR$ Y>DS1 7
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  ,WE 3T9U$ TRAVELL+ NOR?W>D1 9 A ZIGZAG
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OBSCURE1 T WE (T5 _H DI6ICULTY 9 F9D+ \R
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F 2+ ABUNDANT X 0 SUPPOS$ ! M9E WD SELL
= AB ?IRTY OR =TY ?\S& DOLL>S 7T IS1
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6LOSE IMM5SE SUMS ( M"OY4 ,! FOLLY (!
GRT] NUMB] (! -MIS.N]S & %>EHOLD]S AM.T$
69FATU,N2--A ?\S& P.DS P] ANNUM GIV5 9
"S CASES 65T]TA9 ! ,*ILIAN AU?ORITIES2
LIBR>IES ( WELL-B.D GEOLOGICAL BOOKS2
M9]S BR"\ \ = "PICUL> METALS1 Z T91 : >E
N F.D 9 ,*ILE2 3TRACTS 6SUPPLY ! M9]S )
MILK1 9 "PS ": "! >E NO C[S2 MA*9]Y1 ":
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NO D\BT1 T ! SAME CAPITAL WELL EMPLOY$ 9
^! M9ES WD H YIELD$ AN IMM5SE RETURN1 A
3FID5TIAL MAN ( BUSI;S1 A PRACTICAL M9]
& ASSAY]1 WD H BE5 ALL T 0 REQUIR$4
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LOAD : ! 8,APIRES10 TRULY B1/S ( BURD51
C>RY UP F ! DEEPE/ M9ES4 ,I 3FESS ,I ?"\
! A3.T EXA7]AT$3 S T ,I 0 GLAD 6TAKE AN
OPPORTUN;Y ( WEI<+ "O (! LOADS1 : ,I
PICK$ \ 0HAZ>D4 ,X REQUIR$ 3SID]A# EX];N
ON MY "P1 :5 /&+ DIRECTLY OV] X1 6LIFT X
F ! GR.D4 ,! LOAD 0 3SID]$ "U WEI<T :5
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EI<TY Y>DS DEEP2 & !Y 7 EMPLOY$ 9 !
9T]VALS 9 BR1K+ & PICK+ ORE4
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(T5]1 & !N ONLY ! H>D DRY *>QUI4 ,AL? )A
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M9E2 _! BODIES B5T =W>D1 L1N+ ) _! >MS
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_! BR1/S1 _! NO/RILS 4T5D$1 ! CORN]S (
_! M\? =CIBLY DRAWN BACK1 &! EXPUL.N (
_! BR1? MO/ LABORI\S4 ,EA* "T !Y DRAW _!
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6ME A WOND];L 9/.E (! AM.T ( LAB\R :
HABIT1 = X C 2 NO?+ ELSE1 W 5A# A MAN
65DURE4
  ,9 ! EV5+1 TALK+ )! @__MAYOR-DOMO@__ (
^! M9ES AB ! NUMB] ( =EIGN]S N[ SCATT]$
OV] ! :OLE C.TRY1 HE TOLD ME T1 ?\< Q A
"Y MAN1 HE REMEMB]S :5 HE 0 A BOY AT
S*OOL AT ,COQUIMBO1 A HOLI"D 2+ GIV5
6SEE ! CAPTA9 ( AN ,5GLI% %IP1 :O 0 BR"\
6! C;Y 6SP1K 6! GOV]NOR4 ,HE 2LIEVES T
NO?+ WD H 9DUC$ ANY BOY 9 ! S*OOL1 HMF
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DEEPLY _H !Y BE5 IMPRESS$ ) AN IDEA (!
H]ESY1 3TAM9,N1 & EVIL 6BE DERIV$ F
3TACT ) S* A P]SON4 ,6? "D !Y RELATE !
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"O MAN1 :O TOOK AWAY ! FIGURE (! ,VIRG9
,M>Y1 & RETURN$ ! YE> AF = T ( ,/4
,JOSEPH1 SAY+ X 0 A P;Y ! LADY %D N H A
HUSB&4 ,I HE>D AL ( AN OLD LADY :O1 AT A
D9N] AT ,COQUIMBO1 REM>K$ H[ WOND];LLY
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GIRL1 T TWICE1 AT ! M]E CRY ( 8,LOS
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EXTREME QUIET;S4 ,X IS SD 63TA9 F #FJJJ
6#HJJJ 9HABITANTS4 ,ON ! MORN+ (! #AG? X
RA9$ LI<TLY1 ! F/ "T ? YE>1 = AB FIVE
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COA/ ": ! ATMOSPH]E IS MO/ HUMID1 TAK+
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A SECOND !Y WD PUT ! SE$ IN2 & IF A ?IRD
%[] %D FALL1 !Y WD R1P A GD H>VE/ 9 !
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! GR.D APPE>$ Z DRY Z "E2 YET AF AN
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ON A HI< ROAD4
  ,9 ! EV5+1 ,CAPTA9 ,FITZ ,ROY & MYF 7
D9+ ) ,MR4 ,$W>DS1 AN ,5GLI% RESID5T
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T]ROR1 & "O G5TLEMAN SD HE %D N 2 A#
6SLEEP ALL NI<T1 OR IF HE DID1 X WD ONLY
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_H LATELY LO/ ALL 8 PROP]TY AT
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FALL+ RO( AT ,VALP>AISO1 9 #AHBB4 ,HE
M5;N$ A CURI\S CO9CID;E : !N HAPP5$3 HE
0 PLAY+ AT C>DS1 :5 A ,G]MAN1 "O (! "PY1
GOT UP1 & SD HE WD N"E SIT 9 A ROOM 9 ^!
C.TRIES )! DOOR %UT1 Z [+ 6HIS HAV+ D"O
S1 HE _H NE>LY LO/ 8 LIFE AT ,COPIAPO4
,ACLY HE OP5$ ! DOOR2 & NO SOON] _H HE
D"O ?1 ?AN HE CRI$ \1 8,"H X -ES AG60 &!
FAM\S %OCK -M;ED4 ,! :OLE "PY ESCAP$4 ,!
DANG] 9 AN E>?QUAKE IS N F ! "T LO/ 9
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  ,X IS IMPOSSI# 6BE M* SURPRIS$ AT !
FE> : NATIVES & OLD RESID5TS1 ?\< "S (
!M "KN 6BE M5 ( GRT -M& ( M9D1 S G5],Y
EXP]I;E DUR+ E>?QUAKES4 ,I ?9K1 H["E1 ?
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FEEL+ !Y >E A%AM$ (4 ,9DE$1 ! NATIVES D
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SM>T %OCK1 "K+ T "! 0 NO DANG]1 DID N
RISE4 ,! NATIVES CRI$ \ 9DIGNANTLY1
8,LOOK AT ^? H]ETICS1 !Y D N EV5 GET \ (
_! B$S60
  ,I SP5T "S "DS 9 EXAM9+ ! /EP-=M$
T]RACES ( %+LE1 F/ NOTIC$ 0,CAPTA9 ,B4
,HALL1 & 2LIEV$ 0,MR4 ,LYELL 6H BE5 =M$
0! SEA1 DUR+ ! GRADUAL RIS+ (! L&4 ,?
C]TA9LY IS ! TRUE EXPLAN,N1 = ,I F.D
NUM]\S %ELLS ( EXI/+ SPECIES ON ^!
T]RACES4 ,FIVE N>R[1 G5TLY SLOP+1 FR+E-L
T]RACES RISE "O 2H ! O!R1 & ": BE/
DEVELOP$ >E =M$ ( %+LE3 !Y FRONT ! BAY1
& SWEEP UP BO? SIDES (! VALLEY4 ,AT
,GUASCO1 NOR? ( ,COQUIMBO1 ! PH5OM5ON IS
4PLAY$ ON A M* GR&] SCALE1 S Z 6/RIKE )
SURPRISE EV5 "S (! 9HABITANTS4 ,!
T]RACES >E "! M* BROAD]1 & MAY 2 CALL$
PLA9S1 9 "S "PS "! >E SIX ( !M1 B G5],Y
ONLY FIVE2 !Y RUN UP ! VALLEY = ?IRTY-
SEV5 MILES F ! COA/4 ,^! /EP-=M$ T]RACES
OR FR+ES CLOSELY RESEM# ^? 9 ! VALLEY (
,S4 ,CRUZ1 &1 EXCEPT 9 2+ ON A SMALL]
SCALE1 ^? GRT "OS AL;G ! :OLE COA/-L9E (
,PATAGONIA4 ,!Y H UND\BT$LY BE5 =M$ 0!
DENUD+ P[] (! SEA1 DUR+ L;G P]IODS ( RE/
9 ! GRADUAL ELEV,N (! 3T95T4
  ,%ELLS ( _M EXI/+ SPECIES N ONLY LIE
ON ! SURFACE (! T]RACES AT ,COQUIMBO 76A
HEI<T ( #BEJ FEET71 B >E EMB$D$ 9 A
FRIA# CALC>E\S ROCK1 : 9 "S PLACES IS Z
M* Z 2T TW5TY & ?IRTY FEET 9 ?ICK;S1 B
IS ( LL EXT5T4 ,^! MOD]N B$S RE/ ON AN
ANCI5T T]TI>Y =M,N 3TA9+ %ELLS1 APP>5TLY
ALL EXT9CT4 ,AL? ,I EXAM9$ S _M HUNDR$
MILES ( COA/ ON ! ,PACIFIC1 Z WELL Z
,ATLANTIC SIDE (! 3T95T1 ,I F.D NO
REGUL> /RATA 3TA9+ SEA-%ELLS ( REC5T
SPECIES1 EXCEPT+ AT ? PLACE1 & AT A FEW
PO9TS NOR?W>D ON ! ROAD 6,GUASCO4 ,?
FACT APPE>S 6ME HI<LY REM>KA#2 =!
EXPLAN,N G5],Y GIV5 0GEOLOGI/S1 (! ABS;E
9 ANY 4TRICT ( /RATIFI$ FOSSILIF]\S
DEPOSITS (A GIV5 P]IOD1 "NLY1 T !
SURFACE !N EXI/$ Z DRY L&1 IS N "H
APPLICA#2 = WE "K F ! %ELLS /REW$ ON !
SURFACE & EMB$D$ 9 LOOSE S& OR M\LD T !
L& = ?\S&S ( MILES AL;G BO? COA/S HAS
LATELY BE5 SUBM]G$4 ,! EXPLAN,N1 NO
D\BT1 M/ 2 S"\ 9 ! FACT1 T ! :OLE S\!RN
"P (! 3T95T HAS BE5 =A L;G "T SL[LY
RIS+2 & "!=E T ALL MATT] DEPOSIT$ AL;G
%ORE 9 %ALL[ WAT]1 M/ H BE5 SOON BR"\ UP
& SL[LY EXPOS$ 6! WE>+ AC;N (! SEA-B1*2
& X IS ONLY 9 -P>ATIVELY %ALL[ WAT] T !
GRT] NUMB] ( M>9E ORGANIC 2+S C FL\RI%1
& 9 S* WAT] X IS OBVI\SLY IMPOSSI# T
/RATA ( ANY GRT ?ICK;S C A3UMULATE4 ,6%[
! VA/ P[] (! WE>+ AC;N ( SEA-B1*ES1 WE
NE$ ONLY APP1L 6! GRT CLI6S AL;G !
PRES5T COA/ ( ,PATAGONIA1 & 6! ESC>P;TS
OR ANCI5T SEA-CLI6S AT DI6]5T LEVELS1 "O
ABV ANO!R1 ON T SAME L9E ( COA/4
  ,! OLD "ULY+ T]TI>Y =M,N AT ,COQUIMBO1
APPE>S 6BE ( AB ! SAME AGE ) S"EAL
DEPOSITS ON ! COA/ ( ,*ILE 7( : T (
,NAV$AD IS ! PR9CIPAL "O71 &)! GRT =M,N
( ,PATAGONIA4 ,BO? AT ,NAV$AD & 9
,PATAGONIA "! IS EVID;E1 T S9CE ! %ELLS
7A LI/ ( : HAS BE5 SE5 0,PROFESSOR ,E4
,=BES7 "! 5TOMB$ 7 LIV+1 "! HAS BE5 A
SUBSID;E ( S"EAL HUNDR$ FEET1 Z WELL Z
AN 5SU+ ELEV,N4 ,X MAY NATUR,Y 2 ASK$1
H[ X -ES T1 AL? NO EXT5SIVE FOSSILIF]\S
DEPOSITS (! REC5T P]IOD1 NOR ( ANY P]IOD
9T]M$IATE 2T X &! ANCI5T T]TI>Y EPO*1 H
BE5 PRES]V$ ON EI SIDE (! 3T95T1 YET T
AT ? ANCI5T T]TI>Y EPO*1 S$I;T>Y MATT]
3TA9+ FOSSIL REMA9S1 %D H BE5 DEPOSIT$ &
PRES]V$ AT DI6]5T PO9TS 9 NOR? & S\?
L9ES1 OV] A SPACE ( #AAJJ MILES ON !
%ORES (! ,PACIFIC1 &( AT L1/ #ACEJ MILES
ON ! %ORES (! ,ATLANTIC1 & 9 AN EA/ &
WE/ L9E ( #GJJ MILES ACR ! WIDE/ "P (!
3T95T8 ,I 2LIEVE ! EXPLAN,N IS N
DI6ICULT1 & T X IS P]H APPLICA# 6NE>LY
ANALOG\S FACTS OBS]V$ 9 O!R QU>T]S (!
_W4 ,3SID]+ ! ENORM\S P[] ( DENUD,N : !
SEA POSSESSES1 Z %[N 0NUMB].S FACTS1 X
IS N PROBA# T A S$I;T>Y DEPOSIT1 :5 2+
UPRAIS$1 CD PASS "? ! ORD1L (! B1*1 S Z
6BE PRES]V$ 9 SU6ICI5T MASSES 6LA/ 6A
4TANT P]IOD1 )\T X 7 ORIG9,Y ( WIDE
EXT5T &( 3SID]A# ?ICK;S3 N[ X IS
IMPOSSI# ON A MOD]ATELY %ALL[ BOTTOM1 :
AL"O IS FAV\RA# 6MO/ LIV+ CR1TURES1 T A
?ICK & WIDELY EXT5D$ COV]+ ( S$I;T CD 2
SPR1D \1 )\T ! BOTTOM SANK D[N 6RCV !
SU3ESSIVE LAY]S4 ,? SEEMS 6H ACTU,Y TAK5
PLACE AT AB ! SAME P]IOD 9 S\!RN
,PATAGONIA & ,*ILE1 ?\< ^! PLACES >E A
?\S& MILES A"P4 ,H;E1 IF PROL;G$ MOVE;TS
( APPROXIMATELY 3TEMPORANE\S SUBSID;E >E
G5],Y WIDELY EXT5SIVE1 Z ,I AM /R;GLY
9CL9$ 62LIEVE F MY EXAM9,N (! ,CORAL
,REEFS (! GRT OC1NS--OR IF1 3F9+ \R VIEW
6,S\? ,AM]ICA1 ! SUBSID+ MOVE;TS H BE5
COEXT5SIVE ) ^? ( ELEV,N1 0:1 )9 ! SAME
P]IOD ( EXI/+ %ELLS1 ! %ORES ( ,P]U1
,*ILE1 ,TI]RA DEL ,FUEGO1 ,PATAGONIA1 &
,LA ,PLATA H BE5 UPRAIS$--!N WE C SEE T
AT ! SAME "T1 AT F> 4TANT PO9TS1
CIRCUM/.ES WD H BE5 FAV\RA# 6! =M,N (
FOSSILIF]\S DEPOSITS ( WIDE EXT5T &(
3SID]A# ?ICK;S2 & S* DEPOSITS1
3SEQU5TLY1 WD H A GD *.E ( RESI/+ ! WE>
& TE> ( SU3ESSIVE B1*-L9ES1 &( LA/+ 6A
FUTURE EPO*4
  ,MAY #BA/4--,I SET \ 9 -PANY ) ,DON
,JOSE ,$W>DS 6! SILV]-M9E ( ,>QU]OS1 &
?;E UP ! VALLEY ( ,COQUIMBO4 ,PASS+ "? A
M.TA9\S C.TRY1 WE R1*$ 0NI<TFALL ! M9ES
2L;G+ 6,MR4 ,$W>DS4 ,I 5JOY$ MY NI<T'S
RE/ "H F A R1SON : W N 2 FULLY
APPRECIAT$ 9 ,5GL&1 "NLY1 ! ABS;E (
FL1S6 ,! ROOMS 9 ,COQUIMBO SW>M ) !M2 B
!Y W N LIVE "H AT ! HEI<T ( ONLY ?REE OR
F\R ?\S& FEET3 X C SC>CELY 2 ! TRIFL+
DIM9U;N ( TEMP]ATURE1 B "S O!R CAUSE :
DE/ROYS ^! TR\#"S 9SECTS AT ? PLACE4 ,!
M9ES >E N[ 9 A BAD /ATE1 ?\< !Y =M]LY
YIELD$ AB #BJJJ P.DS 9 WEI<T ( SILV] A
YE>4 ,X HAS BE5 SD T 8A P]SON )A COPP]-
M9E W GA92 ) SILV] HE MAY GA92 B ) GOLD
HE IS SURE 6LOSE40 ,? IS N TRUE3 ALL !
L>GE ,*ILIAN =TUNES H BE5 MADE 0M9ES (!
M PRECI\S METALS4 ,A %ORT "T S9CE AN
,5GLI% PHYSICIAN RETURN$ 6,5GL& F
,COPIAPO1 TAK+ ) HM ! PR(ITS ( "O %>E (A
SILV]-M9E1 : AM.T$ 6AB #BD1JJJ P.DS
/]L+4 ,NO D\BT A COPP]-M9E ) C>E IS A
SURE GAME1 ":AS ! O!R IS GAMBL+1 OR R
TAK+ A TICKET 9 A LOTT]Y4 ,! [N]S LOSE
GRT QUANTITIES ( RI* ORES2 = NO
PRECAU;NS C PREV5T RO2]IES4 ,I HE>D (A
G5TLEMAN LAY+ A BET ) ANO!R1 T "O ( 8 M5
%D ROB HM 2F 8 FACE4 ,! ORE :5 BR"\ \ (!
M9E IS BROK5 96PIECES1 &! USE.S /"O ?R[N
ON "O SIDE4 ,A C\PLE (! M9]S :O 7 ?US
EMPLOY$1 PIT*$1 Z IF 0A3ID5T1 TWO
FRAG;TS AWAY AT ! SAME MO;T1 & !N CRI$ \
=A JOKE 8,LET U SEE : ROLLS FUR!/40 ,!
[N]1 :O 0 /&+ BY1 BET A CIG> ) 8 FR ON !
RACE4 ,! M9] 0? M1NS WAT*$ ! V PO9T
AM;G/ ! RU2I% ": ! /"O LAY4 ,9 ! EV5+ HE
PICK$ X UP & C>RI$ X 6HIS MA/]1 %[+ HM A
RI* MASS ( SILV]-ORE1 & SAY+1 8,? 0 !
/"O ON : Y WON A CIG> 0XS ROLL+ S F>40
  ,MAY #BCRD4--,WE DESC5D$ 96! F]TILE
VALLEY ( ,COQUIMBO1 & FOLL[$ X TILL WE
R1*$ AN ,HACI5DA 2L;G+ 6A REL,N ( ,DON
,JOSE1 ": WE /AY$ ! NEXT "D4 ,I !N RODE
"O "D'S J\RNEY FUR!R1 6SEE :AT 7 DCLD
6BE "S PETRIFI$ %ELLS & B1NS1 : LATT]
TURN$ \ 6BE SMALL QU>TZ PEB#S4 ,WE PASS$
"? S"EAL SMALL VILLAGES2 &! VALLEY 0
B1UTI;LLY CULTIVAT$1 &! :OLE SC5]Y V
GR&4 ,WE 7 "H NE> ! MA9 ,CORDILL]A1 &!
SURR.D+ HILLS 7 L(TY4 ,9 ALL "PS (
NOR!RN ,*ILE1 FRUIT TREES PRODUCE M* M
ABUNDANTLY AT A 3SID]A# HEI<T NE> ! ,&ES
?AN 9 ! L[] C.TRY4 ,! FIGS & GRAPES ( ?
4TRICT >E FAM\S = _! EXCELL;E1 & >E
CULTIVAT$ 6A GRT EXT5T4 ,? VALLEY IS1
P]H1 ! MO/ PRODUCTIVE "O NOR? (
,QUILLOTA4 ,I 2LIEVE X 3TA9S1 9CLUD+
,COQUIMBO1 #BE1JJJ 9HABITANTS4 ,! NEXT
"D ,I RETURN$ 6! ,HACI5DA1 & ?;E1 TGR )
,DON ,JOSE1 6,COQUIMBO4
  ,JUNE #BND4--,WE SET \ =! VALLEY (
,GUASCO1 FOLL[+ ! COA/-ROAD1 : 0 3SID]$
R LESS DES]T ?AN ! O!R4 ,\R F/ "D'S RIDE
0 6A SOLIT>Y H\SE1 CALL$ ,Y]BA ,BU5A1 ":
"! 0 PA/URE = \R HORSES4 ,! %[] M5;N$ Z
HAV+ FALL51 A =TNI<T AGO1 ONLY R1*$ AB
HALF-WAY 6,GUASCO2 WE _H1 "!=E1 9 ! F/
"P ( \R J\RNEY A MO/ FA9T T+E ( GRE51 :
SOON FAD$ Q AWAY4 ,EV5 ": B"RE/1 X 0
SC>CELY SU6ICI5T 6REM9D "O (! FRE% TURF
& BU4+ FL[]S (! SPR+ ( O!R C.TRIES4
,:ILE TRAVELL+ "? ^! DES]TS "O FEELS L A
PRISON] %UT UP 9 A GLOOMY C\RT1 :O L;GS
6SEE "S?+ GRE5 & 6SMELL A MOI/
ATMOSPH]E4
  ,JUNE #CRD4--,Y]BA ,BU5A 6,C>IZAL4
,DUR+ ! F/ "P (! "D WE CROSS$ A M.TA9\S
ROCKY DES]T1 & AFWS A L;G DEEP S&Y PLA91
/REW$ ) BROK5 S1%ELLS4 ,"! 0 V LL WAT]1
& T LL SAL9E3 ! :OLE C.TRY1 F ! COA/ 6!
,CORDILL]A1 IS AN UN9HABIT$ DES]T4 ,I
SAW TRACES ONLY ( "O LIV+ ANIMAL 9
ABUND.E1 "NLY1 ! %ELLS (A ,BULIMUS1 : 7
COLLECT$ TGR 9 EXTRAORD9>Y NUMB]S ON !
DRIE/ SPOTS4 ,9 ! SPR+ "O HUM# LL PLANT
S5DS \ A FEW L1VES1 & ON ^! ! SNAILS
FE$4 ,Z !Y >E SE5 ONLY V E>LY 9 ! MORN+1
:5 ! GR.D IS SLI<TLY DAMP ) DEW1 !
,GUASCOS 2LIEVE T !Y >E BR$ F X4 ,I H
OBS]V$ 9 O!R PLACES T EXTREMELY DRY &
/]ILE 4TRICTS1 ": ! SOIL IS CALC>E\S1 >E
EXTRAORD9>ILY FAV\RA# 6L&-%ELLS4 ,AT
,C>IZAL "! 7 A FEW COTTAGES1 "S BRACKI%
WAT]1 &A TRACE ( CULTIV,N3 B X 0 )
DI6ICULTY T WE PUR*AS$ A LL CORN & /RAW
= \R HORSES4
  #D?4--,C>IZAL 6,SAUCE4 ,WE 3T9U$ 6RIDE
OV] DES]T PLA9S1 T5ANT$ 0L>GE H]DS (
GUANACO4 ,WE CROSS$ AL ! VALLEY (
,*AN]AL2 :1 AL? ! MO/ F]TILE "O 2T
,GUASCO & ,COQUIMBO1 IS V N>R[1 &
PRODUCES S LL PA/URE1 T WE CD N PUR*ASE
ANY = \R HORSES4 ,AT ,SAUCE WE F.D A V
CIVIL OLD G5TLEMAN1 SUP]9T5D5T (A COPP]-
SMELT+ FURNACE4 ,Z AN ESPECIAL FAV\R1 HE
ALL[$ ME 6PUR*ASE AT A HI< PRICE AN >M;L
( DIRTY /RAW1 : 0 ALL ! POOR HORSES _H =
SUPP] AF _! L;G "D'S J\RNEY4 ,FEW
SMELT+-FURNACES >E N[ AT "W 9 ANY "P (
,*ILE2 X IS F.D M PR(ITA#1 ON A3.T (!
EXTREME SC>C;Y ( FIREWOOD1 & F ! ,*ILIAN
ME?OD ( REDUC;N 2+ S UNSKIL;L1 6%IP !
ORE = ,SWANSEA4 ,! NEXT "D WE CROSS$ "S
M.TA9S 6,FREYR9A1 9 ! VALLEY ( ,GUASCO4
,DUR+ EA* "D'S RIDE FUR!R NOR?W>D1 !
VEGET,N 2CAME M & M SCANTY2 EV5 ! GRT
*&ELI]-L CACTUS 0 "H REPLAC$ 0A DI6]5T &
M* SMALL] SPECIES4 ,DUR+ ! W9T] MON?S1
BO? 9 NOR!RN ,*ILE & 9 ,P]U1 A UNI=M
BANK ( CL\DS HANGS1 AT NO GRT HEI<T1 OV]
! ,PACIFIC4 ,F ! M.TA9S WE _H A V /RIK+
VIEW ( ? :ITE & BRILLIANT AERIAL-FIELD1
: S5T >MS UP ! VALLEYS1 L1V+ ISL&S &
PROMONTORIES 9 ! SAME MANN]1 Z ! SEA
DOES 9 ! ,*ONOS >*IPELAGO & 9 ,TI]RA DEL
,FUEGO4
  ,WE /AY$ TWO "DS AT ,FREYR9A4 ,9 !
VALLEY ( ,GUASCO "! >E F\R SMALL T[NS4
,AT ! M\? "! IS ! PORT1 A SPOT 5TIRELY
DES]T1 & )\T ANY WAT] 9 ! IMM
NEI<B\RHOOD4 ,FIVE L1GUES HI<] UP /&S
,FREYR9A1 A L;G /RA7L+ VILLAGE1 ) DEC5T
:ITEWA%$ H\SES4 ,AG1 T5 L1GUES FUR!R UP
,BALL5> IS SITUAT$1 & ABV ? ,GUASCO
,ALTO1 A HORTICULTURAL VILLAGE1 FAM\S =
XS DRI$ FRUIT4 ,ON A CLE> "D ! VIEW UP !
VALLEY IS V F9E2 ! /RAI<T OP5+ T]M9ATES
9 ! F>-4TANT SN[Y ,CORDILL]A2 ON EA*
SIDE AN 9F9;Y ( CROSS+-L9ES >E BL5D$ TGR
9 A B1UTI;L HAZE4 ,! =EGR.D IS S+UL> F !
NUMB] ( P>ALLEL & /EP-=M$ T]RACES2 &!
9CLUD$ /RIP ( GRE5 VALLEY1 ) XS WILL[-
BU%ES1 IS 3TRA/$ ON BO? H&S )! NAK$
HILLS4 ,T ! SURR.D+ C.TRY 0 MO/ B>R5 W 2
R1DILY 2LIEV$1 :5 X IS "KN T A %[] ( RA9
_H N FALL5 DUR+ ! LA/ ?IRTE5 MON?S4 ,!
9HABITANTS HE>D )! GRTE/ 5VY (! RA9 AT
,COQUIMBO2 F ! APPE>.E (! SKY !Y _H
HOPES ( EQU,Y GD =TUNE1 :1 A =TNI<T
AFWS1 7 R1LIZ$4 ,I 0 AT ,COPIAPO AT !
"T2 & "! ! P1 ) EQUAL 5VY1 TALK$ (!
ABUNDANT RA9 AT ,GUASCO4 ,AF TWO OR ?REE
V DRY YE>S1 P]H ) N M ?AN "O %[] DUR+ !
:OLE "T1 A RA9Y YE> G5],Y FOLL[S2 & ?
DOES M H>M ?AN EV5 ! DR"\4 ,! RIV]S
SWELL1 & COV] ) GRAVEL & S& ! N>R[ /RIPS
( GR.D1 : AL"O >E FIT = CULTIV,N4 ,!
FLOODS AL 9JURE ! IRRIGAT+ DIT*ES4 ,GRT
DEVA/,N _H ?US BE5 CAUS$ ?REE YE>S AGO4
  ,JUNE #H?4--,WE RODE ON 6,BALL5>1 :
TAKES XS "N F ,BALL5A< 9 ,IREL&1 !
BIR?PLACE (! FAMILY ( ,O',HI79S1 :O1 "U
! ,SPANI% GOV]N;T1 7 PRESID5TS & G5]ALS
9 ,*ILE4 ,Z ! ROCKY M.TA9S ON EA* H& 7
3C1L$ 0CL\DS1 ! T]RACE-L PLA9S GAVE 6!
VALLEY AN APPE>.E L T ( ,SANTA ,CRUZ 9
,PATAGONIA4 ,AF SP5D+ "O "D AT ,BALL5>
,I SET \1 ON ! #AJ?1 =! UPP] "P (!
VALLEY ( ,COPIAPO4 ,WE RODE ALL "D OV]
AN UN9T]E/+ C.TRY4 ,I AM TIR$ ( REP1T+ !
EPI!TS B>R5 & /]ILE4 ,^! ^WS1 H["E1 Z
-MONLY US$1 >E -P>ATIVE2 ,I H ALW APPLI$
!M 6! PLA9S ( ,PATAGONIA1 : C BOA/ (
SP9Y BU%ES & "S TUFTS ( GRASS2 & ? IS
ABSOLUTE F]TIL;Y1 Z -P>$ ) NOR!RN ,*ILE4
,"H AG1 "! >E N _M SPACES ( TWO HUNDR$
Y>DS SQU>E1 ": "S LL BU%1 CACTUS OR
LI*51 MAY N 2 4COV]$ 0C>E;L EXAM9,N2 & 9
! SOIL SE$S LIE DORMANT R1DY 6SPR+ UP
DUR+ ! F/ RA9Y W9T]4 ,9 ,P]U R1L DES]TS
O3UR OV] WIDE TRACTS ( C.TRY4 ,9 ! EV5+
WE >RIV$ AT A VALLEY1 9 : ! B$ (!
/R1MLET 0 DAMP3 FOLL[+ X UP1 WE CAME
6TOL]ABLY GD WAT]4 ,DUR+ ! NI<T1 ! /R1M1
F N 2+ EVAPORAT$ & ABSORB$ S QKLY1 FL[S
A L1GUE L[] D[N ?AN DUR+ ! "D4 ,/ICKS 7
PL5TI;L = FIREWOOD1 S T X 0 A GD PLACE
6BIV\AC = U2 B =! POOR ANIMALS "! 0 N A
M\?;L 6EAT4
  ,JUNE #AA?4--,WE RODE )\T /OPP+ =
TWELVE H\RS TILL WE R1*$ AN OLD SMELT+-
FURNACE1 ": "! 0 WAT] & FIREWOOD2 B \R
HORSES AG _H NO?+ 6EAT1 2+ %UT UP 9 AN
OLD C\RTY>D4 ,! L9E ( ROAD 0 HILLY1 &!
4TANT VIEWS 9T]E/+1 F ! V>I$ COL\RS (!
B>E M.TA9S4 ,X 0 ALM A P;Y 6SEE ! SUN
%9+ 3/ANTLY OV] S USE.S A C.TRY2 S*
SPL5DID W1!R "\ 6H B"R5$ FIELDS & PRETTY
G>D5S4 ,! NEXT "D WE R1*$ ! VALLEY (
,COPIAPO4 ,I 0 HE>TILY GLAD ( X2 =! :OLE
J\RNEY 0 A 3T9U$ S\RCE ( ANXIETY2 X 0
MO/ 4AGREEA# 6HE>1 :IL/ EAT+ \R [N
SUPP]S1 \R HORSES GNAW+ ! PO/S 6: !Y 7
TI$1 & 6H NO M1NS ( RELIEV+ _! HUNG]4
,6ALL APPE>.E1 H["E1 ! ANIMALS 7 Q FRE%2
& NO "O CD H TOLD T !Y _H EAT5 NO?+ =!
LA/ FIFTY-FIVE H\RS4
  ,I _H A LR ( 9TRODUC;N 6,MR4 ,B+LEY1
:O RCVD ME V K9DLY AT ! ,HACI5DA (
,POTR]O ,SECO4 ,? E/ATE IS 2T TW5TY &
?IRTY MILES L;G1 B V N>R[1 2+ G5],Y ONLY
TWO FIELDS WIDE1 "O ON EA* SIDE ! RIV]4
,9 "S "PS ! E/ATE IS ( NO WID?1 T IS
6SAY1 ! L& _C 2 IRRIGAT$1 & "!=E IS
VALUE.S1 L ! SURR.D+ ROCKY DES]T4 ,!
SMALL QUANT;Y ( CULTIVAT$ L& 9 ! :OLE
L9E ( VALLEY1 DOES N S M* DEP5D ON
9EQUALITIES ( LEVEL1 & 3SEQU5T UNFIT;S =
IRRIG,N1 Z ON ! SMALL SUPPLY ( WAT]4 ,!
RIV] ? YE> 0 REM>KABLY FULL3 "H1 HI< UP
! VALLEY1 X R1*$ 6! HORSE'S BELLY1 & 0
AB FIFTE5 Y>DS WIDE1 & RAPID2 L[] D[N X
2COMES SMALL] & SMALL]1 & IS G5],Y Q
LO/1 Z HAPP5$ DUR+ "O P]IOD ( ?IRTY
YE>S1 S T N A DROP 5T]$ ! SEA4 ,!
9HABITANTS WAT* A /ORM OV] ! ,CORDILL]A
) GRT 9T]E/2 Z "O GD FALL ( SN[ PROVIDES
!M ) WAT] =! 5SU+ YE>4 ,? IS ( 9F9ITELY
M 3SEQU;E ?AN RA9 9 ! L[] C.TRY4 ,RA91 Z
(T5 Z X FALLS1 : IS AB ONCE 9 E TWO OR
?REE YE>S1 IS A GRT ADVANTAGE1 2C !
CATTLE & MULES C = "S "T AFWS F9D A LL
PA/URE 9 ! M.TA9S4 ,B )\T SN[ ON ! ,&ES1
DESOL,N EXT5DS "?\T ! VALLEY4 ,X IS ON
RECORD T ?REE "TS NE>LY ALL ! 9HABITANTS
H BE5 OBLIG$ 6EMIGRATE 6! S\?4 ,? YE> "!
0 PL5TY ( WAT]1 & E MAN IRRIGAT$ 8 GR.D
Z M* Z HE *OSE2 B X HAS FREQU5TLY BE5
NEC 6PO/ SOLDI]S AT ! SLUICES1 6SEE T
EA* E/ATE TOOK ONLY XS PROP] ALL[.E DUR+
S _M H\RS 9 ! WEEK4 ,! VALLEY IS SD
63TA9 #AB1JJJ S\LS1 B XS PRODUCE IS
SU6ICI5T ONLY = ?REE MON?S 9 ! YE>2 !
RE/ (! SUPPLY 2+ DRAWN F ,VALP>AISO &!
S\?4 ,2F ! 4COV]Y (! FAM\S SILV]-M9ES (
,*ANUNCILLO1 ,COPIAPO 0 9 A RAPID /ATE (
DECAY2 B N[ X IS 9 A V ?RIV+ 3DI;N2 &!
T[N1 : 0 -PLETELY OV]?R[N 0AN E>?QUAKE1
HAS BE5 REBUILT4
  ,! VALLEY ( ,COPIAPO1 =M+ A M]E RI2ON
( GRE5 9 A DES]T1 RUNS 9 A V S\!RLY
DIREC;N2 S T X IS ( 3SID]A# L5G? 6XS
S\RCE 9 ! ,CORDILL]A4 ,! VALLEYS (
,GUASCO & ,COPIAPO MAY BO? 2 3SID]$ Z
L;G N>R[ ISL&S1 SEP>AT$ F ! RE/ ( ,*ILE
0DES]TS ( ROCK 9/1D ( 0SALT WAT]4
,NOR?W>D ( ^!1 "! IS "O O!R V MIS]A#
VALLEY1 CALL$ ,PAPOSO1 : 3TA9S AB TWO
HUNDR$ S\LS2 & !N "! EXT5DS ! R1L DES]T
( ,ATACAMA--A B>RI] F> WORSE ?AN ! MO/
TURBUL5T OC1N4 ,AF /AY+ A FEW "DS AT
,POTR]O ,SECO1 ,I PROCE$$ UP ! VALLEY 6!
H\SE ( ,DON ,2NITO ,CRUZ1 6:OM ,I _H A
LR ( 9TRODUC;N4 ,I F.D HM MO/ HOSPITA#2
9DE$ X IS IMPOSSI# 6BE> TOO /R;G
TE/IMONY 6! K9D;S ) : TRAVELL]S >E RCVD
9 ALM E "P ( ,S\? ,AM]ICA4 ,! NEXT "D ,I
HIR$ "S MULES 6TAKE ME 0! RAV9E (
,JOLQU]A 96! C5TRAL ,CORDILL]A4 ,ON !
SECOND NI<T ! W1!R SEEM$ 6=ETELL A /ORM
( SN[ OR RA91 & :IL/ LY+ 9 \R B$S WE
FELT A TRIFL+ %OCK ( AN E>?QUAKE4
  ,! 3NEC;N 2T E>?QUAKES &! W1!R HAS BE5
(T5 4PUT$3 X APPE>S 6ME 6BE A PO9T ( GRT
9T]E/1 : IS LL "U/OOD4 ,HUMBOLDT HAS
REM>K$ 9 "O "P (! ,P]SONAL ,N>RATIVE1
,7#A7' T X WD 2 DI6ICULT = ANY P]SON :O
_H L;G RESID$ 9 ,NEW ,&ALUSIA1 OR 9 ,L[]
,P]U1 6D5Y T "! EXI/S "S 3NEC;N 2T ^!
PH5OM5A3 9 ANO!R "P1 H["E HE SEEMS 6?9K
! 3NEC;N FANCI;L4 ,AT ,GUAYAQUIL X IS SD
T A H1VY %[] 9 ! DRY S1SON IS 9V>IABLY
FOLL[$ 0AN E>?QUAKE4 ,9 ,NOR!RN ,*ILE1 F
! EXTREME 9FREQU5CY ( RA91 OR EV5 ( W1!R
=EBOD+ RA91 ! PROBABIL;Y ( A3ID5TAL
CO9CID;ES 2COMES V SMALL2 YET !
9HABITANTS >E "H MO/ FIRMLY 3V9C$ ( "S
3NEC;N 2T ! /ATE (! ATMOSPH]E &(!
TREMBL+ (! GR.D3 ,I 0 M* /RUCK 0? :5
M5;N+ 6"S P AT ,COPIAPO T "! _H BE5 A
%>P %OCK AT ,COQUIMBO3 !Y IMMLY CRI$ \1
8,H[ =TUNATE6 "! W 2 PL5TY ( PA/URE "! ?
YE>40 ,6_! M9DS AN E>?QUAKE =ETOLD RA9 Z
SURELY Z RA9 =ETOLD ABUNDANT PA/URE4
,C]TA9LY X DID S HAPP5 T ON ! V "D (!
E>?QUAKE1 T %[] ( RA9 FELL1 : ,I H
DESCRIB$ Z 9 T5 "DS' "T PRODUC+ A ?9
SPR9KL+ ( GRASS4 ,AT O!R "TS RA9 HAS
FOLL[$ E>?QUAKES AT A P]IOD (! YE> :5 X
IS A F> GRT] PRODIGY ?AN ! E>?QUAKE XF3
? HAPP5$ AF ! %OCK ( ,NOVEMB]1 #AHBB1 &
AG 9 #AHBI1 AT ,VALP>AISO2 AL AF T (
,SEPTEMB]1 #AHCC1 AT ,TACNA4 ,A P]SON M/
2 "S:AT HABITUAT$ 6! CLIMATE ( ^!
C.TRIES 6P]CV ! EXTREME IMPROBABIL;Y (
RA9 FALL+ AT S* S1SONS1 EXCEPT Z A
3SEQU;E ( "S LAW Q UNCONNECT$ )! ORD9>Y
C\RSE (! W1!R4 ,9 ! CASES ( GRT VOLCANIC
ERUP;NS1 Z T ( ,COSEGU9A1 ": TORR5TS (
RA9 FELL AT A "T (! YE> MO/ UNUSUAL = X1
& 8ALM UNPREC$5T$ 9 ,C5TRAL ,AM]ICA10 X
IS N DI6ICULT 6"U/& T ! VOLUMES ( VAP\R
& CL\DS ( A%ES MI<T H 4TURB$ !
ATMOSPH]IC EQUILIBRIUM4 ,HUMBOLDT EXT5DS
? VIEW 6! CASE ( E>?QUAKES UNA3OMPANI$
0ERUP;NS2 B ,I C H>DLY 3CV X POSSI#1 T !
SMALL QUANT;Y ( AERI=M FLUIDS : !N
ESCAPE F ! FISSUR$ GR.D1 C PRODUCE S*
REM>KA# E6ECTS4 ,"! APPE>S M* PROBABIL;Y
9 ! VIEW F/ PROPOS$ 0,MR4 ,P4 ,SCROPE1 T
:5 ! B>OMET] IS L[1 & :5 RA9 MI<T
NATUR,Y 2 EXPECT$ 6FALL1 ! DIM9I%$
PRESSURE (! ATMOSPH]E OV] A WIDE EXT5T (
C.TRY1 MI<T WELL DET]M9E ! PRECISE "D ON
: ! E>?1 ALR /RET*$ 6! UTMO/ 0!
SUBT]RAN1N =CES1 %D YIELD1 CRACK1 &
3SEQU5TLY TREM#4 ,X IS1 H["E1 D\BT;L H[
F> ? IDEA W EXPLA9 ! CIRCUM/.ES (
TORR5TS ( RA9 FALL+ 9 ! DRY S1SON DUR+
S"EAL "DS1 AF AN E>?QUAKE UNA3OMPANI$
0AN ERUP;N2 S* CASES SEEM 62SP1K "S M
9TIMATE 3NEC;N 2T ! ATMOSPH]IC &
SUBT]RAN1N REGIONS4
  ,F9D+ LL ( 9T]E/ 9 ? "P (! RAV9E1 WE
RETRAC$ \R /EPS 6! H\SE ( ,DON ,2NITO1
": ,I /AY$ TWO "DS COLLECT+ FOSSIL %ELLS
& WOOD4 ,GRT PRO/RATE SILICIFI$ TRUNKS (
TREES1 EMB$D$ 9 A 3GLOM]ATE1 7
EXTRAORD9>ILY NUM]\S4 ,I M1SUR$ "O1 : 0
FIFTE5 FEET 9 CIRCUMF];E3 H[ SURPRIS+ X
IS T E ATOM (! WOODY MATT] 9 ? GRT
CYL9D] %D H BE5 REMOV$ & REPLAC$ 0SILEX
S P]FECTLY1 T EA* VESSEL & PORE IS
PRES]V$6 ,^! TREES FL\RI%$ AT AB ! P]IOD
( \R L[] *ALK2 !Y ALL 2L;G$ 6! FIR-
TRIBE4 ,X 0 AMUS+ 6HE> ! 9HABITANTS
4CUSS+ ! NATURE (! FOSSIL %ELLS : ,I
COLLECT$1 ALM 9 ! SAME T]MS Z 7 US$ A
C5TURY AGO 9 ,EUROPE1--"NLY1 :E!R OR N
!Y _H BE5 ?US 8BORN 0NATURE40 ,MY
GEOLOGICAL EXAM9,N (! C.TRY G5],Y CR1T$
A GD D1L ( SURPRISE AM;G/ ! ,*IL5OS3 X 0
L;G 2F !Y CD 2 3V9C$ T ,I 0 N HUNT+ =
M9ES4 ,? 0 "S"TS TR\#"S3 ,I F.D ! MO/
R1DY WAY ( EXPLA9+ MY EMPLOY;T1 0 6ASK
!M H[ X 0 T !Y !MVS 7 N CURI\S 3C]N+
E>?QUAKES & VOLCANOS8--:Y "S SPR+S 7 HOT
& O!RS COLD8--:Y "! 7 M.TA9S 9 ,*ILE1 &
N A HILL 9 ,LA ,PLATA8 ,^! B>E "QS AT
ONCE SATISFI$ & SIL;ED ! GRT] NUMB]2 "S1
H["E 7L A FEW 9 ,5GL& :O >E A C5TURY
2HH&71 ?"\ T ALL S* 9QUIRIES 7 USE.S &
IMPI\S2 & T X 0 Q SU6ICI5T T ,GOD _H ?US
MADE ! M.TA9S4
  ,AN ORD] _H REC5TLY BE5 ISSU$ T ALL
/RAY DOGS %D 2 KILL$1 & WE SAW _M LY+
D1D ON ! ROAD4 ,A GRT NUMB] _H LATELY
G"O MAD1 & S"EAL M5 _H BE5 BITT5 & _H
DI$ 9 3SEQU;E4 ,ON S"EAL O3A.NS
HYDROPHOBIA HAS PREVAIL$ 9 ? VALLEY4 ,X
IS REM>KA# ?US 6F9D S /RANGE & DR1D;L A
41SE1 APPE>+ "T AF "T 9 ! SAME ISOLAT$
SPOT4 ,X HAS BE5 REM>K$ T C]TA9 VILLAGES
9 ,5GL& >E 9 L MANN] M* M SUBJECT 6?
VISIT,N ?AN O!RS4 ,DR4 ,UNANUE /ATES T
HYDROPHOBIA 0 F/ "KN 9 ,S\? ,AM]ICA 9
#AHJC3 ? /ATE;T IS CORROBORAT$ 0,AZ>A &
,ULLOA HAV+ N"E HE>D ( X 9 _! "T4 ,DR4
,UNANUE SAYS T X BROKE \ 9 ,C5TRAL
,AM]ICA1 & SL[LY TRAVELL$ S\?W>D4 ,X
R1*$ ,>EQUIPA 9 #AHJG2 & X IS SD T "S M5
"!1 :O _H N BE5 BITT51 7 A6ECT$1 Z 7 "S
NEGROES1 :O _H EAT5 A BULLOCK : _H DI$ (
HYDROPHOBIA4 ,AT ,ICA =TY-TWO P ?US
MIS]ABLY P]I%$4 ,! 41SE CAME ON 2T
TWELVE & N9ETY "DS AF ! BITE2 & 9 ^?
CASES ": X DID -E ON1 D1? 5SU$ 9V>IABLY
)9 FIVE "DS4 ,AF #AHJH1 A L;G 9T]VAL
5SU$ )\T ANY CASES4 ,ON 9QUIRY1 ,I DID N
HE> ( HYDROPHOBIA 9 ,VAN ,DIEM5'S ,L&1
OR 9 ,AU/RALIA2 & ,BUR*ELL SAYS1 T DUR+
! FIVE YE>S HE 0 AT ! ,CAPE ( ,GD ,HOPE1
HE N"E HE>D ( AN 9/.E ( X4 ,WEB/] ASS]TS
T AT ! ,AZORES HYDROPHOBIA HAS N"E
O3URR$2 &! SAME ASS];N HAS BE5 MADE )
RESPECT 6,MAURITIUS & ,/4 ,HEL5A4 ,7#B7'
,9 S /RANGE A 41SE "S 9=M,N MI<T
POSSIBLY 2 GA9$ 03SID]+ ! CIRCUM/.ES "U
: X ORIG9ATES 9 4TANT CLIMATES2 = X IS
IMPROBA# T A DOG ALR BITT51 %D H BE5
BR"\ 6^! 4TANT C.TRIES4
  ,AT NI<T1 A /RANG] >RIV$ AT ! H\SE (
,DON ,2NITO1 & ASK$ P]MIS.N 6SLEEP "!4
,HE SD HE _H BE5 W&]+ AB ! M.TA9S =
SEV5TE5 "DS1 HAV+ LO/ 8 WAY4 ,HE />T$ F
,GUASCO1 & 2+ A3U/OM$ 6TRAVELL+ 9 !
,CORDILL]A1 DID N EXPECT ANY DI6ICULTY 9
FOLL[+ ! TRACK 6,COPIAPO2 B HE SOON
2CAME 9VOLV$ 9 A LABYR9? ( M.TA9S1 :;E
HE CD N ESCAPE4 ,"S ( 8 MULES _H FALL5
OV] PRECIPICES1 & HE _H BE5 9 GRT
4TRESS4 ,8 *IEF DI6ICULTY >OSE F N "K+
": 6F9D WAT] 9 ! L[] C.TRY1 S T HE 0
OBLIG$ 6KEEP BORD]+ ! C5TRAL RANGES4
  ,WE RETURN$ D[N ! VALLEY1 & ON ! #BBND
R1*$ ! T[N ( ,COPIAPO4 ,! L[] "P (!
VALLEY IS BROAD1 =M+ A F9E PLA9 L T (
,QUILLOTA4 ,! T[N COV]S A 3SID]A# SPACE
( GR.D1 EA* H\SE POSSESS+ A G>D53 B X IS
AN UNCOM=TA# PLACE1 &! DWELL+S >E POORLY
FURNI%$4 ,E "O SEEMS B5T ON ! "O OBJECT
( MAK+ M"OY1 & !N MIGRAT+ Z QKLY Z
POSSI#4 ,ALL ! 9HABITANTS >E M OR LESS
DIRECTLY 3C]N$ ) M9ES2 & M9ES & ORES >E
! SOLE SUBJECTS ( 3V]S,N4 ,NECESS>IES (
ALL SORTS >E EXTREMELY DE>2 Z ! 4T.E F !
T[N 6! PORT IS EI<TE5 L1GUES1 &! L&
C>RIAGE V EXP5SIVE4 ,A F[L CO/S FIVE OR
SIX %ILL+S2 M1T IS NE>LY Z DE> Z 9
,5GL&2 FIREWOOD1 OR R /ICKS1 >E BR"\ ON
DONKEYS F A 4T.E ( TWO & ?REE "DS'
J\RNEY )9 ! ,CORDILL]A2 & PA/URAGE =
ANIMALS IS A %ILL+ A "D3 ALL ? = ,S\?
,AM]ICA IS WOND];LLY EXORBITANT4
  ,JUNE #BF?4--,I HIR$ A GUIDE & EI<T
MULES 6TAKE ME 96! ,CORDILL]A 0A DI6]5T
L9E F MY LA/ EXCUR.N4 ,Z ! C.TRY 0
UTT]LY DES]T1 WE TOOK A C>GO &A HALF (
B>LEY MIX$ ) *OPP$ /RAW4 ,AB TWO L1GUES
ABV ! T[N A BROAD VALLEY CALL$ !
8,DESPOBLADO10 OR UN9HABIT$1 BRAN*ES (F
F T "O 0: WE _H >RIV$4 ,AL? A VALLEY (!
GR&E/ DIM5.NS1 & L1D+ 6A PASS ACR !
,CORDILL]A1 YET X IS -PLETELY DRY1
EXCEPT+ P]H =A FEW "DS DUR+ "S V RA9Y
W9T]4 ,! SIDES (! CRUMBL+ M.TA9S 7
FURR[$ 0SC>CELY ANY RAV9ES2 &! BOTTOM (!
MA9 VALLEY1 FILL$ ) %+LE1 0 SMOO? &
NE>LY LEVEL4 ,NO 3SID]A# TORR5T CD "E H
FL[$ D[N ? B$ ( %+LE2 = IF X _H1 A GRT
CLIFF-B.D$ *ANNEL1 Z 9 ALL ! S\!RN
VALLEYS1 WD ASSUR$LY H BE5 =M$4 ,I FEEL
LL D\BT T ? VALLEY1 Z WELL Z ^? M5;N$
0TRAVELL]S 9 ,P]U1 7 LEFT 9 ! /ATE WE N[
SEE !M 0! WAVES (! SEA1 Z ! L& SL[LY
ROSE4 ,I OBS]V$ 9 "O PLACE1 ": !
,DESPOBLADO 0 JO9$ 0A RAV9E 7: 9 ALM ANY
O!R *A9 WD H BE5 CALL$ A GR& VALLEY71 T
XS B$1 ?\< -POS$ M]ELY ( S& & GRAVEL1 0
HI<] ?AN T ( XS TRIBUT>Y4 ,A M]E RIVULET
( WAT]1 9 ! C\RSE ( AN H\R1 WD H CUT A
*ANNEL = XF2 B X 0 EVID5T T AGES _H
PASS$ AWAY1 & NO S* RIVULET _H DRA9$ ?
GRT TRIBUT>Y4 ,X 0 CURI\S 62HOLD !
MA*9]Y1 IF S* A T]M MAY 2 US$1 =!
DRA9AGE1 ALL1 )! LA/ TRIFL+ EXCEP;N1
P]FECT1 YET )\T ANY SIGNS ( AC;N4 ,E "O
M/ H REM>K$ H[ MUD-BANKS1 LEFT 0! RETIR+
TIDE1 IMITATE 9 M9IATURE A C.TRY ) HILL
& DALE2 & "H WE H ! ORIG9AL MODEL 9
ROCK1 =M$ Z ! 3T95T ROSE DUR+ ! SECUL>
RETIRE;T (! OC1N1 9/1D ( DUR+ ! E2+ &
FL[+ (! TIDES4 ,IF A %[] ( RA9 FALLS ON
! MUD-BANK1 :5 LEFT DRY1 X DEEP5S ! ALR-
=M$ %ALL[ L9ES ( EXCAV,N2 & S X IS )!
RA9 ( SU3ESSIVE C5TURIES ON ! BANK (
ROCK & SOIL1 : WE CALL A 3T95T4
  ,WE RODE ON AF X 0 D>K1 TILL WE R1*$ A
SIDE RAV9E )A SMALL WELL1 CALL$ 8,AGUA
AM>GA40 ,! WAT] DES]V$ XS "N1 = 2SS 2+
SAL9E X 0 MO/ (F5SIVELY PUTRID & BITT]2
S T WE CD N =CE \RVS 6DR9K EI TEA OR
MATE4 ,I SUPPOSE ! 4T.E F ! RIV] (
,COPIAPO 6? SPOT 0 AT L1/ TW5TY-FIVE OR
?IRTY ,5GLI% MILES2 9 ! :OLE SPACE "! 0
N A S+LE DROP ( WAT]1 ! C.TRY DES]V+ !
"N ( DES]T 9 ! /RICTE/ S5SE4 ,YET AB
HALF WAY WE PASS$ "S OLD ,9DIAN RU9S NE>
,PUNTA ,GORDA3 ,I NOTIC$ AL 9 FRONT ( "S
(! VALLEYS1 : BRAN* (F F ! ,DESPOBLADO1
TWO PILES ( /"OS PLAC$ A LL WAY A"P1 &
DIRECT$ S Z 6PO9T UP ! M\?S ( ^! SMALL
VALLEYS4 ,MY -PANIONS KNEW NO?+ AB !M1 &
ONLY ANSW]$ MY QU]IES 0_! IMP]TURBA#
8QUI5 SABE80
  ,I OBS]V$ ,9DIAN RU9S 9 S"EAL "PS (!
,CORDILL]A3 ! MO/ P]FECT : ,I SAW1 7 !
,RU9AS DE ,TAMBILLOS1 9 ! ,USPALLATA
,PASS4 ,SMALL SQU>E ROOMS 7 "! HU4L$ TGR
9 SEP>ATE GR\PS3 "S (! DOORWAYS 7 YET
/&+2 !Y 7 =M$ 0A CROSS SLAB ( /"O ONLY
AB ?REE FEET HI<4 ,ULLOA HAS REM>K$ ON !
L[;S (! DOORS 9 ! ANCI5T ,P]UVIAN
DWELL+S4 ,^! H\SES1 :5 P]FECT1 M/ H BE5
CAPA# ( 3TA9+ A 3SID]A# NUMB] ( P]SONS4
,TRADI;N SAYS1 T !Y 7 US$ Z HALT+-PLACES
=! ,9CAS1 :5 !Y CROSS$ ! M.TA9S4 ,TRACES
( ,9DIAN HABIT,NS H BE5 4COV]$ 9 _M O!R
"PS1 ": X DOES N APPE> PROBA# T !Y 7 US$
Z M]E RE/+-PLACES1 B YET ": ! L& IS Z
UTT]LY UNFIT = ANY K9D ( CULTIV,N1 Z X
IS NE> ! ,TAMBILLOS OR AT ! ,9CAS
,BRIDGE1 OR 9 ! ,PORTILLO ,PASS1 AT ALL
: PLACES ,I SAW RU9S4 ,9 ! RAV9E (
,JAJUEL1 NE> ,ACONCAGUA1 ": "! IS NO
PASS1 ,I HE>D ( REMA9S ( H\SES SITUAT$
AT A GRT HEI<T1 ": X IS EXTREMELY COLD &
/]ILE4 ,AT F/ ,I IMAG9$ T ^! BUILD+S _H
BE5 PLACES ( REFUGE1 BUILT 0! ,9DIANS ON
! F/ >RIVAL (! ,SPANI>DS2 B ,I H S9CE
BE5 9CL9$ 6SPECULATE ON ! PROBABIL;Y (A
SMALL *ANGE ( CLIMATE4
  ,9 ? NOR!RN "P ( ,*ILE1 )9 !
,CORDILL]A1 OLD ,9DIAN H\SES >E SD 6BE
ESPECI,Y NUM]\S3 0DI7+ AM;G/ ! RU9S1
BITS ( WOOLL5 >TICLES1 9/RU;TS ( PRECI\S
METALS1 & H1DS ( ,9DIAN CORN1 >E N
UNFREQU5TLY 4COV]$3 AN >R[-H1D MADE (
AGATE1 &( PRECISELY ! SAME =M ) ^? N[
US$ 9 ,TI]RA DEL ,FUEGO1 0 GIV5 ME4 ,I
AM AW>E T ! ,P]UVIAN ,9DIANS N[
FREQU5TLY 9HABIT MO/ L(TY & BL1K
SITU,NS2 B AT ,COPIAPO ,I 0 ASSUR$ 0M5
:O _H SP5T _! LIVES 9 TRAVELL+ "? !
,&ES1 T "! 7 V _M 7MU*ISIMAS7 BUILD+S AT
HEI<TS S GRT Z ALM 6BORD] ^U ! P]PETUAL
SN[1 & 9 "PS ": "! EXI/ NO PASSES1 & ":
! L& PRODUCES ABSOLUTELY NO?+1 & :AT IS
/ M EXTRAORD9>Y1 ": "! IS NO WAT]4
,N"E!.S X IS ! OP9ION (! P (! C.TRY 7AL?
!Y >E M* PUZZL$ 0! CIRCUM/.E71 T1 F !
APPE>.E (! H\SES1 ! ,9DIANS M/ H US$ !M
Z PLACES ( RESID;E4 ,9 ? VALLEY1 AT
,PUNTA ,GORDA1 ! REMA9S 3SI/$ ( SEV5 OR
EI<T SQU>E LL ROOMS1 : 7 (A SIMIL> =M )
^? AT ,TAMBILLOS1 B BUILT *IEFLY ( MUD1
: ! PRES5T 9HABITANTS _C1 EI "H OR1 AC
6,ULLOA1 9 ,P]U1 IMITATE 9 DURABIL;Y4
,!Y 7 SITUAT$ 9 ! MO/ 3SPICU\S & DEF;E.S
POSI;N1 AT ! BOTTOM (! FLAT BROAD
VALLEY4 ,"! 0 NO WAT] NE>] ?AN ?REE OR
F\R L1GUES1 & T ONLY 9 V SMALL QUANT;Y1
& BAD3 ! SOIL 0 ABSOLUTELY /]ILE2 ,I
LOOK$ 9 VA9 EV5 =A LI*5 ADH]+ 6! ROCKS4
,AT ! PRES5T "D1 )! ADVANTAGE ( B1/S (
BURD51 A M9E1 UN.S X 7 V RI*1 CD SC>CELY
2 "W$ "H ) PR(IT4 ,YET ! ,9DIANS =M]LY
*OSE X Z A PLACE ( RESID;E6 ,IF AT !
PRES5T "T TWO OR ?REE %[]S ( RA9 7 6FALL
ANNU,Y1 9/1D ( "O1 Z N[ IS ! CASE DUR+ Z
_M YE>S1 A SMALL RILL ( WAT] WD PROBABLY
2 =M$ 9 ? GRT VALLEY2 & !N1 0IRRIG,N 7:
0 =M]LY S WELL "U/OOD 0! ,9DIANS71 !
SOIL WD EASILY 2 R5D]$ SU6ICI5TLY
PRODUCTIVE 6SUPPORT A FEW FAMILIES4
  ,I H 3V9C+ PRO(S T ? "P (! 3T95T (
,S\? ,AM]ICA HAS BE5 ELEVAT$ NE> ! COA/
AT L1/ F #DJJ 6#EJJ1 & 9 "S "PS F #AJJJ
6#ACJJ FEET1 S9CE ! EPO* ( EXI/+ %ELLS2
& FUR!R 9L& ! RISE POSSIBLY MAY H BE5
GRT]4 ,Z ! PECULI>LY >ID "* (! CLIMATE
IS EVID5TLY A 3SEQU;E (! HEI<T (!
,CORDILL]A1 WE MAY FEEL ALM SURE T 2F !
LAT] ELEV,NS1 ! ATMOSPH]E CD N H BE5 S
-PLETELY DRA9$ ( XS MOI/URE Z X N[ IS2 &
Z ! RISE HAS BE5 GRADUAL1 S WD H BE5 !
*ANGE 9 CLIMATE4 ,ON ? NO;N (A *ANGE (
CLIMATE S9CE ! BUILD+S 7 9HABIT$1 ! RU9S
M/ 2 ( EXTREME ANTIQU;Y1 B ,I D N ?9K _!
PRES]V,N "U ! ,*ILIAN CLIMATE ANY GRT
DI6ICULTY4 ,WE M/ AL ADMIT ON ? NO;N 7&
? P]H IS A GRT] DI6ICULTY7 T MAN HAS
9HABIT$ ,S\? ,AM]ICA = AN IMM5SELY L;G
P]IOD1 9ASM* Z ANY *ANGE ( CLIMATE
E6ECT$ 0! ELEV,N (! L& M/ H BE5
EXTREMELY GRADUAL4 ,AT ,VALP>AISO1 )9 !
LA/ #BBJ YE>S1 ! RISE HAS BE5 "S:AT LESS
?AN #AI FEET3 AT ,LIMA A SEA-B1* HAS
C]TA9LY BE5 UPH1V$ F #HJ 6#IJ FEET1 )9 !
,9DO-HUMAN P]IOD3 B S* SMALL ELEV,NS CD
H _H LL P[] 9 DEFLECT+ ! MOI/URE-BR++
ATMOSPH]IC CURR5TS4 ,DR4 ,LUND1 H["E1
F.D HUMAN SKELETONS 9 ! CAVES ( ,BRAZIL1
! APPE>.E ( : 9DUC$ HM 62LIEVE T !
,9DIAN RACE HAS EXI/$ DUR+ A VA/ LAPSE (
"T 9 ,S\? ,AM]ICA4
  ,:5 AT ,LIMA1 ,I 3V]S$ ON ^! SUBJECTS
,7#C7' ) ,MR4 ,GILL1 A CIVIL 5G9E]1 :O
_H SE5 M* (! 9T]IOR C.TRY4 ,HE TOLD ME T
A 3JECTURE (A *ANGE ( CLIMATE _H "S"TS
CROSS$ 8 M9D2 B T HE ?"\ T ! GRT] POR;N
( L&1 N[ 9CAPA# ( CULTIV,N1 B COV]$ )
,9DIAN RU9S1 _H BE5 REDUC$ 6? /ATE 0!
WAT]-3DUITS1 : ! ,9DIANS =M]LY 3/RUCT$
ON S WOND];L A SCALE1 HAV+ BE5 9JUR$
0NEGLECT & 0SUBT]RAN1N MOVE;TS4 ,I MAY
"H M5;N1 T ! ,P]UVIANS ACTU,Y C>RI$ _!
IRRIGAT+ /R1MS 9 TUNNELS "? HILLS (
SOLID ROCK4 ,MR4 ,GILL TOLD ME1 HE _H
BE5 EMPLOY$ PROFES.N,Y 6EXAM9E "O3 HE
F.D ! PASSAGE L[1 N>R[1 CROOK$1 & N (
UNI=M BR1D?1 B ( V 3SID]A# L5G?4 ,IS X N
MO/ WOND];L T M5 %D H ATTEMPT$ S*
OP],NS1 )\T ! USE ( IRON OR GUNP[D]8
,MR4 ,GILL AL M5;N$ 6ME A MO/ 9T]E/+1 &1
Z F> Z ,I AM AW>E1 Q UNP>ALLEL$ CASE1 (A
SUBT]RAN1N 4TURB.E HAV+ *ANG$ ! DRA9AGE
(A C.TRY4 ,TRAVELL+ F ,CASMA 6,HU>AZ 7N
V F> 4TANT F ,LIMA71 HE F.D A PLA9 COV]$
) RU9S & M>KS ( ANCI5T CULTIV,N B N[ Q
B>R54 ,NE> X 0 ! DRY C\RSE (A 3SID]A#
RIV]1 :;E ! WAT] = IRRIG,N _H =M]LY BE5
3DUCT$4 ,"! 0 NO?+ 9 ! APPE>.E (! WAT]-
C\RSE 69DICATE T ! RIV] _H N FL[$ "! A
FEW YE>S PREVI\SLY2 9 "S "PS1 B$S ( S& &
GRAVEL 7 SPR1D \2 9 O!RS1 ! SOLID ROCK
_H BE5 WORN 96A BROAD *ANNEL1 : 9 "O
SPOT 0 AB #DJ Y>DS 9 BR1D? & #H FEET
DEEP4 ,X IS SELF-EVID5T T A P]SON FOLL[+
UP ! C\RSE (A /R1M1 W ALW ASC5D AT A
GRT] OR LESS 9CL9,N3 ,MR4 ,GILL1 "!=E1 0
M* A/ONI%$1 :5 WALK+ UP ! B$ ( ? ANCI5T
RIV]1 6F9D HMF SU45LY GO+ D[N HILL4 ,HE
IMAG9$ T ! D[NW>D SLOPE _H A FALL ( AB
#DJ OR #EJ FEET P]P5DICUL>4 ,WE "H H
UNEQUIVOCAL EVID;E T A RIDGE _H BE5
UPLIFT$ "R ACR ! OLD B$ (A /R1M4 ,F !
MO;T ! RIV]-C\RSE 0 ?US >*$1 ! WAT] M/
NECESS>ILY H BE5 ?R[N BACK1 &A NEW
*ANNEL =M$4 ,F T MO;T1 AL1 ! NEI<B\R+
PLA9 M/ H LO/ XS F]TILIZ+ /R1M1 & 2COME
A DES]T4
  ,JUNE #BG?4--,WE SET \ E>LY 9 ! MORN+1
& 0MID"D R1*$ ! RAV9E ( ,PAYPOTE1 ": "!
IS A T9Y RILL ( WAT]1 )A LL VEGET,N1 &
EV5 A FEW ALG>ROBA TREES1 A K9D (
MIMOSA4 ,F HAV+ FIRE-WOOD1 A SMELT+-
FURNACE _H =M]LY BE5 BUILT "H3 WE F.D A
SOLIT>Y MAN 9 *>GE ( X1 ^: SOLE EMPLOY;T
0 HUNT+ GUANACOS4 ,AT NI<T X FROZE
%>PLY2 B HAV+ PL5TY ( WOOD = \R FIRE1 WE
KEPT \RVS W>M4
  #BH?4--,WE 3T9U$ GRADU,Y ASC5D+1 &!
VALLEY N[ *ANG$ 96A RAV9E4 ,DUR+ ! "D WE
SAW S"EAL GUANACOS1 &! TRACK (! CLOSELY-
ALLI$ SPECIES1 ! ,VICUNA3 ? LATT] ANIMAL
IS PRE-EM95TLY ALP9E 9 XS HABITS2 X
SELDOM DESC5DS M* 2L ! LIMIT ( P]PETUAL
SN[1 & "!=E HAUNTS EV5 A M L(TY & /]ILE
SITU,N ?AN ! GUANACO4 ,! ONLY O!R ANIMAL
: WE SAW 9 ANY NUMB] 0 A SMALL FOX3 ,I
SUPPOSE ? ANIMAL PREYS ON ! MICE & O!R
SMALL ROD5TS1 :1 Z L;G Z "! IS ! L1/
VEGET,N1 SUBSI/ 9 3SID]A# NUMB]S 9 V
DES]T PLACES4 ,9 ,PATAGONIA1 EV5 ON !
BORD]S (! SAL9AS1 ": A DROP ( FRE% WAT]
C N"E 2 F.D1 EXCEPT+ DEW1 ^! LL ANIMALS
SW>M4 ,NEXT 6LIZ>DS1 MICE APPE> 6BE A#
6SUPPORT EXI/;E ON ! SMALLE/ & DRIE/
POR;NS (! E>?--EV5 ON ISLETS 9 ! MID/ (
GRT OC1NS4
  ,! SC5E ON ALL SIDES %[$ DESOL,N1
B"R5$ & MADE PALPA# 0A CLE>1 UNCL\D$
SKY4 ,=A "T S* SC5]Y IS SUBLIME1 B ?
FEEL+ _C LA/1 & !N X 2COMES UN9T]E/+4
,WE BIV\ACK$ AT ! FOOT (! 8PRIM]A L9EA10
OR ! F/ L9E (! "PI;N ( WAT]S4 ,! /R1MS1
H["E1 ON ! EA/ SIDE D N FL[ 6!
,ATLANTIC1 B 96AN ELEVAT$ 4TRICT1 9 !
MI4LE ( : "! IS A L>GE SAL9E1 OR SALT
LAKE2 ?US =M+ A LL ,CASPIAN ,SEA AT !
HEI<T1 P]H1 ( T5 ?\S& FEET4 ,": WE
SLEPT1 "! 7 "S 3SID]A# PAT*ES ( SN[1 B
!Y D N REMA9 "?\T ! YE>4 ,! W9DS 9 ^!
L(TY REGIONS OBEY V REGUL> LAWS E "D A
FRE% BREEZE BL[S UP ! VALLEY1 & AT NI<T1
AN H\R OR TWO AF SUNSET1 ! AIR F ! COLD
REGIONS ABV DESC5DS Z "? A FUNNEL4 ,?
NI<T X BLEW A GALE ( W9D1 &! TEMP]ATURE
M/ H BE5 3SID]ABLY 2L ! FREEZ+- PO9T1 =
WAT] 9 A VESSEL SOON 2CAME A BLOCK (
ICE4 ,NO CLO!S SEEM$ 6OPPOSE ANY OB/ACLE
6! AIR2 ,I SU6]$ V M* F ! COLD1 S T ,I
CD N SLEEP1 & 9 ! MORN+ ROSE ) MY BODY Q
DULL & 2NUMB$4
  ,9 ! ,CORDILL]A FUR!R S\?W>D1 P LOSE
_! LIVES F SN[/ORMS2 "H1 X "S"TS HAPP5S
F ANO!R CAUSE4 ,MY GUIDE1 :5 A BOY (
F\RTE5 YE>S OLD1 0 PASS+ ! ,CORDILL]A )A
"PY 9 ! MON? ( ,MAY2 & :ILE 9 ! C5TRAL
"PS1 A FURI\S GALE ( W9D >OSE1 S T ! M5
CD H>DLY CL+ ON _! MULES1 & /"OS 7 FLY+
AL;G ! GR.D4 ,! "D 0 CL\D.S1 & N A SPECK
( SN[ FELL1 B ! TEMP]ATURE 0 L[4 ,X IS
PROBA# T ! !RMOMET] CD N H /OOD V _M
DEGREES 2L ! FREEZ+-PO9T1 B ! E6ECT ON
_! BODIES1 ILL PROTECT$ 0CLO?+1 M/ H BE5
9 PROPOR;N 6! RAPID;Y (! CURR5T ( COLD
AIR4 ,! GALE LA/$ = M ?AN A "D2 ! M5
2GAN 6LOSE _! /R5G?1 &! MULES WD N MOVE
ONW>DS4 ,MY GUIDE'S BRO!R TRI$ 6RETURN1
B HE P]I%$1 & 8 BODY 0 F.D TWO YE>S
AFWS1 ,LY+ 0! SIDE ( 8 MULE NE> ! ROAD1
)! BRIDLE / 9 8 H&4 ,TWO O!R M5 9 ! "PY
LO/ _! F+]S & TOES2 & \ ( TWO HUNDR$
MULES & ?IRTY C[S1 ONLY F\RTE5 MULES
ESCAP$ ALIVE4 ,_M YE>S AGO ! :OLE (A
L>GE "PY >E SUPPOS$ 6H P]I%$ F A SIMIL>
CAUSE1 B _! BODIES 6? "D H N"E BE5
4COV]$4 ,! UNION (A CL\D.S SKY1 L[
TEMP]ATURE1 &A FURI\S GALE ( W9D1 M/ BE1
,I %D ?9K1 9 ALL "PS (! _W AN UNUSUAL
O3URR;E4
  ,JUNE #BI?--,WE GLADLY TRAVELL$ D[N !
VALLEY 6\R =M] NI<T'S LODG+1 & ?;E 6NE>
! ,AGUA AM>GA4 ,ON ,JULY #A/ WE R1*$ !
VALLEY ( ,COPIAPO4 ,! SMELL (! FRE%
CLOV] 0 Q DELI<T;L1 AF ! SC5T.S AIR (!
DRY1 /]ILE ,DESPOBLADO4 ,:IL/ /AY+ 9 !
T[N ,I HE>D AN A3.T F S"EAL (!
9HABITANTS1 (A HILL 9 ! NEI<B\RHOOD : !Y
CALL$ 8,EL ,BRAMADOR10--! RO>] OR
BELL[]4 ,I DID N AT ! "T PAY SU6ICI5T
ATT5;N 6! A3.T2 B1 Z F> Z ,I "U/OOD1 !
HILL 0 COV]$ 0S&1 &! NOISE 0 PRODUC$
ONLY :5 P1 0ASC5D+ X1 PUT ! S& 9 MO;N4
,! SAME CIRCUM/.ES >E DESCRIB$ 9 DETAIL
ON ! AU?OR;Y ( ,SEETZ5 & ,EHR5B]G1
,7#D7' Z ! CAUSE (! S.DS : H BE5 HE>D
0_M TRAVELL]S ON ,M.T ,S9AI NE> ! ,R$
,SEA4 ,"O P]SON ) :OM ,I 3V]S$ _H HMF
HE>D ! NOISE3 HE DESCRIB$ X Z V
SURPRIS+2 & HE 4T9CTLY /AT$ T1 AL? HE CD
N "U/& H[ X 0 CAUS$1 YET X 0 NEC 6SET !
S& ROLL+ D[N ! A3LIV;Y4 ,A HORSE WALK+
OV] DRY CO>SE S&1 CAUSES A PECULI> *IRP+
NOISE F ! FRIC;N (! "PICLES2 A CIRCUM/.E
: ,I S"EAL "TS NOTIC$ ON ! COA/ (
,BRAZIL4
  ,?REE "DS AFWS ,I HE>D (! ,B1GLE'S
>RIVAL AT ! ,PORT1 4TANT EI<TE5 L1GUES F
! T[N4 ,"! IS V LL L& CULTIVAT$ D[N !
VALLEY2 XS WIDE EXPANSE SUPPORTS A
WRET*$ WIRY GRASS1 : EV5 ! DONKEYS C
H>DLY EAT4 ,? POOR;S (! VEGET,N IS [+ 6!
QUANT;Y ( SAL9E MATT] ) : ! SOIL IS
IMPREGNAT$4 ,! ,PORT 3SI/S ( AN
ASSEMBLAGE ( MIS]A# LL HOVELS1 SITUAT$
AT ! FOOT (A /]ILE PLA94 ,AT PRES5T1 Z !
RIV] 3TA9S WAT] 5 6R1* ! SEA1 !
9HABITANTS 5JOY ! ADVANTAGE ( HAV+ FRE%
WAT] )9 A MILE &A HALF4 ,ON ! B1* "! 7
L>GE PILES ( M]*&ISE1 &! LL PLACE _H AN
AIR ( ACTIV;Y4 ,9 ! EV5+ ,I GAVE MY
ADIOS1 )A HE>TY GD-W1 6MY -PANION
,M>IANO ,GONZALES1 ) :OM ,I _H RI45 S _M
L1GUES 9 ,*ILE4 ,! NEXT MORN+ ! ,B1GLE
SAIL$ = ,IQUIQUE4
  ,JULY #AB?4--,WE AN*OR$ 9 ! PORT (
,IQUIQUE1 9 LAT4 #BJ DEGS4 #AB0'1 ON !
COA/ ( ,P]U4 ,! T[N 3TA9S AB A ?\S&
9HABITANTS1 & /&S ON A LL PLA9 ( S& AT !
FOOT (A GRT WALL ( ROCK1 #BJJJ FEET 9
HEI<T1 "H =M+ ! COA/4 ,! :OLE IS UTT]LY
DES]T4 ,A LI<T %[] ( RA9 FALLS ONLY ONCE
9 V _M YE>S2 &! RAV9ES 3SEQU5TLY >E
FILL$ ) DETRITUS1 &! M.TA9-SIDES COV]$
0PILES ( F9E :ITE S&1 EV5 6A HEI<T (A
?\S& FEET4 ,DUR+ ? S1SON (! YE> A H1VY
BANK ( CL\DS1 /RET*$ OV] ! OC1N1 SELDOM
RISES ABV ! WALL ( ROCKS ON ! COA/4 ,!
ASPECT (! PLACE 0 MO/ GLOOMY2 ! LL PORT1
) XS FEW VESSELS1 & SMALL GR\P ( WRET*$
H\SES1 SEEM$ OV]:ELM$ & \ ( ALL PROPOR;N
)! RE/ (! SC5E4
  ,! 9HABITANTS LIVE L P]SONS ON BO>D A
%IP3 E NEC -ES F A 4T.E3 WAT] IS BR"\ 9
BOATS F ,PISAGUA1 AB =TY MILES NOR?W>D1
& IS SOLD AT ! RATE ( N9E R1LS 7#D'S4
#F;D47 AN EI<TE5-GALLON CASK3 ,I B"\ A
W9E-BOTTLE FULL = ?REEP;E4 ,9 L MANN]
FIREWOOD1 &( C\RSE E >TICLE ( FOOD1 IS
IMPORT$4 ,V FEW ANIMALS C 2 MA9TA9$ 9 S*
A PLACE3 ON ! 5SU+ MORN+ ,I HIR$ )
DI6ICULTY1 AT ! PRICE ( F\R P.DS /]L+1
TWO MULES &A GUIDE 6TAKE ME 6! NITRATE (
SODA "WS4 ,^! >E AT PRES5T ! SUPPORT (
,IQUIQUE4 ,? SALT 0 F/ EXPORT$ 9 #AHCJ3
9 "O YE> AN AM.T 9 VALUE ( "O HUNDR$
?\S& P.DS /]L+1 0 S5T 6,FR.E & ,5GL&4 ,X
IS PR9CIP,Y US$ Z A MANURE & 9 !
MANUFACTURE ( NITRIC ACID3 [+ 6XS
DELIQUESC5T PROP]TY X W N S]VE =
GUNP[D]4 ,=M]LY "! 7 TWO EXCE$+LY RI*
SILV]-M9ES 9 ? NEI<B\RHOOD1 B _! PRODUCE
IS N[ V SMALL4
  ,\R >RIVAL 9 ! (F+ CAUS$ "S LL
APPREH5.N4 ,P]U 0 9 A /ATE ( AN>*Y2 &
EA* "PY HAV+ DEM&$ A 3TRIBU;N1 ! POOR
T[N ( ,IQUIQUE 0 9 TRIBUL,N1 ?9K+ ! EVIL
H\R 0 -E4 ,! P _H AL _! DOME/IC TR\#S2 A
%ORT "T 2F1 ?REE
  ,FR5* C>P5T]S _H BROK5 OP51 DUR+ !
SAME NI<T1 ! TWO *UR*ES1 & /OL5 ALL !
PLATE3 "O (! RO2]S1 H["E1 SUBSEQU5TLY
3FESS$1 &! PLATE 0 RECOV]$4 ,! 3VICTS 7
S5T 6,>EQUIPA1 : ?\< ! CAPITAL ( ?
PROV9CE1 IS TWO HUNDR$ L1GUES 4TANT1 !
GOV]N;T "! ?"\ X A P;Y 6PUNI% S* USE;L
"WM51 :O CD MAKE ALL SORTS ( FURNITURE2
& ACLY LIB]AT$ !M4 ,?+S 2+ 9 ? /ATE1 !
*UR*ES 7 AG BROK5 OP51 B ? "T ! PLATE 0
N RECOV]$4 ,! 9HABITANTS 2CAME DR1D;LLY
5RAG$1 & DCLG T N"O B H]ETICS WD ?US
8EAT ,GOD ,ALMI<TY10 PROCE$$ 6TORTURE "S
,5GLI%M51 )! 9T5;N ( AFWS %OOT+ !M4 ,AT
LA/ ! AU?ORITIES 9T]F]$1 & P1CE 0
E/ABLI%$4
  #AC?4--,IN ! MORN+ ,I />T$ =!
SALTPETRE-"WS1 A 4T.E ( F\RTE5 L1GUES4
,HAV+ ASC5D$ ! /EEP COA/-M.TA9S 0A
ZIGZAG S&Y TRACK1 WE SOON CAME 9 VIEW (!
M9ES ( ,GUANTAJAYA & ,/4 ,ROSA4 ,^! TWO
SMALL VILLAGES >E PLAC$ AT ! V M\?S (!
M9ES2 & 2+ P]*$ UP ON HILLS1 !Y _H A / M
UNNATURAL & DESOLATE APPE>.E ?AN ! T[N (
,IQUIQUE4 ,WE DID N R1* ! SALTPETRE-"WS
TILL AF SUNSET1 HAV+ RI45 ALL "D ACR AN
UNDULAT+ C.TRY1 A -PLETE & UTT] DES]T4
,! ROAD 0 /REW$ )! B"OS & DRI$ SK9S ( _M
B1/S ( BURD5 : _H P]I%$ ON X F FATIGUE4
,EXCEPT+ ! ,VULTUR AURA1 : PREYS ON !
C>CASSES1 ,I SAW NEI BIRD1 QUADRUP$1
REPTILE1 NOR 9SECT4 ,ON ! COA/-M.TA9S1
AT ! HEI<T ( AB #BJJJ FEET ": DUR+ ?
S1SON ! CL\DS G5],Y HANG1 A V FEW CACTI
7 GR[+ 9 ! CLEFTS ( ROCK2 &! LOOSE S& 0
/REW$ OV] )A LI*51 : LIES ON ! SURFACE Q
UNATTA*$4 ,? PLANT 2L;GS 6! G5US
,CLADONIA1 & "S:AT RESEM#S ! RE9DE]
LI*54 ,9 "S "PS X 0 9 SU6ICI5T QUANT;Y
6T+E ! S&1 Z SE5 F A 4T.E1 (A PALE
YELL[I% COL\R4 ,FUR!R 9L&1 DUR+ ! :OLE
RIDE ( F\RTE5 L1GUES1 ,I SAW ONLY "O O!R
VEGETA# PRODUC;N1 & T 0 A MO/ M9UTE
YELL[ LI*51 GR[+ ON ! B"OS (! D1D MULES4
,? 0 ! F/ TRUE DES]T : ,I _H SE53 !
E6ECT ON ME 0 N IMPRESSIVE2 B ,I 2LIEVE
? 0 [+ 6MY HAV+ 2COME GRADU,Y A3U/OM$
6S* SC5ES1 Z ,I RODE NOR?W>D F
,VALP>AISO1 "? ,COQUIMBO1 6,COPIAPO4 ,!
APPE>.E (! C.TRY 0 REM>KA#1 F 2+ COV]$
0A ?ICK CRU/ ( -MON SALT1 &(A /RATIFI$
SALIF]\S ALLUVIUM1 : SEEMS 6H BE5
DEPOSIT$ Z ! L& SL[LY ROSE ABV ! LEVEL (
! SEA4 ,! SALT IS :ITE1 V H>D1 & -PACT3
X O3URS 9 WAT] WORN NODULES PROJECT+ F !
A7LUT9AT$ S&1 & IS ASSOCIAT$ ) M*
GYPSUM4 ,! APPE>.E ( ? SUP]FICIAL MASS V
CLOSELY RESEM#D T (A C.TRY AF SN[1 2F !
LA/ DIRTY PAT*ES >E ?AW$4 ,! EXI/;E ( ?
CRU/ (A SOLU# SUB/.E OV] ! :OLE FACE (!
C.TRY1 %[S H[ EXTRAORD9>ILY DRY !
CLIMATE M/ H BE5 =A L;G P]IOD4
  ,AT NI<T ,I SLEPT AT ! H\SE (! [N] (
"O (! SALTPETRE M9ES4 ,! C.TRY IS "H Z
UNPRODUCTIVE Z NE> ! COA/2 B WAT]1 HAV+
R A BITT] & BRACKI% TA/E1 C 2 PROCUR$
0DI7+ WELLS4 ,! WELL AT ? H\SE 0 ?IRTY-
SIX Y>DS DEEP3 Z SC>CELY ANY RA9 FALLS1
X IS EVID5T ! WAT] IS N ?US DERIV$2 9DE$
IF X W]E1 X CD N FAIL 6BE Z SALT Z BR9E1
=! :OLE SURR.D+ C.TRY IS 9CRU/$ ) V>I\S
SAL9E SUB/.ES4 ,WE M/ "!=E 3CLUDE T X
P]COLATES "U GR.D F ! ,CORDILL]A1 ?\<
4TANT _M L1GUES4 ,9 T DIREC;N "! >E A
FEW SMALL VILLAGES1 ": ! 9HABITANTS1
HAV+ M WAT]1 >E 5A#D 6IRRIGATE A LL L&1
& RAISE HAY1 ON : ! MULES & ASSES1
EMPLOY$ 9 C>RY+ ! SALTPETRE1 >E F$4 ,!
NITRATE ( SODA 0 N[ SELL+ AT ! %IP'S
SIDE AT F\RTE5 %ILL+S P] HUNDR$ P.DS3 !
*IEF EXP5SE IS XS TRANSPORT 6! SEA-COA/4
,! M9E 3SI/S (A H>D /RATUM1 2T TWO &
?REE FEET ?ICK1 (! NITRATE M+L$ )A LL (!
SULPHATE ( SODA &A GD D1L ( -MON SALT4
,X LIES CLOSE 2N ! SURFACE1 & FOLL[S =A
L5G? ( "O HUNDR$ & FIFTY MILES ! M>G9 (A
GR& BAS9 OR PLA92 ?1 F XS \TL9E1
MANIFE/LY M/ ONCE H BE5 A LAKE1 OR M
PROBABLY AN 9L& >M (! SEA1 Z MAY 2 9F]R$
F ! PRES;E ( IODIC SALTS 9 ! SAL9E
/RATUM4 ,! SURFACE (! PLA9 IS #CCJJ FEET
ABV ! ,PACIFIC4
  #AI?4--,WE AN*OR$ 9 ! ,BAY ( ,CALLAO1
! S1PORT ( ,LIMA1 ! CAPITAL ( ,P]U4 ,WE
/AY$ "H SIX WEEKS B F ! TR\#D /ATE (
PUBLIC A6AIRS1 ,I SAW V LL (! C.TRY4
,DUR+ \R :OLE VISIT ! CLIMATE 0 F> F 2+
S DELI<T;L1 Z X IS G5],Y REPRES5T$4 ,A
DULL H1VY BANK ( CL\DS 3/ANTLY HUNG OV]
! L&1 S T DUR+ ! F/ SIXTE5 "DS ,I _H
ONLY "O VIEW (! ,CORDILL]A 2H ,LIMA4 ,^!
M.TA9S1 SE5 9 /AGES1 "O ABV ! O!R1 "?
OP5+S 9 ! CL\DS1 _H A V GR& APPE>.E4 ,X
IS ALM 2COME A PROV]B1 T RA9 N"E FALLS 9
! L[] "P ( ,P]U4 ,YET ? C H>DLY 2 3SID]$
CORRECT2 = DUR+ ALM E "D ( \R VISIT "! 0
A ?ICK DRIZZL+ MI/1 : 0 SU6ICI5T 6MAKE !
/REETS MU4Y & "O'S CLO!S DAMP3 ? ! P >E
PL1S$ 6CALL ,P]UVIAN DEW4 ,T M* RA9 DOES
N FALL IS V C]TA91 =! H\SES >E COV]$
ONLY ) FLAT RO(S MADE ( H>D5$ MUD2 & ON
! MOLE %IPLOADS ( :1T 7 PIL$ UP1 2+ ?US
LEFT = WEEKS TGR )\T ANY %ELT]4
  ,I _C SAY ,I LIK$ ! V LL ,I SAW (
,P]U3 9 SUMM]1 H["E1 X IS SD T ! CLIMATE
IS M* PL1SANT]4 ,9 ALL S1SONS1 BO?
9HABITANTS & =EIGN]S SU6] F SEV]E
ATTACKS ( AGUE4 ,? 41SE IS -MON ON !
:OLE COA/ ( ,P]U1 B IS UN"KN 9 ! 9T]IOR4
,! ATTACKS ( ILL;S : >ISE F MIASMA N"E
FAIL 6APPE> MO/ MY/]I\S4 ,S DI6ICULT IS
X 6JUDGE F ! ASPECT (A C.TRY1 :E!R OR N
X IS H1L?Y1 T IF A P]SON _H BE5 TOLD
6*OOSE )9 ! TROPICS A SITU,N APPE>+
FAV\RA# = H1L?1 V PROBABLY HE WD H "ND ?
COA/4 ,! PLA9 R.D ! \TSKIRTS ( ,CALLAO
IS SP>+LY COV]$ )A CO>SE GRASS1 & 9 "S
"PS "! >E A FEW /AGNANT1 ?\< V SMALL1
POOLS ( WAT]4 ,! MIASMA1 9 ALL
PROBABIL;Y1 >ISES F ^!3 =! T[N ( ,>ICA 0
SIMIL>LY CIRCUM/.ED1 & XS H1L?I;S 0 M*
IMPROV$ 0! DRA9AGE ( "S LL POOLS4
,MIASMA IS N ALW PRODUC$ 0A LUXURIANT
VEGET,N ) AN >D5T CLIMATE2 = _M "PS (
,BRAZIL1 EV5 ": "! >E M>%ES &A RANK
VEGET,N1 >E M* M H1L?Y ?AN ? /]ILE COA/
( ,P]U4 ,! D5SE/ =E/S 9 A TEMP]ATE
CLIMATE1 Z 9 ,*ILOE1 D N SEEM 9 !
SLI<TE/ DEGREE 6A6ECT ! H1L?Y 3DI;N (!
ATMOSPH]E4
  ,! ISL& ( ,/4 ,JAGO1 AT ! ,CAPE DE
,V]DS1 (F]S ANO!R /R;GLY M>K$ 9/.E (A
C.TRY1 : ANY "O WD H EXPECT$ 6F9D MO/
H1L?Y1 2+ V M* ! 3TR>Y4 ,I H DESCRIB$ !
B>E & OP5 PLA9S Z SUPPORT+1 DUR+ A FEW
WEEKS AF ! RA9Y S1SON1 A ?9 VEGET,N1 :
DIRECTLY )]S AWAY & DRIES UP3 AT ? P]IOD
! AIR APPE>S 62COME Q POISON\S2 BO?
NATIVES & =EIGN]S (T5 2+ A6ECT$ ) VIOL5T
FEV]S4 ,ON ! O!R H&1 ! ,GALAPAGOS
,>*IPELAGO1 9 ! ,PACIFIC1 )A SIMIL>
SOIL1 & P]IODIC,Y SUBJECT 6! SAME
PROCESS ( VEGET,N1 IS P]FECTLY H1L?Y4
,HUMBOLDT HAS OBS]V$1 T1 8"U ! TORRID
Z"O1 ! SMALLE/ M>%ES >E ! MO/ DANG]\S1
2+ SURR.D$1 Z AT ,V]A ,CRUZ & ,C>?AG5A1
) AN >ID & S&Y SOIL1 : RAISES !
TEMP]ATURE (! AMBI5T AIR40 ,7#E7' ,ON !
COA/ ( ,P]U1 H["E1 ! TEMP]ATURE IS N HOT
6ANY EXCESSIVE DEGREE2 & P]H 9 3SEQU;E1
! 9T]MITT5T FEV]S >E N (! MO/ MALIGNANT
ORD]4 ,9 ALL UNH1L?Y C.TRIES ! GRTE/
RISK IS RUN 0SLEEP+ ON %ORE4 ,IS ? [+ 6!
/ATE (! BODY DUR+ SLEEP1 OR 6A GRT]
ABUND.E ( MIASMA AT S* "TS8 ,X APPE>S
C]TA9 T ^? :O /AY ON BO>D A VESSEL1 ?\<
AN*OR$ AT ONLY A %ORT 4T.E F ! COA/1
G5],Y SU6] LESS ?AN ^? ACTU,Y ON %ORE4
,ON ! O!R H&1 ,I H HE>D ( "O REM>KA#
CASE ": A FEV] BROKE \ AM;G ! CREW (A
MAN-(-W> "S HUNDR$ MILES (F ! COA/ (
,AFRICA1 & AT ! SAME "T "O ( ^? FE>;L
P]IODS ,7#F7' ( D1? -M;ED AT ,SI]RA
,LEONE4
  ,NO /ATE 9 ,S\? ,AM]ICA1 S9CE !
DECL>,N ( 9DEP5D;E1 HAS SU6]$ M F AN>*Y
?AN ,P]U4 ,AT ! "T ( \R VISIT1 "! 7 F\R
*IEFS 9 >MS 3T5D+ = SUPREMACY 9 !
GOV]N;T3 IF "O SU3E$$ 9 2COM+ =A "T V
P[];L1 ! O!RS COALESC$ AG/ HM2 B NO
SOON] 7 !Y VICTORI\S1 ?AN !Y 7 AG HO/ILE
6EA* O!R4 ,! O!R "D1 AT ! ,ANNIV]S>Y (!
,9DEP5D;E1 HI< MASS 0 P]=M$1 ! ,PRESID5T
P>TAK+ (! SACRA;T3 DUR+ ! @__,TE ,DEUM
LAUDAMUS@__1 9/1D ( EA* REGI;T 4PLAY+ !
,P]UVIAN FLAG1 A BLACK "O ) D1?'S H1D 0
UNFURL$4 ,IMAG9E A GOV]N;T "U : S* A
SC5E CD 2 ORD]$1 ON S* AN O3A.N1 6BE
TYPICAL ( _! DET]M9,N ( FI<T+ 6D1?6 ,?
/ATE ( A6AIRS HAPP5$ AT A "T V
UN=TUNATELY = ME1 Z ,I 0 PRECLUD$ F TAK+
ANY EXCUR.NS M* 2Y ! LIMITS (! T[N4 ,!
B>R5 ISL& ( ,/4 ,LOR5ZO1 : =MS ! H>B\R1
0 NE>LY ! ONLY PLACE ": "O CD WALK
SECURELY4 ,! UPP] "P1 : IS UPW>DS (
#AJJJ FEET 9 HEI<T1 DUR+ ? S1SON (! YE>
7W9T]71 -ES )9 ! L[] LIMIT (! CL\DS2 & 9
3SEQU;E1 AN ABUNDANT CRYPTOGAMIC
VEGET,N1 &A FEW FL[]S COV] ! SUMMIT4 ,ON
! HILLS NE> ,LIMA1 AT A HEI<T B LL GRT]1
! GR.D IS C>PET$ ) MOSS1 & B$S ( B1UTI;L
YELL[ LILIES1 CALL$ ,AMANCAES4 ,?
9DICATES A V M* GRT] DEGREE ( HUMID;Y1
?AN AT A CORRESPOND+ HEI<T AT ,IQUIQUE4
,PROCE$+ NOR?W>D ( ,LIMA1 ! CLIMATE
2COMES DAMP]1 TILL ON ! BANKS (!
,GUAYAQUIL1 NE>LY "U ! EQUATOR1 WE F9D !
MO/ LUXURIANT =E/S4 ,! *ANGE1 H["E1 F !
/]ILE COA/ ( ,P]U 6T F]TILE L& IS
DESCRIB$ Z TAK+ PLACE R ABRUPTLY 9 !
LATITUDE ( ,CAPE ,BLANCO1 TWO DEGREES
S\? ( ,GUAYAQUIL4
  ,CALLAO IS A FIL?Y1 ILL-BUILT1 SMALL
S1PORT4 ,! 9HABITANTS1 BO? "H & AT
,LIMA1 PRES5T E IMAG9A# %ADE ( MIXTURE1
2T ,EUROP1N1 ,NEGRO1 & ,9DIAN BLOOD4 ,!Y
APPE> A DEPRAV$1 DRUNK5 SET ( P4 ,!
ATMOSPH]E IS LOAD$ ) F\L SMELLS1 & T
PECULI> "O1 : MAY 2 P]CVD 9 ALM E T[N )9
! TROPICS1 0 "H V /R;G4 ,! =TRESS1 :
)/OOD ,"L ,CO*RANE'S L;G SIEGE1 HAS AN
IMPOS+ APPE>.E4 ,B ! ,PRESID5T1 DUR+ \R
/AY1 SOLD ! BRASS GUNS1 & PROCE$$
64MANTLE "PS ( X4 ,! R1SON ASSIGN$ WAS1
T HE _H N AN (FIC] 6:OM HE CD TRU/ S
IMPORTANT A *>GE4 ,HE HMF _H GD R1SON =
?9K+ S1 Z HE _H OBTA9$ ! PRESID5T%IP
0REBELL+ :ILE 9 *>GE ( ? SAME =TRESS4
,AF WE LEFT ,S\? ,AM]ICA1 HE PD ! P5ALTY
9 ! USUAL MANN]1 02+ 3QU]$1 TAK5
PRISON]1 & %OT4
  ,LIMA /&S ON A PLA9 9 A VALLEY1 =M$
DUR+ ! GRADUAL RETR1T (! SEA4 ,X IS SEV5
MILES F ,CALLAO1 & IS ELEVAT$ #EJJ FEET
ABV X2 B F ! SLOPE 2+ V GRADUAL1 ! ROAD
APPE>S ABSOLUTELY LEVEL2 S T :5 AT ,LIMA
X IS DI6ICULT 62LIEVE "O HAS ASC5D$ EV5
"O HUNDR$ FEET3 ,HUMBOLDT HAS REM>K$ ON
? S+UL>LY DECEPTIVE CASE4 ,/EEP B>R5
HILLS RISE L ISL&S F ! PLA91 : IS
DIVID$1 0/RAI<T MUD-WALLS1 96L>GE GRE5
FIELDS4 ,9 ^! SC>CELY A TREE GR[S
EXCEPT+ A FEW WILL[S1 & AN O3A.NAL CLUMP
( BANANAS &( ORANGES4 ,! C;Y ( ,LIMA IS
N[ 9 A WRET*$ /ATE ( DECAY3 ! /REETS >E
NE>LY UNPAV$2 & H1PS ( FIL? >E PIL$ UP 9
ALL DIREC;NS1 ": ! BLACK GALL9AZOS1 TAME
Z P\LTRY1 PICK UP BITS ( C>RION4 ,!
H\SES H G5],Y AN UPP] /ORY1 BUILT ON
A3.T (! E>?QUAKES1 ( PLA/]$ WOOD"W B "S
(! OLD "OS1 : >E N[ US$ 0S"EAL FAMILIES1
>E IMM5SELY L>GE1 & WD RIVAL 9 SUITES (
A"P;TS ! MO/ MAGNIFIC5T 9 ANY PLACE4
,LIMA1 ! ,C;Y (! ,K+S1 M/ =M]LY H BE5 A
SPL5DID T[N4 ,! EXTRAORD9>Y NUMB] (
*UR*ES GIVES X1 EV5 AT ! PRES5T "D1 A
PECULI> & /RIK+ "*1 ESPECI,Y :5 VIEW$ F
A %ORT 4T.E4
  ,"O "D ,I W5T \ ) "S M]*ANTS 6HUNT 9 !
IMM VIC9;Y (! C;Y4 ,\R SPORT 0 V POOR2 B
,I _H AN OPPORTUN;Y ( SEE+ ! RU9S ( "O (
! ANCI5T ,9DIAN VILLAGES1 ) XS M.D L A
NATURAL HILL 9 ! C5TRE4 ,! REMA9S (
H\SES1 5CLOSURES1 IRRIGAT+ /R1MS1 &
BURIAL M.DS1 SCATT]$ OV] ? PLA91 _C FAIL
6GIVE "O A HI< IDEA (! 3DI;N & NUMB] (!
ANCI5T POPUL,N4 ,:5 _! E>!NW>E1 WOOLL5
CLO!S1 UT5SILS ( ELEGANT =MS CUT \ (!
H>DE/ ROCKS1 TOOLS ( COPP]1 ORNA;TS (
PRECI\S /"OS1 PALACES1 & HYDRAULIC "WS1
>E 3SID]$1 X IS IMPOSSI# N 6RESPECT !
3SID]A# ADV.E MADE 0!M 9 ! >TS (
CIVILIZ,N4 ,! BURIAL M.DS1 CALL$
,HUACAS1 >E RE,Y /UP5D\S2 AL? 9 "S
PLACES !Y APPE> 6BE NATURAL HILLS 9CAS$
& MODELL$4
  ,"! IS AL ANO!R & V DI6]5T CLASS (
RU9S1 : POSSESSES "S 9T]E/1 "NLY1 ^? (
OLD ,CALLAO1 OV]:ELM$ 0! GRT E>?QUAKE (
#AGDF1 & XS A3OMPANY+ WAVE4 ,! DE/RUC;N
M/ H BE5 M -PLETE EV5 ?AN AT
,TALCAHUANO4 ,QUANTITIES ( %+LE ALM 3C1L
! F.D,NS (! WALLS1 & VA/ MASSES (
BRICK"W APPE> 6H BE5 :IRL$ AB L PEB#S 0!
RETIR+ WAVES4 ,X HAS BE5 /AT$ T ! L&
SUBSID$ DUR+ ? MEMORA# %OCK3 ,I CD N
4COV] ANY PRO( ( ?2 YET X SEEMS F> F
IMPROBA#1 =! =M (! COA/ M/ C]TA9LY H
"UG"O "S *ANGE S9CE ! F.D,N (! OLD T[N2
Z NO P 9 _! S5SES WD WILL+LY H *OS5 = _!
BUILD+ PLACE1 ! N>R[ SPIT ( %+LE ON : !
RU9S N[ /&4 ,S9CE \R VOYAGE1 ,M4 ,TS*UDI
HAS -E 6! 3CLU.N1 0! -P>ISON ( OLD &
MOD]N MAPS1 T ! COA/ BO? NOR? & S\? (
,LIMA HAS C]TA9LY SUBSID$4
  ,ON ! ISL& ( ,SAN ,LOR5ZO1 "! >E V
SATISFACTORY PRO(S ( ELEV,N )9 ! REC5T
P]IOD2 ? ( C\RSE IS N OPPOS$ 6! 2LIEF1 (
A SMALL S9K+ (! GR.D HAV+ SUBSEQU5TLY
TAK5 PLACE4 ,! SIDE ( ? ISL& FRONT+ !
,BAY ( ,CALLAO1 IS WORN 96?REE OBSCURE
T]RACES1 ! L[] "O ( : IS COV]$ 0A B$ A
MILE 9 L5G?1 ALM :OLLY -POS$ ( %ELLS (
EI<TE5 SPECIES1 N[ LIV+ 9 ! ADJO9+ SEA4
,! HEI<T ( ? B$ IS EI<TY-FIVE FEET4 ,_M
(! %ELLS >E DEEPLY CORROD$1 & H A M*
OLD] & M DECAY$ APPE>.E ?AN ^? AT !
HEI<T ( #EJJ OR #FJJ FEET ON ! COA/ (
,*ILE4 ,^! %ELLS >E ASSOCIAT$ ) M* -MON
SALT1 A LL SULPHATE ( LIME 7BO? PROBABLY
LEFT 0! EVAPOR,N (! SPRAY1 Z ! L& SL[LY
ROSE71 TGR ) SULPHATE ( SODA & MURIATE (
LIME4 ,!Y RE/ ON FRAG;TS (! "ULY+ S&/"O1
& >E COV]$ 0A FEW 9*ES ?ICK ( DETRITUS4
,! %ELLS1 HI<] UP ON ? T]RACE CD 2 TRAC$
SCAL+ (F 9 FLAKES1 & FALL+ 96AN IMPALPA#
P[D]2 & ON AN UPP] T]RACE1 AT ! HEI<T (
#AGJ FEET1 & LIKEWISE AT "S 3SID]ABLY
HI<] PO9TS1 ,I F.D A LAY] ( SAL9E P[D] (
EXACTLY SIMIL> APPE>.E1 & LY+ 9 ! SAME
RELATIVE POSI;N4 ,I H NO D\BT T ? UPP]
LAY] ORIG9,Y EXI/$ Z A B$ ( %ELLS1 L T
ON ! EI<TY-FIVE-FEET L$GE2 B X DOES N N[
3TA9 EV5 A TRACE ( ORGANIC /RUCTURE4 ,!
P[D] HAS BE5 ANALYZ$ = ME 0,MR4 ,T4
,REEKS2 X 3SI/S ( SULPHATES & MURIATES
BO? ( LIME & SODA1 ) V LL C>BONATE (
LIME4 ,X IS "KN T -MON SALT & C>BONATE (
LIME LEFT 9 A MASS = "S "T TGR1 "PLY
DECOMPOSE EA* O!R2 ?\< ? DOES N HAPP5 )
SMALL QUANTITIES 9 SOLU;N4 ,Z ! HALF-
DECOMPOS$ %ELLS 9 ! L[] "PS >E ASSOCIAT$
) M* -MON SALT1 TGR ) "S (! SAL9E
SUB/.ES -POS+ ! UPP] SAL9E LAY]1 & Z ^!
%ELLS >E CORROD$ & DECAY$ 9 A REM>KA#
MANN]1 ,I /R;GLY SUSPECT T ? D\#
DECOMPOSI;N HAS "H TAK5 PLACE4 ,!
RESULTANT SALTS1 H["E1 "\ 6BE C>BONATE (
SODA & MURIATE ( LIME1 ! LATT] IS
PRES5T1 B N ! C>BONATE ( SODA4 ,H;E ,I
AM L$ 6IMAG9E T 0"S UNEXPLA9$ M1NS1 !
C>BONATE ( SODA 2COMES *ANG$ 96!
SULPHATE4 ,X IS OBVI\S T ! SAL9E LAY] CD
N H BE5 PRES]V$ 9 ANY C.TRY 9 : ABUNDANT
RA9 O3A.N,Y FELL3 ON ! O!R H&1 ? V
CIRCUM/.E1 : AT F/ SI<T APPE>S S HI<LY
FAV\RA# 6! L;G PRES]V,N ( EXPOS$ %ELLS1
HAS PROBABLY BE5 ! 9DIRECT M1NS1 "? !
-MON SALT N HAV+ BE5 WA%$ AWAY1 ( _!
DECOMPOSI;N & E>LY DECAY4
  ,I 0 M* 9T]E/$ 0F9D+ ON ! T]RACE1 AT !
HEI<T ( EI<TY-FIVE FEET1 @__EMB$D$@__
AMID/ ! %ELLS & M* SEA-DRIFT$ RU2I%1 "S
BITS ( COTTON ?R1D1 PLAIT$ RU%1 &! H1D (
A /ALK ( ,9DIAN CORN3 ,I -P>$ ^! RELICS
) SIMIL> "OS TAK5 \ (! ,HUACAS1 OR OLD
,P]UVIAN TOMBS1 & F.D !M ID5TICAL 9
APPE>.E4 ,ON ! MA9L& 9 FRONT ( ,SAN
,LOR5ZO1 NE> ,BELLAVI/A1 "! IS AN
EXT5SIVE & LEVEL PLA9 AB A HUNDR$ FEET
HI<1 ( : ! L[] "P IS =M$ ( ALT]NAT+
LAY]S ( S& & IMPURE CLAY1 TGR ) "S
GRAVEL1 &! SURFACE1 6! DEP? ( F ?REE
6SIX FEET1 (A R$DI% LOAM1 3TA9+ A FEW
SCATT]$ SEA-%ELLS & NUM]\S SMALL FRAG;TS
( CO>SE R$ E>!NW>E1 M ABUNDANT AT C]TA9
SPOTS ?AN AT O!RS4 ,AT F/ ,I 0 9CL9$
62LIEVE T ? SUP]FICIAL B$1 F XS WIDE
EXT5T & SMOO?;S1 M/ H BE5 DEPOSIT$ 2N !
SEA2 B ,I AFWS F.D 9 "O SPOT1 T X LAY ON
AN >TIFICIAL FLOOR ( R.D /"OS4 ,X SEEMS1
"!=E1 MO/ PROBA# T AT A P]IOD :5 ! L&
/OOD AT A L[] LEVEL "! 0 A PLA9 V SIMIL>
6T N[ SURR.D+ ,CALLAO1 : 2+ PROTECT$ 0A
%+LE B1*1 IS RAIS$ B V LL ABV ! LEVEL (!
SEA4 ,ON ? PLA91 ) XS "ULY+ R$-CLAY B$S1
,I IMAG9E T ! ,9DIANS MANUFACTUR$ _!
E>!N VESSELS2 & T1 DUR+ "S VIOL5T
E>?QUAKE1 ! SEA BROKE OV] ! B1*1 & 3V]T$
! PLA9 96A TEMPOR>Y LAKE1 Z HAPP5$ R.D
,CALLAO 9 #AGAC & #AGDF4 ,! WAT] WD !N H
DEPOSIT$ MUD1 3TA9+ FRAG;TS ( POTT]Y F !
KILNS1 M ABUNDANT AT "S SPOTS ?AN AT
O!RS1 & %ELLS F ! SEA4 ,? B$1 ) FOSSIL
E>!NW>E1 /&S AT AB ! SAME HEI<T )! %ELLS
ON ! L[] T]RACE ( ,SAN ,LOR5ZO1 9 : !
COTTON-?R1D & O!R RELICS 7 EMB$D$4
  ,H;E WE MAY SAFELY 3CLUDE1 T )9 !
,9DO-HUMAN P]IOD "! HAS BE5 AN ELEV,N1 Z
2F ALLUD$ TO1 ( M ?AN EI<TY-FIVE FEET2 =
"S LL ELEV,N M/ H BE5 LO/ 0! COA/ HAV+
SUBSID$ S9CE ! OLD MAPS 7 5GRAV$4 ,AT
,VALP>AISO1 AL? 9 ! #BBJ YE>S 2F \R
VISIT1 ! ELEV,N _C H EXCE$$ N9ETE5 FEET1
YET SUBSEQU5TLY 6#AHAG1 "! HAS BE5 A
RISE1 "PLY 9S5SI# & "PLY 0A />T DUR+ !
%OCK ( #AHBB1 ( T5 OR ELEV5 FEET4 ,!
ANTIQU;Y (! ,9DO-HUMAN RACE "H1 JUDG+ 0!
EI<TY-FIVE FEET RISE (! L& S9CE ! RELICS
7 EMB$D$1 IS ! M REM>KA#1 Z ON ! COA/ (
,PATAGONIA1 :5 ! L& /OOD AB ! SAME NUMB]
( FEET L[]1 ! ,MACRAU*5IA 0 A LIV+ B1/2
B Z ! ,PATAGONIAN COA/ IS "S WAY 4TANT F
! ,CORDILL]A1 ! RIS+ "! MAY H BE5 SL[]
?AN "H4 ,AT ,BAHIA ,BLANCA1 ! ELEV,N HAS
BE5 ONLY A FEW FEET S9CE ! NUM]\S
GIGANTIC QUADRUP$S 7 "! 5TOMB$2 &1 AC 6!
G5],Y RCVD OP9ION1 :5 ^! EXT9CT ANIMALS
7 LIV+1 MAN DID N EXI/4 ,B ! RIS+ ( T "P
(! COA/ ( ,PATAGONIA1 IS P]H NO WAY
3NECT$ )! ,CORDILL]A1 B R )A L9E ( OLD
VOLCANIC ROCKS 9 ,B&A ,ORI5TAL1 S T X
MAY H BE5 9F9ITELY SL[] ?AN ON ! %ORES (
,P]U4 ,ALL ^! SPECUL,NS1 H["E1 M/ 2
VAGUE2 = :O W PRET5D 6SAY T "! MAY N H
BE5 S"EAL P]IODS ( SUBSID;E1 9T]CALAT$
2T ! MOVE;TS ( ELEV,N2 = WE "K T AL;G !
:OLE COA/ ( ,PATAGONIA1 "! H C]TA9LY BE5
_M & L;G PAUSES 9 ! UPW>D AC;N (!
ELEVATORY =CES4

    ,FOOTNOTES
  ,7#A7' ,VOL4 ;IV4 P4 #AA1 & VOL4 ;II4
P4 #BAG4 ,=! REM>KS ON ,GUAYAQUIL1 SEE
,SILLIMAN'S ,J\RN41 VOL4 ;XXIV4 P4 #CHD4
,= ^? ON ,TACNA 0,MR4 ,HAMILTON1 SEE
,TRANS4 ( ,BRITI% ,ASSOCI,N1 #AHDJ4 ,=
^? ON ,COSEGU9A SEE ,MR4 ,CALDCLEU< 9
,PHIL4 ,TRANS41 #AHCE4 ,9 ! =M] EDI;N ,I
COLLECT$ S"EAL REF];ES ON ! CO9CID;ES 2T
SU45 FALLS 9 ! B>OMET] & E>?QUAKES2 & 2T
E>?QUAKES & METEORS4
  ,7#B7' ,OBS]VA4 SOBRE EL ,CLIMA DE
,LIMA1 P4 #FG4--,AZ>A'S ,TRAVELS1 VOL4
I4 P4 #CHA4--,ULLOA'S ,VOYAGE1 VOL4 ;II4
P4 #BH4--,BUR*ELL'S ,TRAVELS1 VOL4 ;II4
P4 #EBD4--,WEB/]'S ,DESCRIP;N (!
,AZORES1 P4 #ABD4--,VOYAGE A L',ISLE DE
,FR.E P> UN ,(FIC] DU ,ROI1 TOM4 I4 P4
#BDH4--,DESCRIP;N ( ,/4 ,HEL5A1 P4 #ABC4
  ,7#C7' ,TEMPLE1 9 8 TRAVELS "? ,UPP]
,P]U1 OR ,BOLIVIA1 9 GO+ F ,POTOSI
6,ORURO1 SAYS1 8,I SAW _M ,9DIAN
VILLAGES OR DWELL+S 9 RU9S1 UP EV5 6! V
TOPS (! M.TA9S1 ATTE/+ A =M] POPUL,N ":
N[ ALL IS DESOLATE40 ,HE MAKES SIMIL>
REM>KS 9 ANO!R PLACE2 B ,I _C TELL :E!R
? DESOL,N HAS BE5 CAUS$ 0A WANT (
POPUL,N1 OR 0AN ALT]$ 3DI;N (! L&4
  ,7#D7' ,$9BUR<1 ,PHIL4 ,J\RN41 ,JAN41
#AHCJ1 P4 #GD2 & ,APRIL1 #AHCJ1 P4 #BEH
--AL ,DAUB5Y ON ,VOLCANOES1 P4 #DCH2 &
,B5GAL ,J\RN41 VOL4 ;VII4 P4 #CBD4
  ,7#E7' ,POLITICAL ,ESSAY ON ! ,K+DOM (
,NEW ,SPA91 VOL4 ;IV4
  P4 #AII4
    ,7#F7' ,A SIMIL> 9T]E/+ CASE IS
RECORD$ 9 ! ,MADRAS ,M$ICAL ,QU>T4
,J\RN41 #AHCI1 P4 #CDJ4 ,DR4 ,F]GUSON1 9
8 ADMIRA# ,PAP] 7SEE #I? VOL4 ( ,$9BUR<
,ROYAL ,TRANS471 %[S CLE>LY T ! POISON
IS G5]AT$ 9 ! DRY+ PROCESS2 & H;E T DRY
HOT C.TRIES >E (T5 ! MO/ UNH1L?Y4