,,*APT] ,,XV3 ,,PASSAGE ,,( ,,!
              ,,CORDILL]A

    ,VALP>AISO--,PORTILLO ,PASS--
    ,SAGAC;Y ( ,MULES--,M.TA9- TORR5TS--
    ,M9ES1 H[ 4COV]$--,PRO(S (! GRADUAL
    ,ELEV,N (! ,CORDILL]A--,E6ECT ( ,SN[
    ON ,ROCKS--,GEOLOGICAL ,/RUCTURE (!
    TWO MA9 ,RANGES1 _! 4T9CT ,ORIG9 &
    ,UPH1VAL--,GRT ,SUBSID;E--,R$ ,SN[--
    ,W9DS--,P9NACLES ( ,SN[--,DRY & CLE>
    ,ATMOSPH]E--,ELECTRIC;Y--,PAMPAS--
    ,ZOOLOGY (! OPPOSITE ,SIDE (! ,&ES--
    ,LOCU/S--,GRT ,BUGS--,M5DOZA--
    ,USPALLATA ,PASS--,SILICIFI$ ,TREES
    BURI$ Z !Y GREW--,9CAS ,BRIDGE--
    ,BAD;S (! ,PASSES EXA7]AT$--,CUMBRE
    --,CASU*AS--,VALP>AISO4
  ,M>* #G?1 #AHCE4--,WE /AY$ ?REE "DS AT
,3CEPCION1 & !N SAIL$ = ,VALP>AISO4 ,!
W9D 2+ NOR!RLY1 WE ONLY R1*$ ! M\? (!
H>B\R ( ,3CEPCION 2F X 0 D>K4 ,2+ V NE>
! L&1 &A FOG -+ ON1 ! AN*OR 0 DROPP$4
,PRES5TLY A L>GE ,AM]ICAN :AL] APPE>$
AL;GSIDE ( U2 & WE HE>D ! ,YANKEE SWE>+
AT 8 M5 6KEEP QUIET1 :IL/ HE LI/5$ =!
BR1K]S4 ,CAPTA9 ,FITZ ,ROY HAIL$ HM1 9 A
L\D CLE> VOICE1 6AN*OR ": HE !N WAS4 ,!
POOR MAN M/ H ?"\ ! VOICE CAME F ! %ORE3
S* A ,BABEL ( CRIES ISSU$ AT ONCE F !
%IP--E "O HALLOO+ \1 8,LET G ! AN*OR6
VE] CA#6 %ORT5 SAIL60 ,X 0 ! MO/ LAU<A#
?+ ,I "E HE>D4 ,IF ! %IP'S CREW _H BE5
ALL CAPTA9S1 & NO M51 "! CD N H BE5 A
GRT] UPRO> ( ORD]S4 ,WE AFWS F.D T !
MATE /UTT]$3 ,I SUPPOSE ALL H&S 7 ASSI/+
HM 9 GIV+ 8 ORD]S4
  ,ON ! #AA? WE AN*OR$ AT ,VALP>AISO1 &
TWO "DS AFWS ,I SET \ 6CROSS !
,CORDILL]A4 ,I PROCE$$ 6,SANTIAGO1 ":
,MR4 ,CALDCLEU< MO/ K9DLY ASSI/$ ME 9 E
POSSI# WAY 9 MAK+ ! LL PREP>,NS : 7 NEC4
,9 ? "P ( ,*ILE "! >E TWO PASSES ACR !
,&ES 6,M5DOZA3 ! "O MO/ -MONLY US$1
"NLY1 T ( ,ACONCAGUA OR ,USPALLATA--IS
SITUAT$ "S WAY 6! NOR?2 ! O!R1 CALL$ !
,PORTILLO1 IS 6! S\?1 & NE>]1 B M L(TY &
DANG]\S4
  ,M>* #AH?4--,WE SET \ =! ,PORTILLO
PASS4 ,L1V+ ,SANTIAGO WE CROSS$ ! WIDE
BURNT-UP PLA9 ON : T C;Y /&S1 & 9 ! AFN
>RIV$ AT ! ,MAYPU1 "O (! PR9CIPAL RIV]S
9 ,*ILE4 ,! VALLEY1 AT ! PO9T ": X 5T]S
! F/ ,CORDILL]A1 IS B.D$ ON EA* SIDE
0L(TY B>R5 M.TA9S2 & AL? N BROAD1 X IS V
F]TILE4 ,NUM]\S COTTAGES 7 SURR.D$
0V9ES1 & 0OR*>DS ( APPLE1 NECT>9E1 &
P1*-TREES--_! B\<S BR1K+ )! WEI<T (!
B1UTI;L RIPE FRUIT4 ,9 ! EV5+ WE PASS$ !
CU/OM-H\SE1 ": \R LU7AGE 0 EXAM9$4 ,!
FRONTI] ( ,*ILE IS BETT] GU>D$ 0!
,CORDILL]A1 ?AN 0! WAT]S (! SEA4 ,"! >E
V FEW VALLEYS : L1D 6! C5TRAL RANGES1 &!
M.TA9S >E Q IMPASSA# 9 O!R "PS 0B1/S (
BURD54 ,! CU/OM-H\SE (FIC]S 7 V CIVIL1 :
0 P]H "PLY [+ 6! PASSPORT : ! ,PRESID5T
(! ,REPUBLIC _H GIV5 ME2 B ,I M/ EXPRESS
MY ADMIR,N AT ! NATURAL POLITE;S ( ALM E
,*IL5O4 ,9 ? 9/.E1 ! 3TRA/ )! SAME CLASS
( M5 9 MO/ O!R C.TRIES 0 /R;GLY M>K$4 ,I
MAY M5;N AN ANECDOTE ) : ,I 0 AT ! "T M*
PL1S$3 WE MET NE> ,M5DOZA A LL & V FAT
NEGRESS1 RID+ A/RIDE ON A MULE4 ,%E _H A
@__GOITRE@__ S ENORM\S T X 0 SC>CELY
POSSI# 6AVOID GAZ+ AT H] =A MO;T2 B MY
TWO -PANIONS ALM 9/ANTLY1 0WAY (
APOLOGY1 MADE ! -MON SALUTE (! C.TRY
0TAK+ (F _! HATS4 ,": WD "O (! L[] OR
HI<] CLASSES 9 ,EUROPE1 H %[N S* FEEL+
POLITE;S 6A POOR & MIS]A# OBJECT (A
DEGRAD$ RACE8
  ,AT NI<T WE SLEPT AT A COTTAGE4 ,\R
MANN] ( TRAVELL+ 0 DELI<T;LLY 9DEP5D5T4
,9 ! 9HABIT$ "PS WE B"\ A LL FIREWOOD1
HIR$ PA/URE =! ANIMALS1 & BIV\ACK$ 9 !
CORN] (! SAME FIELD ) !M4 ,C>RY+ AN IRON
POT1 WE COOK$ & ATE \R SUPP] "U A CL\D.S
SKY1 & KNEW NO TR\#4 ,MY -PANIONS 7
,M>IANO ,GONZALES1 :O _H =M]LY A3OMPANI$
ME 9 ,*ILE1 & AN 8>RI]O10 ) 8 T5 MULES &
A 8MADR9A40 ,! MADR9A 7OR GOD"M7 IS A
MO/ IMPORTANT P]SONAGE3
  %E IS AN OLD /1DY M>E1 )A LL BELL R.D
H] NECK2 & :]"E %E GOES1 ! MULES1 L GD
*N1 FOLL[ H]4 ,! A6EC;N ( ^! ANIMALS =
_! MADR9AS SAVES 9F9ITE TR\#4 ,IF S"EAL
L>GE TROOPS >E TURN$ 96"O FIELD 6GRAZE1
9 ! MORN+ ! MULETE]S H ONLY 6L1D !
MADR9AS A LL A"P1 & T9KLE _! BELLS2 AL?
"! MAY 2 TWO OR ?REE HUNDR$ TGR1 EA*
MULE IMMLY "KS ! BELL ( XS [N MADR9A1 &
-ES 6H]4 ,X IS NE>LY IMPOSSI# 6LOSE AN
OLD MULE2 = IF DETA9$ = S"EAL H\RS 0=CE1
%E W1 0! P[] ( SMELL1 L A DOG1 TRACK \
H] -PANIONS1 OR R ! MADR9A1 =1 AC 6!
MULETE]1 %E IS ! *IEF OBJECT ( A6EC;N4
,! FEEL+1 H["E1 IS N ( AN 9DIVIDUAL
NATURE2 = ,I 2LIEVE ,I AM "R 9 SAY+ T
ANY ANIMAL )A BELL W S]VE Z A MADR9A4 ,9
A TROOP EA* ANIMAL C>RIES ON A LEVEL
ROAD1 A C>GO WEI<+ #DAF P.DS 7M ?AN #BI
/"O71 B 9 A M.TA9\S C.TRY #AJJ P.DS
LESS2 YET ) :AT DELICATE SLIM LIMBS1 )\T
ANY PROPOR;NAL BULK ( MUSCLE1 ^! ANIMALS
SUPPORT S GRT A BURD56 ,! MULE ALW
APPE>S 6ME A MO/ SURPRIS+ ANIMAL4 ,T A
HYBRID %D POSSESS M R1SON1 MEMORY1
OB/9ACY1 SOCIAL A6EC;N1 P[]S ( MUSCUL>
5DUR.E1 & L5G? ( LIFE1 ?AN EI ( XS
P>5TS1 SEEMS 69DICATE T >T HAS "H \TD"O
NATURE4 ,( \R T5 ANIMALS1 SIX 7 9T5D$ =
RID+1 & F\R = C>RY+ C>GOES1 EA* TAK+
TURN AB4 ,WE C>RI$ A GD D1L ( FOOD 9
CASE WE %D 2 SN[$ UP1 Z ! S1SON 0 R LATE
= PASS+ ! ,PORTILLO4
  ,M>* #AI?4--,WE RODE DUR+ ? "D 6! LA/1
& "!=E MO/ ELEVAT$1 H\SE 9 ! VALLEY4 ,!
NUMB] ( 9HABITANTS 2CAME SCANTY2 B :]"E
WAT] CD 2 BR"\ ON ! L&1 X 0 V F]TILE4
,ALL ! MA9 VALLEYS 9 ! ,CORDILL]A >E
"*IZ$ 0HAV+1 ON BO? SIDES1 A FR+E OR
T]RACE ( %+LE & S&1 RUDELY /RATIFI$1 &
G5],Y ( 3SID]A# ?ICK;S4 ,^! FR+ES
EVID5TLY ONCE EXT5D$ ACR ! VALLEYS & 7
UNIT$2 &! BOTTOMS (! VALLEYS 9 NOR!RN
,*ILE1 ": "! >E NO /R1MS1 >E ?US SMOO?LY
FILL$ UP4 ,ON ^! FR+ES ! ROADS >E G5],Y
C>RI$1 = _! SURFACES >E EV51 & !Y RISE1
)A V G5TLE SLOPE UP ! VALLEYS3 H;E1 AL1
!Y >E EASILY CULTIVAT$ 0IRRIG,N4 ,!Y MAY
2 TRAC$ UP 6A HEI<T ( 2T #GJJJ & #IJJJ
FEET1 ": !Y 2COME HI45 0! IRREGUL> PILES
( DEBRIS4 ,AT ! L[] 5D OR M\?S (!
VALLEYS1 !Y >E 3T9U\SLY UNIT$ 6^? L&-
LOCK$ PLA9S 7AL =M$ ( %+LE7 AT ! FOOT (!
MA9 ,CORDILL]A1 : ,I H DESCRIB$ 9 A =M]
*APT] Z "*I/IC (! SC5]Y ( ,*ILE1 & : 7
UND\BT$LY DEPOSIT$ :5 ! SEA P5ETRAT$
,*ILE1 Z X N[ DOES ! M S\!RN COA/S4 ,NO
"O FACT 9 ! GEOLOGY ( ,S\? ,AM]ICA1
9T]E/$ ME M ?AN ^! T]RACES ( RUDELY-
/RATIFI$ %+LE4 ,!Y PRECISELY RESEM# 9
-POSI;N ! MATT] : ! TORR5TS 9 EA* VALLEY
WD DEPOSIT1 IF !Y 7 *ECK$ 9 _! C\RSE
0ANY CAUSE1 S* Z 5T]+ A LAKE OR >M (!
SEA2 B ! TORR5TS1 9/1D ( DEPOSIT+ MATT]1
>E N[ /1DILY AT "W WE>+ AWAY BO? ! SOLID
ROCK & ^! ALLUVIAL DEPOSITS1 AL;G ! :OLE
L9E ( E MA9 VALLEY & SIDE VALLEY4 ,X IS
IMPOSSI# "H 6GIVE ! R1SONS1 B ,I AM
3V9C$ T ! %+LE T]RACES 7 A3UMULAT$1 DUR+
! GRADUAL ELEV,N (! ,CORDILL]A1 0!
TORR5TS DELIV]+1 AT SU3ESSIVE LEVELS1 _!
DETRITUS ON ! B1*H1DS ( L;G N>R[ >MS (!
SEA1 F/ HI< UP ! VALLEYS1 !N L[] & L[]
D[N Z ! L& SL[LY ROSE4 ,IF ? 2 S1 & ,I
_C D\BT X1 ! GR& & BROK5 *A9 (!
,CORDILL]A1 9/1D ( HAV+ BE5 SU45LY ?R[N
UP1 Z 0 TILL LATELY ! UNIV]SAL1 & / IS !
-MON OP9ION ( GEOLOGI/S1 HAS BE5 SL[LY
UPH1V$ 9 MASS1 9 ! SAME GRADUAL MANN] Z
! COA/S (! ,ATLANTIC & ,PACIFIC H RIS5
)9 ! REC5T P]IOD4 ,A MULTITUDE ( FACTS 9
! /RUCTURE (! ,CORDILL]A1 ON ? VIEW RCV
A SIMPLE EXPLAN,N4
  ,! RIV]S : FL[ 9 ^! VALLEYS "\ R 6BE
CALL$ M.TA9-TORR5TS4 ,_! 9CL9,N IS V
GRT1 & _! WAT] ! COL\R ( MUD4 ,! RO> : !
,MAYPU MADE1 Z X RU%$ OV] ! GRT R.D$
FRAG;TS1 0 L T (! SEA4 ,AMID/ ! D9 (
RU%+ WAT]S1 ! NOISE F ! /"OS1 Z !Y
RATTL$ "O OV] ANO!R1 0 MO/ 4T9CTLY AUDI#
EV5 F A 4T.E4 ,? RATTL+ NOISE1 NI<T &
"D1 MAY 2 HE>D AL;G ! :OLE C\RSE (!
TORR5T4 ,! S.D SPOKE ELOQU5TLY 6!
GEOLOGI/2 ! ?\S&S & ?\S&S ( /"OS1 :1
/RIK+ AG/ EA* O!R1 MADE ! "O DULL UNI=M
S.D1 7 ALL HURRY+ 9 "O DIREC;N4 ,X 0 L
?9K+ ON "T1 ": ! M9UTE T N[ GLIDES PA/
IS IRREVOCA#4 ,S 0 X ) ^! /"OS2 ! OC1N
IS _! ET]N;Y1 & EA* NOTE ( T WILD MUSIC
TOLD ( "O M /EP T[>DS _! DE/9Y4
  ,X IS N POSSI# =! M9D 6-PREH5D1 EXCEPT
0A SL[ PROCESS1 ANY E6ECT : IS PRODUC$
0A CAUSE REP1T$ S (T51 T ! MULTIPLI] XF
3VEYS AN IDEA1 N M DEF9ITE ?AN ! SAVAGE
IMPLIES :5 HE PO9TS 6! HAIRS ( 8 H1D4 ,Z
(T5 Z ,I H SE5 B$S ( MUD1 S&1 & %+LE1
A3UMULAT$ 6! ?ICK;S ( _M ?\S& FEET1 ,I H
FELT 9CL9$ 6EXCLAIM T CAUSES1 S* Z !
PRES5T RIV]S &! PRES5T B1*ES1 CD N"E H
GR.D D[N & PRODUC$ S* MASSES4 ,B1 ON !
O!R H&1 :5 LI/5+ 6! RATTL+ NOISE ( ^!
TORR5TS1 & CALL+ 6M9D T :OLE RACES (
ANIMALS H PASS$ AWAY F ! FACE (! E>?1 &
T DUR+ ? :OLE P]IOD1 NI<T & "D1 ^! /"OS
H G"O RATTL+ ONW>DS 9 _! C\RSE1 ,I H ?"\
6MYF1 C ANY M.TA9S1 ANY 3T95T1 )/& S*
WA/E8
  ,9 ? "P (! VALLEY1 ! M.TA9S ON EA*
SIDE 7 F #CJJJ 6#FJJJ OR #HJJJ FEET HI<1
) R.D$ \TL9ES & /EEP B>E FLANKS4 ,!
G5]AL COL\R (! ROCK 0 DULLI% PURPLE1 &!
/RATIFIC,N V 4T9CT4 ,IF ! SC5]Y 0 N
B1UTI;L1 X 0 REM>KA# & GR&4 ,WE MET DUR+
! "D S"EAL H]DS ( CATTLE1 : M5 7 DRIV+
D[N F ! HI<] VALLEYS 9 ! ,CORDILL]A4 ,?
SIGN (! APPROA*+ W9T] HURRI$ \R /EPS1 M
?AN 0 3V5I5T = GEOLOGIZ+4 ,! H\SE ": WE
SLEPT 0 SITUAT$ AT ! FOOT (A M.TA91 ON !
SUMMIT ( : >E ! M9ES ( ,S4 ,P$RO DE
,NOLASKO4 ,SIR ,F4 ,H1D M>VELS H[ M9ES H
BE5 4COV]$ 9 S* EXTRAORD9>Y SITU,NS1 Z !
BL1K SUMMIT (! M.TA9 ( ,S4 ,P$RO DE
,NOLASKO4 ,9 ! F/ PLACE1 METALLIC VE9S 9
? C.TRY >E G5],Y H>D] ?AN ! SURR.D+
/RATA3 H;E1 DUR+ ! GRADUAL WE> (! HILLS1
!Y PROJECT ABV ! SURFACE (! GR.D4
,SECONDLY1 ALM E LAB\R]1 ESPECI,Y 9 !
NOR!RN "PS ( ,*ILE1 "U/&S "S?+ AB !
APPE>.E ( ORES4 ,9 ! GRT M9+ PROV9CES (
,COQUIMBO & ,COPIAPO1 FIREWOOD IS V
SC>CE1 & M5 SE>* = X OV] E HILL & DALE2
& 0? M1NS NE>LY ALL ! RI*E/ M9ES H "!
BE5 4COV]$4 ,*ANUNCILLO1 F : SILV] 6!
VALUE ( _M HUNDR$ ?\S& P.DS HAS BE5
RAIS$ 9 ! C\RSE (A FEW YE>S1 0 4COV]$ 0A
MAN :O ?REW A /"O AT 8 LOAD$ DONKEY1 &
?9K+ T X 0 V H1VY1 HE PICK$ X UP1 & F.D
X FULL ( PURE SILV]3 ! VE9 O3URR$ AT NO
GRT 4T.E1 /&+ UP L A W$GE ( METAL4 ,!
M9]S1 AL1 TAK+ A CR[B> ) !M1 (T5 W&] ON
,SUN"DS OV] ! M.TA9S4 ,9 ? S\? "P (
,*ILE1 ! M5 :O DRIVE CATTLE 96!
,CORDILL]A1 & :O FREQU5T E RAV9E ": "!
IS A LL PA/URE1 >E ! USUAL 4COV]]S4
  #BJ?4--,Z WE ASC5D$ ! VALLEY1 !
VEGET,N1 )! EXCEP;N (A FEW PRETTY ALP9E
FL[]S1 2CAME EXCE$+LY SCANTY1 &(
QUADRUP$S1 BIRDS1 OR 9SECTS1 SC>CELY "O
CD 2 SE54 ,! L(TY M.TA9S1 _! SUMMITS
M>K$ )A FEW PAT*ES ( SN[1 /OOD WELL
SEP>AT$ F EA* O!R1 ! VALLEYS 2+ FILL$ UP
) AN IMM5SE ?ICK;S ( /RATIFI$ ALLUVIUM4
,! F1TURES 9 ! SC5]Y (! ,&ES : /RUCK ME
MO/1 Z 3TRA/$ )! O!R M.TA9 *A9S ) : ,I
AM ACQUA9T$1 W]E1--! FLAT FR+ES "S"TS
EXP&+ 96N>R[ PLA9S ON EA* SIDE (!
VALLEYS1--! B"R COL\RS1 *IEFLY R$ &
PURPLE1 (! UTT]LY B>E & PRECIPIT\S HILLS
( PORPHYRY1 ! GR& & 3T9U\S WALL-L DYKES1
--! PLA9LY- DIVID$ /RATA :1 ": NE>LY
V]TICAL1 =M$ ! PICTURESQUE & WILD C5TRAL
P9NACLES1 B ": LESS 9CL9$1 -POS$ ! GRT
MASSIVE M.TA9S ON ! \TSKIRTS (! RANGE1--
& LA/LY1 ! SMOO? 3ICAL PILES ( F9E &
B"RLY COL\R$ DETRITUS1 : SLOP$ UP AT A
HI< ANGLE F ! BASE (! M.TA9S1 "S"TS 6A
HEI<T ( M ?AN #BJJJ FEET4
  ,I FREQU5TLY OBS]V$1 BO? 9 ,TI]RA DEL
,FUEGO & )9 ! ,&ES1 T ": ! ROCK 0 COV]$
DUR+ ! GRT] "P (! YE> ) SN[1 X 0 %IV]$ 9
A V EXTRAORD9>Y MANN] 96SMALL ANGUL>
FRAG;TS4 ,SCORESBY ,7#A7' HAS OBS]V$ !
SAME FACT 9 ,SPITZB]G54 ,! CASE APPE>S
6ME R OBSCURE3 = T "P (! M.TA9 : IS
PROTECT$ 0A MANTLE ( SN[1 M/ 2 LESS
SUBJECT 6REP1T$ & GRT *ANGES (
TEMP]ATURE ?AN ANY O!R "P4 ,I H "S"TS
?"\1 T ! E>? & FRAG;TS ( /"O ON !
SURFACE1 7 P]H LESS E6ECTU,Y REMOV$
0SL[LY P]COLAT+ SN[-WAT] ,7#B7' ?AN
0RA91 & "!=E T ! APPE>.E (A QK] 49TEGR,N
(! SOLID ROCK "U ! SN[1 0 DECEPTIVE4
,:AT"E ! CAUSE MAY BE1 ! QUANT;Y (
CRUMBL+ /"O ON ! ,CORDILL]A IS V GRT4
,O3A.N,Y 9 ! SPR+1 GRT MASSES ( ?
DETRITUS SLIDE D[N ! M.TA9S1 & COV] !
SN[-DRIFTS 9 ! VALLEYS1 ?US =M+ NATURAL
ICE-H\SES4 ,WE RODE OV] "O1 ! HEI<T ( :
0 F> 2L ! LIMIT ( P]PETUAL SN[4
  ,Z ! EV5+ DREW 6A CLOSE1 WE R1*$ A
S+UL> BAS9-L PLA91 CALL$ ! ,VALLE DEL
,YESO4 ,X 0 COV]$ 0A LL DRY PA/URE1 & WE
_H ! PL1SANT SI<T (A H]D ( CATTLE AMID/
! SURR.D+ ROCKY DES]TS4 ,! VALLEY TAKES
XS "N ( ,YESO F A GRT B$1 ,I %D ?9K AT
L1/ #BJJJ FEET ?ICK1 ( :ITE1 & 9 "S "PS
Q PURE1 GYPSUM4 ,WE SLEPT )A "PY ( M51
:O 7 EMPLOY$ 9 LOAD+ MULES ) ? SUB/.E1 :
IS US$ 9 ! MANUFACTURE ( W9E4 ,WE SET \
E>LY 9 ! MORN+ 7#BA/71 & 3T9U$ 6FOLL[ !
C\RSE (! RIV]1 : _H 2COME V SMALL1 TILL
WE >RIV$ AT ! FOOT (! RIDGE1 T SEP>ATES
! WAT]S FL[+ 96! ,PACIFIC & ,ATLANTIC
,OC1NS4 ,! ROAD1 : Z YET _H BE5 GD )A
/1DY B V GRADUAL ASC5T1 N[ *ANG$ 96A
/EEP ZIGZAG TRACK UP ! GRT RANGE1 DIVID+
! REPUBLICS ( ,*ILE & ,M5DOZA4
  ,I W "H GIVE A V BRIEF SKET* (!
GEOLOGY (! S"EAL P>ALLEL L9ES =M+ !
,CORDILL]A4 ,( ^! L9ES1 "! >E TWO
3SID]ABLY HI<] ?AN ! O!RS2 "NLY1 ON !
,*ILIAN SIDE1 ! ,PEUQU5ES RIDGE1 :1 ": !
ROAD CROSSES X1 IS #AC1BAJ FEET ABV !
SEA2 &! ,PORTILLO RIDGE1 ON ! ,M5DOZA
SIDE1 : IS #AD1CJE FEET4 ,! L[] B$S (!
,PEUQU5ES RIDGE1 &(! S"EAL GRT L9ES 6!
WE/W>D ( X1 >E -POS$ (A VA/ PILE1 _M
?\S& FEET 9 ?ICK;S1 ( PORPHYRIES : H
FL[$ Z SUBM>9E LAVAS1 ALT]NAT+ ) ANGUL>
& R.D$ FRAG;TS (! SAME ROCKS1 ?R[N \ (!
SUBM>9E CRAT]S4 ,^! ALT]NAT+ MASSES >E
COV]$ 9 ! C5TRAL "PS1 0A GRT ?ICK;S ( R$
S&/"O1 3GLOM]ATE1 & CALC>E\S CLAY-SLATE1
ASSOCIAT$ )1 & PASS+ 9TO1 PRODIGI\S B$S
( GYPSUM4 ,9 ^! UPP] B$S %ELLS >E
TOL]ABLY FREQU5T2 & !Y 2L;G 6AB ! P]IOD
(! L[] *ALK ( ,EUROPE4 ,X IS AN OLD
/ORY1 B N ! LESS WOND];L1 6HE> ( %ELLS :
7 ONCE CRAWL+ ON ! BOTTOM (! SEA1 N[ /&+
NE>LY #AD1JJJ FEET ABV XS LEVEL4 ,! L[]
B$S 9 ? GRT PILE ( /RATA1 H BE5 4LOCAT$1
BAK$1 CRY/ALLIZ$ & ALM BL5D$ TGR1 "? !
AG5CY ( M.TA9 MASSES (A PECULI> :ITE
SODA-GRANITIC ROCK4
  ,! O!R MA9 L9E1 "NLY1 T (! ,PORTILLO1
IS (A TOT,Y DI6]5T =M,N3 X 3SI/S *IEFLY
( GR& B>E P9NACLES (A R$ POTA%-GRANITE1
: L[ D[N ON ! WE/]N FLANK >E COV]$ 0A
S&/"O1 3V]T$ 0! =M] H1T 96A QU>TZ-ROCK4
,ON ! QU>TZ1 "! RE/ B$S (A 3GLOM]ATE
S"EAL ?\S& FEET 9 ?ICK;S1 : H BE5 UPH1V$
0! R$ GRANITE1 & DIP AT AN ANGLE ( #DE
DEGS4 T[>DS ! ,PEUQU5ES L9E4 ,I 0
A/ONI%$ 6F9D T ? 3GLOM]ATE 0 "PLY -POS$
( PEB#S1 DERIV$ F ! ROCKS1 ) _! FOSSIL
%ELLS1 (! ,PEUQU5ES RANGE2 & "PLY ( R$
POTA%-GRANITE1 L T (! ,PORTILLO4 ,H;E WE
M/ 3CLUDE1 T BO? ! ,PEUQU5ES & ,PORTILLO
RANGES 7 "PI,Y UPH1V$ & EXPOS$ 6WE> &
TE>1 :5 ! 3GLOM]ATE 0 =M+2 B Z ! B$S (!
3GLOM]ATE H BE5 ?R[N (F AT AN ANGLE (
#DE DEGS4 0! R$ ,PORTILLO GRANITE 7)!
"ULY+ S&/"O BAK$ 0X71 WE MAY FEEL SURE1
T ! GRT] "P (! 9JEC;N & UPH1VAL (! ALR
"PI,Y =M$ ,PORTILLO L9E1 TOOK PLACE AF !
A3UMUL,N (! 3GLOM]ATE1 & L;G AF ! ELEV,N
(! ,PEUQU5ES RIDGE4 ,S T ! ,PORTILLO1 !
L(TIE/ L9E 9 ? "P (! ,CORDILL]A1 IS N S
OLD Z ! LESS L(TY L9E (! ,PEUQU5ES4
,EVID;E DERIV$ F AN 9CL9$ /R1M ( LAVA AT
! EA/]N BASE (! ,PORTILLO1 MI<T 2 A4UC$
6%[1 T X [ES "P ( XS GRT HEI<T 6ELEV,NS
(A / LAT] DATE4 ,LOOK+ 6XS E>LIE/ ORIG91
! R$ GRANITE SEEMS 6H BE5 9JECT$ ON AN
ANCI5T PRE-EXI/+ L9E ( :ITE GRANITE &
MICA-SLATE4 ,9 MO/ "PS1 P]H 9 ALL "PS1 (
! ,CORDILL]A1 X MAY 2 3CLUD$ T EA* L9E
HAS BE5 =M$ 0REP1T$ UPH1VALS & 9JEC;NS2
& T ! S"EAL P>ALLEL L9ES >E ( DI6]5T
AGES4 ,ONLY ?US C WE GA9 "T1 AT ALL
SU6ICI5T 6EXPLA9 ! TRULY A/ONI%+ AM.T (
DENUD,N1 : ^! GRT1 ?\< -P>ATIVELY ) MO/
O!R RANGES REC5T1 M.TA9S H SU6]$4
  ,F9,Y1 ! %ELLS 9 ! ,PEUQU5ES OR OLDE/
RIDGE1 PROVE1 Z 2F REM>K$1 T X HAS BE5
UPRAIS$ #AD1JJJ FEET S9CE A ,SECOND>Y
P]IOD1 : 9 ,EUROPE WE >E A3U/OM$ 63SID]
Z F> F ANCI5T2 B S9CE ^! %ELLS LIV$ 9 A
MOD]ATELY DEEP SEA1 X C 2 %[N T ! >EA N[
O3UPI$ 0! ,CORDILL]A1 M/ H SUBSID$ S"EAL
?\S& FEET--IN NOR!RN ,*ILE Z M* Z #FJJJ
FEET--S Z 6H ALL[$ T AM.T ( SUBM>9E
/RATA 6H BE5 H1P$ ON ! B$ ON : ! %ELLS
LIV$4 ,! PRO( IS ! SAME ) T 0: X 0 %[N1
T AT A M* LAT] P]IOD1 S9CE ! T]TI>Y
%ELLS ( ,PATAGONIA LIV$1 "! M/ H BE5 "!
A SUBSID;E ( S"EAL HUNDR$ FEET1 Z WELL Z
AN 5SU+ ELEV,N4 ,DAILY X IS =C$ HOME ON
! M9D (! GEOLOGI/1 T NO?+1 N EV5 ! W9D T
BL[S1 IS S UN/A# Z ! LEVEL (! CRU/ ( ?
E>?4
  ,I W MAKE ONLY "O O!R GEOLOGICAL
REM>K3 AL? ! ,PORTILLO *A9 IS "H HI<]
?AN ! ,PEUQU5ES1 ! WAT]S DRA9+ !
9T]M$IATE VALLEYS1 H BUR/ "? X4 ,! SAME
FACT1 ON A GR&] SCALE1 HAS BE5 REM>K$ 9
! EA/]N & L(TIE/ L9E (! ,BOLIVIAN
,CORDILL]A1 "? : ! RIV]S PASS3 ANALOG\S
FACTS H AL BE5 OBS]V$ 9 O!R QU>T]S (!
_W4 ,ON ! SUPPOSI;N (! SUBSEQU5T &
GRADUAL ELEV,N (! ,PORTILLO L9E1 ? C 2
"U/OOD2 =A *A9 ( ISLETS WD AT F/ APPE>1
&1 Z ^! 7 LIFT$ UP1 ! TIDES WD 2 ALW
WE>+ DEEP] & BROAD] *ANNELS 2T !M4 ,AT !
PRES5T "D1 EV5 9 ! MO/ RETIR$ ,S.DS ON !
COA/ ( ,TI]RA DEL ,FUEGO1 ! CURR5TS 9 !
TRANSV]SE BR1KS : 3NECT ! L;GITUD9AL
*ANNELS1 >E V /R;G1 S T 9 "O TRANSV]SE
*ANNEL EV5 A SMALL VESSEL "U SAIL 0
:IRL$ R.D & R.D4
  ,AB NOON WE 2GAN ! T$I\S ASC5T (!
,PEUQU5ES RIDGE1 & !N =! F/ "T EXP]I;ED
"S LL DI6ICULTY 9 \R RESPIR,N4 ,! MULES
WD HALT E FIFTY Y>DS1 & AF RE/+ =A FEW
SECONDS ! POOR WILL+ ANIMALS />T$ ( _!
[N A3ORD AG4 ,! %ORT BR1?+ F ! R>EFI$
ATMOSPH]E IS CALL$ 0! ,*IL5OS 8PUNA20 &
!Y H MO/ RIDICUL\S NO;NS 3C]N+ XS ORIG94
,"S SAY 8ALL ! WAT]S "H H PUNA20 O!RS T
8": "! IS SN[ "! IS PUNA20--& ? NO D\BT
IS TRUE4 ,! ONLY S5S,N ,I EXP]I;ED 0 A
SLI<T TI<T;S ACR ! H1D & *E/1 L T FELT
ON L1V+ A W>M ROOM & RUNN+ QKLY 9 FRO/Y
W1!R4 ,"! 0 "S IMAG9,N EV5 9 ?2 = ^U
F9D+ FOSSIL %ELLS ON ! HI<E/ RIDGE1 ,I
5TIRELY =GOT ! PUNA 9 MY DELI<T4
,C]TA9LY ! EX];N ( WALK+ 0 EXTREMELY
GRT1 &! RESPIR,N 2CAME DEEP & LABORI\S3
,I AM TOLD T 9 ,POTOSI 7AB #AC1JJJ FEET
ABV ! SEA7 /RANG]S D N 2COME ?OR\<LY
A3U/OM$ 6! ATMOSPH]E = AN 5TIRE YE>4 ,!
9HABITANTS ALL RECOMM5D ONIONS =! PUNA2
Z ? VEGETA# HAS "S"TS BE5 GIV5 9 ,EUROPE
= PECTORAL -PLA9TS1 X MAY POSSIBLY 2 (
R1L S]VICE3--= MY "P ,I F.D NO?+ S GD Z
! FOSSIL %ELLS6
  ,:5 AB HALF-WAY UP WE MET A L>GE "PY )
SEV5TY LOAD$ MULES4 ,X 0 9T]E/+ 6HE> !
WILD CRIES (! MULETE]S1 & 6WAT* ! L;G
DESC5D+ /R+ (! ANIMALS2 !Y APPE>$ S
DIM9UTIVE1 "! 2+ NO?+ B ! BLACK M.TA9S )
: !Y CD 2 -P>$4 ,:5 NE> ! SUMMIT1 ! W9D1
Z G5],Y HAPP5S1 0 IMPETU\S & EXTREMELY
COLD4 ,ON EA* SIDE (! RIDGE1 WE _H 6PASS
OV] BROAD B&S ( P]PETUAL SN[1 : 7 N[
SOON 6BE COV]$ 0A FRE% LAY]4 ,:5 WE R1*$
! CRE/ & LOOK$ BACKW>DS1 A GLORI\S VIEW
0 PRES5T$4 ,! ATMOSPH]E RESPL5D5TLY
CLE>2 ! SKY AN 9T5SE BLUE2 ! PROF.D
VALLEYS2 ! WILD BROK5 =MS3 ! H1PS (
RU9S1 PIL$ UP DUR+ ! LAPSE ( AGES2 !
B"R-COL\R$ ROCKS1 3TRA/$ )! QUIET M.TA9S
( SN[1 ALL ^! TGR PRODUC$ A SC5E NO "O
CD H IMAG9$4 ,NEI PLANT NOR BIRD1
EXCEPT+ A FEW 3DORS :EEL+ >.D ! HI<]
P9NACLES1 4TRACT$ MY ATT5;N F ! 9ANIMATE
MASS4 ,I FELT GLAD T ,I 0 AL"O3 X 0 L
WAT*+ A ?"U/ORM1 OR HE>+ 9 FULL OR*E/RA
A *ORUS (! ,MESSIAH4
  ,ON S"EAL PAT*ES (! SN[ ,I F.D !
,PROTOCO3US NIVALIS1 OR R$ SN[1 S WELL
"KN F ! A3.TS ( ,>CTIC NAVIGATORS4 ,MY
ATT5;N 0 CALL$ 6X1 0OBS]V+ ! FOOT/EPS (!
MULES /A9$ A PALE R$1 Z IF _! HO(S _H
BE5 SLI<TLY BLOODY4 ,I AT F/ ?"\ T X 0
[+ 6DU/ BL[N F ! SURR.D+ M.TA9S ( R$
PORPHYRY2 = F ! MAGNIFY+ P[] (! CRY/ALS
( SN[1 ! GR\PS ( ^! MICROSCOPICAL PLANTS
APPE>$ L CO>SE "PICLES4 ,! SN[ 0 COL\R$
ONLY ": X _H ?AW$ V RAPIDLY1 OR _H BE5
A3ID5T,Y CRU%$4 ,A LL RU2$ ON PAP] GAVE
X A FA9T ROSE T+E M+L$ )A LL BRICK-R$4
,I AFWS SCRAP$ "S (F ! PAP]1 & F.D T X
3SI/$ ( GR\PS ( LL SPH]ES 9 COL\R.S
CASES1 EA* (! ?\S&? "P ( AN 9* 9
DIAMET]4
  ,! W9D ON ! CRE/ (! ,PEUQU5ES1 Z J
REM>K$1 IS G5],Y IMPETU\S & V COLD3 X IS
SD ,7#C7' 6BL[ /1DILY F ! WE/W>D OR
,PACIFIC SIDE4 ,Z ! OBS]V,NS H BE5
*IEFLY MADE 9 SUMM]1 ? W9D M/ 2 AN UPP]
& RETURN CURR5T4 ,! ,P1K ( ,T5]I6E1 )A
LESS ELEV,N1 & SITUAT$ 9 LAT4 #BH DEGS41
9 L MANN] FALLS )9 AN UPP] RETURN /R1M4
,AT F/ X APPE>S R SURPRIS+1 T ! TRADE-
W9D AL;G ! NOR!RN "PS ( ,*ILE & ON !
COA/ ( ,P]U1 %D BL[ 9 S V S\!RLY A
DIREC;N Z X DOES2 B :5 WE REFLECT T !
,CORDILL]A1 RUNN+ 9 A NOR? & S\? L9E1
9T]CEPTS1 L A GRT WALL1 ! 5TIRE DEP? (!
L[] ATMOSPH]IC CURR5T1 WE C EASILY SEE T
! TRADE-W9D M/ 2 DRAWN NOR?W>D1 FOLL[+ !
L9E ( M.TA9S1 T[>DS ! EQUATORIAL
REGIONS1 & ?US LOSE "P ( T EA/]LY MOVE;T
: X O!RWISE WD H GA9$ F ! E>?'S ROT,N4
,AT ,M5DOZA1 ON ! EA/]N FOOT (! ,&ES1 !
CLIMATE IS SD 6BE SUBJECT 6L;G CALMS1 &
6FREQU5T ?\< FALSE APPE>.ES ( GA!R+ RA9-
/ORMS3 WE MAY IMAG9E T ! W9D1 : -+ F !
EA/W>D IS ?US BANK$ UP 0! L9E ( M.TA9S1
WD 2COME /AGNANT & IRREGUL> 9 XS
MOVE;TS4
  ,HAV+ CROSS$ ! ,PEUQU5ES1 WE DESC5D$
96A M.TA9\S C.TRY1 9T]M$IATE 2T ! TWO
MA9 RANGES1 & !N TOOK UP \R QU>T]S =!
NI<T4 ,WE 7 N[ 9 ! REPUBLIC ( ,M5DOZA4
,! ELEV,N 0 PROBABLY N "U #AA1JJJ FEET1
&! VEGET,N 9 3SEQU;E EXCE$+LY SCANTY4 ,!
ROOT (A SMALL SCRU2Y PLANT S]V$ Z FUEL1
B X MADE A MIS]A# FIRE1 &! W9D 0 PI]C+LY
COLD4 ,2+ Q TIR$ ) MY "DS "W1 ,I MADE UP
MY B$ Z QKLY Z ,I CD1 & W5T 6SLEEP4 ,AB
MIDNI<T ,I OBS]V$ ! SKY 2CAME SU45LY
CL\D$3
  ,I AWAK5$ ! >RI]O 6"K IF "! 0 ANY
DANG] ( BAD W1!R2 B HE SD T )\T ?"U &
LI<TN+ "! 0 NO RISK (A H1VY SN[-/ORM4 ,!
P]IL IS IMM95T1 &! DI6ICULTY ( SUBSEQU5T
ESCAPE GRT1 6ANY "O OV]TAK5 0BAD W1!R 2T
! TWO RANGES4 ,A C]TA9 CAVE (F]S ! ONLY
PLACE ( REFUGE3 ,MR4 ,CALDCLEU<1 :O
CROSS$ ON ? SAME "D (! MON?1 0 DETA9$ "!
= "S "T 0A H1VY FALL ( SN[4 ,CASU*AS1 OR
H\SES ( REFUGE1 H N BE5 BUILT 9 ? PASS Z
9 T ( ,USPALLATA1 &1 "!=E1 DUR+ !
AUTUMN1 ! ,PORTILLO IS LL FREQU5T$4 ,I
MAY "H REM>K T )9 ! MA9 ,CORDILL]A RA9
N"E FALLS1 = DUR+ ! SUMM] ! SKY IS
CL\D.S1 & 9 W9T] SN[-/ORMS AL"O O3UR4
  ,AT ! PLACE ": WE SLEPT WAT]
NECESS>ILY BOIL$1 F ! DIM9I%$ PRESSURE (
! ATMOSPH]E1 AT A L[] TEMP]ATURE ?AN X
DOES 9 A LESS L(TY C.TRY2 ! CASE 2+ !
3V]SE ( T (A ,PAP9'S DIGE/]4 ,H;E !
POTATOES1 AF REMA9+ = "S H\RS 9 ! BOIL+
WAT]1 7 NE>LY Z H>D Z "E4 ,! POT 0 LEFT
ON ! FIRE ALL NI<T1 & NEXT MORN+ X 0
BOIL$ AG1 B YET ! POTATOES 7 N COOK$4 ,I
F.D \ ?1 0OV]HE>+ MY TWO -PANIONS 4CUSS+
! CAUSE1 !Y _H -E 6! SIMPLE 3CLU.N1 8T !
CURS$ POT ,7: 0 A NEW "O7' DID N *OOSE
6BOIL POTATOES40
  ,M>* #BBND4--,AF EAT+ \R POTATO.S
BR1KFA/1 WE TRAVELL$ ACR ! 9T]M$IATE
TRACT 6! FOOT (! ,PORTILLO RANGE4 ,9 !
MI4LE ( SUMM] CATTLE >E BR"\ UP "H
6GRAZE2 B !Y _H N[ ALL BE5 REMOV$3 EV5 !
GRT] NUMB] (! ,GUANACOS _H DECAMP$1 "K+
WELL T IF OV]TAK5 "H 0A SN[-/ORM1 !Y WD
2 CAU<T 9 A TRAP4 ,WE _H A F9E VIEW (A
MASS ( M.TA9S CALL$ ,TUPUNGATO1 ! :OLE
CLO!D ) UNBROK5 SN[1 9 ! MID/ ( : "! 0 A
BLUE PAT*1 NO D\BT A GLACI]2--A
CIRCUM/.E ( R>E O3URR;E 9 ^! M.TA9S4 ,N[
-M;ED A H1VY & L;G CLIMB1 SIMIL> 6T (!
,PEUQU5ES4 ,BOLD 3ICAL HILLS ( R$
GRANITE ROSE ON EA* H&2 9 ! VALLEYS "! 7
S"EAL BROAD FIELDS ( P]PETUAL SN[4 ,^!
FROZ5 MASSES1 DUR+ ! PROCESS ( ?AW+1 _H
9 "S "PS BE5 3V]T$ 96P9NACLES OR
COLUMNS1 ,7#D7' :1 Z !Y 7 HI< & CLOSE
TGR1 MADE X DI6ICULT =! C>GO MULES
6PASS4 ,ON "O ( ^! COLUMNS ( ICE1 A
FROZ5 HORSE 0 /ICK+ Z ON A P$E/AL1 B )
XS H9D LEGS /RAI<T UP 9 ! AIR4 ,!
ANIMAL1 ,I SUPPOSE1 M/ H FALL5 ) XS H1D
D[NW>D 96A HOLE1 :5 ! SN[ 0 3T9U\S1 &
AFWS ! SURR.D+ "PS M/ H BE5 REMOV$ 0!
?AW4
  ,:5 NE>LY ON ! CRE/ (! ,PORTILLO1 WE 7
5VELOP$ 9 A FALL+ CL\D ( M9UTE FROZ5
SPICULA4 ,? 0 V UN=TUNATE1 Z X 3T9U$ !
:OLE "D1 & Q 9T]CEPT$ \R VIEW4 ,! PASS
TAKES XS "N ( ,PORTILLO1 F A N>R[ CLEFT
OR DOORWAY ON ! HI<E/ RIDGE1 "? : ! ROAD
PASSES4 ,F ? PO9T1 ON A CLE> "D1 ^? VA/
PLA9S : UN9T]RUPT$LY EXT5D 6! ,ATLANTIC
,OC1N C 2 SE54 ,WE DESC5D$ 6! UPP] LIMIT
( VEGET,N1 & F.D GD QU>T]S =! NI<T "U !
%ELT] ( "S L>GE FRAG;TS ( ROCK4 ,WE MET
"H "S PASS5G]S1 :O MADE ANXI\S 9QUIRIES
AB ! /ATE (! ROAD4 ,%ORTLY AF X 0 D>K !
CL\DS SU45LY CLE>$ AWAY1 &! E6ECT 0 Q
MAGICAL4 ,! GRT M.TA9S1 B"R )! FULL
MOON1 SEEM$ IMP5D+ OV] U ON ALL SIDES1 Z
OV] A DEEP CREVICE3 "O MORN+1 V E>LY1 ,I
WIT;S$ ! SAME /RIK+ E6ECT4 ,Z SOON Z !
CL\DS 7 4P]S$ X FROZE SEV]ELY2 B Z "! 0
NO W9D1 WE SLEPT V -=TABLY4
  ,! 9CR1S$ BRILLIANCY (! MOON & />S AT
? ELEV,N1 [+ 6! P]FECT TRANSP>5CY (!
ATMOSPH]E1 0 V REM>KA#4 ,TRAVEL]S HAV+
OBS]V$ ! DI6ICULTY ( JUDG+ HEI<TS &
4T.ES AMID/ L(TY M.TA9S1 H G5],Y
ATTRIBUT$ X 6! ABS;E ( OBJECTS (
-P>ISON4 ,X APPE>S 6ME1 T X IS FULLY Z
M* [+ 6! TRANSP>5CY (! AIR 3F.D+ OBJECTS
AT DI6]5T 4T.ES1 & LIKEWISE "PLY 6!
NOVELTY ( AN UNUSUAL DEGREE ( FATIGUE
>IS+ F A LL EX];N1--HABIT 2+ ?US OPPOS$
6! EVID;E (! S5SES4 ,I AM SURE T ?
EXTREME CLE>;S (! AIR GIVES A PECULI> "*
6! L&SCAPE1 ALL OBJECTS APPE>+ 6BE BR"\
NE>LY 96"O PLANE1 Z 9 A DRAW+ OR
PANORAMA4 ,! TRANSP>5CY IS1 ,I PRESUME1
[+ 6! EQUA# & HI< /ATE ( ATMOSPH]IC
DRY;S4 ,? DRY;S 0 %[N 0! MANN] 9 :
WOOD"W %RANK 7Z ,I SOON F.D 0! TR\# MY
GEOLOGICAL HAMM] GAVE ME72 0>TICLES (
FOOD1 S* Z BR1D & SUG>1 2COM+ EXTREMELY
H>D2 & 0! PRES]V,N (! SK9 & "PS (! FLE%
(! B1/S1 : _H P]I%$ ON ! ROAD4 ,6! SAME
CAUSE WE M/ ATTRIBUTE ! S+UL> FACIL;Y )
: ELECTRIC;Y IS EXCIT$4 ,MY FLANNEL
WAI/COAT1 :5 RU2$ 9 ! D>K1 APPE>$ Z IF X
_H BE5 WA%$ ) PHOSPHORUS1--E HAIR ON A
DOG'S BACK CRACKL$2--EV5 ! L95 %EETS1 &
L1!RN /RAPS (! SA4LE1 :5 H&L$1 EMITT$
SP>KS4
  ,M>* #BCRD4--,! DESC5T ON ! EA/]N SIDE
(! ,CORDILL]A IS M* %ORT] OR /EEP] ?AN
ON ! ,PACIFIC SIDE2 9 O!R ^WS1 ! M.TA9S
RISE M ABRUPTLY F ! PLA9S ?AN F ! ALP9E
C.TRY ( ,*ILE4 ,A LEVEL & BRILLIANTLY
:ITE SEA ( CL\DS 0 /RET*$ \ 2N \R FEET1
%UTT+ \ ! VIEW (! EQU,Y LEVEL ,PAMPAS4
,WE SOON 5T]$ ! B& ( CL\DS1 & DID N AG
EM]GE F X T "D4 ,AB NOON1 F9D+ PA/URE =!
ANIMALS & BU%ES = FIREWOOD AT ,LOS
,>5ALES1 WE /OPP$ =! NI<T4 ,? 0 NE> !
UPP]MO/ LIMIT ( BU%ES1 &! ELEV,N1 ,I
SUPPOSE1 0 2T SEV5 & EI<T ?\S& FEET4
  ,I 0 M* /RUCK )! M>K$ DI6];E 2T !
VEGET,N ( ^! EA/]N VALLEYS & ^? ON !
,*ILIAN SIDE3 YET ! CLIMATE1 Z WELL Z !
K9D ( SOIL1 IS NE>LY ! SAME1 &! DI6];E (
L;GITUDE V TRIFL+4 ,! SAME REM>K HOLDS
GD )! QUADRUP$S1 & 9 A LESS] DEGREE )!
BIRDS & 9SECTS4 ,I MAY 9/.E ! MICE1 ( :
,I OBTA9$ ?IRTE5 SPECIES ON ! %ORES (!
,ATLANTIC1 & FIVE ON ! ,PACIFIC1 & N "O
( !M IS ID5TICAL4 ,WE M/ EXCEPT ALL ^?
SPECIES1 : HABITU,Y OR O3A.N,Y FREQU5T
ELEVAT$ M.TA9S2 & C]TA9 BIRDS1 : RANGE Z
F> S\? Z ! ,/RAIT ( ,MAGELLAN4 ,? FACT
IS 9 P]FECT A3ORD.E )! GEOLOGICAL HI/ORY
(! ,&ES2 = ^! M.TA9S H EXI/$ Z A GRT
B>RI] S9CE ! PRES5T RACES ( ANIMALS H
APPE>$2 & "!=E1 UN.S WE SUPPOSE ! SAME
SPECIES 6H BE5 CR1T$ 9 TWO DI6]5T
PLACES1 WE "\ N 6EXPECT ANY CLOS]
SIMIL>;Y 2T ! ORGANIC 2+S ON ! OPPOSITE
SIDES (! ,&ES ?AN ON ! OPPOSITE %ORES (!
OC1N4 ,9 BO? CASES1 WE M/ L1VE \ (! "Q
^? K9DS : H BE5 A# 6CROSS ! B>RI]1 :E!R
( SOLID ROCK OR SALT-WAT]4 ,7#E7'
  ,A GRT NUMB] (! PLANTS & ANIMALS 7
ABSOLUTELY ! SAME Z1 OR MO/ CLOSELY
ALLI$ TO1 ^? ( ,PATAGONIA4 ,WE "H H !
AG\TI1 BIZCA*A1 ?REE SPECIES ( >MADILLO1
! O/RI*1 C]TA9 K9DS ( "PRIDGES & O!R
BIRDS1 N"O ( : >E "E SE5 9 ,*ILE1 B >E !
"*I/IC ANIMALS (! DES]T PLA9S (
,PATAGONIA4 ,WE H LIKEWISE _M (! SAME
76! EYES (A P]SON :O IS N A BOTANI/7
?ORNY /UNT$ BU%ES1 )]$ GRASS1 & DW>F
PLANTS4 ,EV5 ! BLACK SL[LY CRAWL+
BEETLES >E CLOSELY SIMIL>1 & "S1 ,I
2LIEVE1 ON RIGOR\S EXAM9,N1 ABSOLUTELY
ID5TICAL4 ,X _H ALW BE5 6ME A SUBJECT (
REGRET1 T WE 7 UNAVOIDABLY -PELL$ 6GIVE
UP ! ASC5T (! ,S4 ,CRUZ RIV] 2F R1*+ !
M.TA9S3
  ,I ALW _H A LAT5T HOPE ( MEET+ ) "S
GRT *ANGE 9 ! F1TURES (! C.TRY2 B ,I N[
FEEL SURE1 T X WD ONLY H BE5 FOLL[+ !
PLA9S ( ,PATAGONIA UP A M.TA9\S ASC5T4
  ,M>* #BD?4--,E>LY 9 ! MORN+ ,I CLIMB$
UP A M.TA9 ON "O SIDE (! VALLEY1 & 5JOY$
A F> EXT5D$ VIEW OV] ! ,PAMPAS4 ,? 0 A
SPECTACLE 6: ,I _H ALW LOOK$ =W>D )
9T]E/1 B ,I 0 4APPO9T$3 AT ! F/ GL.E X
M* RESEM#D A 4TANT VIEW (! OC1N1 B 9 !
NOR!RN "PS _M IRREGUL>ITIES 7 SOON
4T+UI%A#4 ,! MO/ /RIK+ F1TURE 3SI/$ 9 !
RIV]S1 :1 FAC+ ! RIS+ SUN1 GLITT]$ L
SILV] ?R1DS1 TILL LO/ 9 ! IMM5S;Y (!
4T.E4 ,AT MID"D WE DESC5D$ ! VALLEY1 &
R1*$ A HOVEL1 ": AN (FIC] & ?REE SOLDI]S
7 PO/$ 6EXAM9E PASSPORTS4 ,"O ( ^! M5 0
A ?OR\<BR$ ,PAMPAS
  ,9DIAN3 HE 0 KEPT M* =! SAME PURPOSE Z
A BLOODH.D1 6TRACK \ ANY P]SON :O MI<T
PASS 0SECRETLY1 EI ON FOOT OR HORSEBACK4
,"S YE>S AGO1 A PASS5G] 5D1V\R$ 6ESCAPE
DETEC;N1 0MAK+ A L;G CIRCUIT OV] A
NEI<B\R+ M.TA92 B ? ,9DIAN1 HAV+ 0*.E
CROSS$ 8 TRACK1 FOLL[$ X =! :OLE "D OV]
DRY & V /ONY HILLS1 TILL AT LA/ HE CAME
ON 8 PREY HI45 9 A GULLY4 ,WE "H HE>D T
! SILV]Y CL\DS1 : WE _H ADMIR$ F ! B"R
REGION ABV1 _H P\R$ D[N TORR5TS ( RA94
,! VALLEY F ? PO9T GRADU,Y OP5$1 &!
HILLS 2CAME M]E WAT]-WORN HILLOCKS -P>$
6! GIANTS 2H3 X !N EXP&$ 96A G5TLY SLOP+
PLA9 ( %+LE1 COV]$ ) L[ TREES & BU%ES4
,? TALUS1 AL? APPE>+ N>R[1 M/ 2 NE>LY T5
MILES WIDE 2F X BL5DS 96! APP>5TLY D1D
LEVEL ,PAMPAS4 ,WE PASS$ ! ONLY H\SE 9 ?
NEI<B\RHOOD1 ! ,E/ANCIA ( ,*AQUAIO3 & AT
SUNSET WE PULL$ UP 9 ! F/ SNUG CORN]1 &
"! BIV\ACK$4
  ,M>* #BE?4--,I 0 REM9D$ (! ,PAMPAS (
,BU5OS ,AYRES1 0SEE+ ! DISK (! RIS+ SUN1
9T]SECT$ 0AN HORIZON LEVEL Z T (! OC1N4
,DUR+ ! NI<T A H1VY DEW FELL1 A
CIRCUM/.E : WE DID N EXP]I;E )9 !
,CORDILL]A4 ,! ROAD PROCE$$ = "S 4T.E
DUE EA/ ACR A L[ SWAMP2 !N MEET+ ! DRY
PLA91 X TURN$ 6! NOR? T[>DS ,M5DOZA4 ,!
4T.E IS TWO V L;G "DS' J\RNEY4 ,\R F/
"D'S J\RNEY 0 CALL$ F\RTE5 L1GUES
6,E/ACADO1 &! SECOND SEV5TE5 6,LUXAN1
NE> ,M5DOZA4 ,! :OLE 4T.E IS OV] A LEVEL
DES]T PLA91 ) N M ?AN TWO OR ?REE H\SES4
,! SUN 0 EXCE$+LY P[];L1 &! RIDE DEVOID
( ALL 9T]E/4 ,"! IS V LL WAT] 9 ?
8TRAV]SIA10 & 9 \R SECOND "D'S J\RNEY WE
F.D ONLY "O LL POOL4 ,LL WAT] FL[S F !
M.TA9S1 & X SOON 2COMES ABSORB$ 0! DRY &
POR\S SOIL2 S T1 AL? WE TRAVELL$ AT !
4T.E ( ONLY T5 OR FIFTE5 MILES F ! \T]
RANGE (! ,CORDILL]A1 WE DID N CROSS A
S+LE /R1M4 ,9 _M "PS ! GR.D 0 9CRU/$ )A
SAL9E E6LORESC;E2 H;E WE _H ! SAME SALT-
LOV+ PLANTS : >E -MON NE> ,BAHIA
,BLANCA4 ,! L&SCAPE HAS A UNI=M "* F !
,/RAIT ( ,MAGELLAN1 AL;G ! :OLE EA/]N
COA/ ( ,PATAGONIA1 6! ,RIO ,COLORADO2 &
X APPE>S T ! SAME K9D ( C.TRY EXT5DS 9L&
F ? RIV]1 9 A SWEEP+ L9E Z F> Z ,SAN
,LUIS & P]H EV5 FUR!R NOR?4 ,6! EA/W>D (
? CURV$ L9E LIES ! BAS9 (! -P>ATIVELY
DAMP & GRE5 PLA9S ( ,BU5OS ,AYRES4 ,!
/]ILE PLA9S ( ,M5DOZA & ,PATAGONIA 3SI/
(A B$ ( %+LE1 WORN SMOO? & A3UMULAT$ 0!
WAVES (! SEA :ILE ! ,PAMPAS1 COV]$
0?I/LES1 CLOV]1 & GRASS1 H BE5 =M$ 0!
ANCI5T E/U>Y MUD (! ,PLATA4
  ,AF \R TWO "DS' T$I\S J\RNEY1 X 0
REFRE%+ 6SEE 9 ! 4T.E ! R[S ( POPL>S &
WILL[S GR[+ R.D ! VILLAGE & RIV] (
,LUXAN4 ,%ORTLY 2F WE >RIV$ AT ? PLACE1
WE OBS]V$ 6! S\? A RA7$ CL\D ( D>K
R$DI%-BR[N COL\R4 ,AT F/ WE ?"\ T X 0
SMOKE F "S GRT FIRE ON ! PLA9S2 B WE
SOON F.D T X 0 A SW>M ( LOCU/S4 ,!Y 7
FLY+ NOR?W>D2 &)! AID (A LI<T BREEZE1 !Y
OV]TOOK U AT A RATE ( T5 OR FIFTE5 MILES
AN H\R4 ,! MA9 BODY FILL$ ! AIR F A
HEI<T ( TW5TY FEET1 6T1 Z X APPE>$1 (
TWO OR ?REE ?\S& ABV ! GR.D2 8&! S.D (
_! W+S 0 Z ! S.D ( *>IOTS ( _M HORSES
RUNN+ 6BATTLE30 OR R1 ,I %D SAY1 L A
/R;G BREEZE PASS+ "? ! RI7+ (A %IP4 ,!
SKY1 SE5 "? ! ADV.ED GU>D1 APPE>$ L A
MEZZOT9TO 5GRAV+1 B ! MA9 BODY 0
IMP]VI\S 6SI<T2 !Y 7 N1 H["E1 S ?ICK
TGR1 B T !Y CD ESCAPE A /ICK WAV$
BACKW>DS & =W>DS4 ,:5 !Y ALI<T$1 !Y 7 M
NUM]\S ?AN ! L1VES 9 ! FIELD1 &! SURFACE
2CAME R$DI% 9/1D ( 2+ GRE53 ! SW>M HAV+
ONCE ALI<T$1 ! 9DIVIDUALS FLEW F SIDE
6SIDE 9 ALL DIREC;NS4 ,LOCU/S >E N AN
UNCOMMON PE/ 9 ? C.TRY3 ALR DUR+ !
S1SON1 S"EAL SMALL] SW>MS _H -E UP F !
S\?1 ":1 Z APP>5TLY 9 ALL O!R "PS (! _W1
!Y >E BR$ 9 ! DES]TS4 ,! POOR COTTAG]S 9
VA9 ATTEMPT$ 0LI<T+ FIRES1 0%\TS1 &
0WAV+ BRAN*ES 6AV]T ! ATTACK4 ,? SPECIES
( LOCU/ CLOSELY RESEM#S1 & P]H IS
ID5TICAL )1 ! FAM\S ,GRYLLUS MIGRATORIUS
(! ,EA/4
  ,WE CROSS$ ! ,LUXAN1 : IS A RIV] (
3SID]A# SIZE1 ?\< XS C\RSE T[>DS ! SEA-
COA/ IS V IMP]FECTLY "KN3 X IS EV5
D\BT;L :E!R1 9 PASS+ OV] ! PLA9S1 X IS N
EVAPORAT$ & LO/4 ,WE SLEPT 9 ! VILLAGE (
,LUXAN1 : IS A SMALL PLACE SURR.D$
0G>D5S1 & =MS ! MO/ S\!RN CULTIVAT$
4TRICT 9 ! ,PROV9CE ( ,M5DOZA2 X IS FIVE
L1GUES S\? (! CAPITAL4 ,AT NI<T ,I
EXP]I;ED AN ATTACK 7= X DES]VES NO LESS
A "N7 (! @__,B5*UCA@__1 A SPECIES (
,REDUVIUS1 ! GRT BLACK BUG (! ,PAMPAS4
,X IS MO/ 4GU/+ 6FEEL S(T W+.S 9SECTS1
AB AN 9* L;G1 CRAWL+ OV] "O'S BODY4 ,2F
SUCK+ !Y >E Q ?91 B AFWS !Y 2COME R.D &
BLOAT$ ) BLOOD1 & 9 ? /ATE >E EASILY
CRU%$4 ,"O : ,I CAU<T AT ,IQUIQUE1 7= !Y
>E F.D 9 ,*ILE & ,P]U17 0 V EMPTY4 ,:5
PLAC$ ON A TA#1 & ?\< SURR.D$ 0P1 IF A
F+] 0 PRES5T$1 ! BOLD 9SECT WD IMMLY
PROTRUDE XS SUCK]1 MAKE A *>GE1 & IF
ALL[$1 DRAW BLOOD4 ,NO PA9 0 CAUS$ 0!
W.D4 ,X 0 CURI\S 6WAT* XS BODY DUR+ !
ACT ( SUCK+1 Z 9 LESS ?AN T5 M9UTES X
*ANG$ F 2+ Z FLAT Z A WAF] 6A GLOBUL>
=M4 ,? "O F1/1 = : ! B5*UCA 0 9DEBT$ 6"O
(! (FIC]S1 KEPT X FAT DUR+ F\R :OLE
MON?S2 B1 AF ! F/ =TNI<T1 X 0 Q R1DY 6H
ANO!R SUCK4
  ,M>* #BG?4--,WE RODE ON 6,M5DOZA4 ,!
C.TRY 0 B1UTI;LLY CULTIVAT$1 & RESEM#D
,*ILE4 ,? NEI<B\RHOOD IS CELEBRAT$ = XS
FRUIT2 & C]TA9LY NO?+ CD APPE> M FL\RI%+
?AN ! V9EY>DS &! OR*>DS ( FIGS1 P1*ES1 &
OLIVES4 ,WE B"\ WAT]-MELONS NE>LY TWICE
Z L>GE Z A MAN'S H1D1 MO/ DELICI\SLY
COOL & WELL-FLAV\R$1 =A HALFP5NY APIECE2
&=! VALUE ( ?REEP;E1 HALF A :EELB>R[;L (
P1*ES4 ,! CULTIVAT$ & 5CLOS$ "P ( ?
PROV9CE IS V SMALL2 "! IS LL M ?AN T :
WE PASS$ "? 2T ,LUXAN &! CAPITAL4 ,! L&1
Z 9 ,*ILE1 [ES XS F]TIL;Y 5TIRELY
6>TIFICIAL IRRIG,N2 & X IS RE,Y WOND];L
6OBS]VE H[ EXTRAORD9>ILY PRODUCTIVE A
B>R5 TRAV]SIA IS ?US R5D]$4
  ,WE /AY$ ! 5SU+ "D 9 ,M5DOZA4 ,!
PROSP];Y (! PLACE HAS M* DECL9$ ( LATE
YE>S4 ,! 9HABITANTS SAY 8X IS GD 6LIVE
IN1 B V BAD 6GR[ RI* IN40 ,! L[] ORD]S H
! L\NG+1 RECK.S MANN]S (! ,GAU*OS (!
,PAMPAS2 & _! DRESS1 RID+-GE>1 & HABITS
( LIFE1 >E NE>LY ! SAME4 ,6MY M9D ! T[N
_H A /UPID1 =LORN ASPECT4 ,NEI ! BOA/$
ALAM$A1 NOR ! SC5]Y1 IS AT ALL -P>A# ) T
( ,SANTIAGO2 B 6^? :O1 -+ F ,BU5OS
,AYRES1 H J CROSS$ ! UNV>I$ ,PAMPAS1 !
G>D5S & OR*>DS M/ APPE> DELI<T;L4 ,SIR
,F4 ,H1D1 SP1K+ (! 9HABITANTS1 SAYS1
8,!Y EAT _! D9N]S1 & X IS S V HOT1 !Y G
6SLEEP--& CD !Y D BETT]80 ,I Q AGREE )
,SIR ,F4 ,H1D3 ! HAPPY DOOM (! ,M5DOZ9OS
IS 6EAT1 SLEEP & 2 IDLE4
  ,M>* #BI?4--,WE SET \ ON \R RETURN
6,*ILE1 0! ,USPALLATA PASS SITUAT$ NOR?
( ,M5DOZA4 ,WE _H 6CROSS A L;G & MO/
/]ILE TRAV]SIA ( FIFTE5 L1GUES4 ,! SOIL
9 "PS 0 ABSOLUTELY B>E1 9 O!RS COV]$
0NUMB].S DW>F CACTI1 >M$ ) =MIDA# SP9ES1
& CALL$ 0! 9HABITANTS 8LL LIONS40 ,"!
W]E1 AL1 A FEW L[ BU%ES4 ,AL? ! PLA9 IS
NE>LY ?REE ?\S& FEET ABV ! SEA1 ! SUN 0
V P[];L2 &! H1T Z WELL Z ! CL\DS (
IMPALPA# DU/1 R5D]$ ! TRAVELL+ EXTREMELY
IRK"S4 ,\R C\RSE DUR+ ! "D LAY NE>LY
P>ALLEL 6! ,CORDILL]A1 B GRADU,Y
APPROA*+ !M4 ,2F SUNSET WE 5T]$ "O (!
WIDE VALLEYS1 OR R BAYS1 : OP5 ON !
PLA93 ? SOON N>R[$ 96A RAV9E1 ": A LL
HI<] UP ! H\SE ( ,VILLA ,VIC5CIO IS
SITUAT$4 ,Z WE _H RI45 ALL "D )\T A DROP
( WAT]1 BO? \R MULES & SELVES 7 V ?IR/Y1
& WE LOOK$ \ ANXI\SLY =! /R1M : FL[S D[N
? VALLEY4 ,X 0 CURI\S 6OBS]VE H[ GRADU,Y
! WAT] MADE XS APPE>.E3 ON ! PLA9 !
C\RSE 0 Q DRY2 0DEGREES X 2CAME A LL
DAMP]2 !N PU4LES ( WAT] APPE>$2 ^! SOON
2CAME 3NECT$2 & AT ,VILLA ,VIC5CIO "! 0
A NICE LL RIVULET4
  #CJ?4--,! SOLIT>Y HOVEL : BE>S !
IMPOS+ "N ( ,VILLA ,VIC5CIO1 HAS BE5
M5;N$ 0E TRAVELL] :O HAS CROSS$ ! ,&ES4
,I /AY$ "H & AT "S NEI<B\R+ M9ES DUR+ !
TWO SU3E$+ "DS4 ,! GEOLOGY (! SURR.D+
C.TRY IS V CURI\S4 ,! ,USPALLATA RANGE
IS SEP>AT$ F ! MA9 ,CORDILL]A 0A L;G
N>R[ PLA9 OR BAS91 L ^? S (T5 M5;N$ 9
,*ILE1 B HI<]1 2+ SIX ?\S& FEET ABV !
SEA4 ,? RANGE HAS NE>LY ! SAME
GEOGRAPHICAL POSI;N ) RESPECT 6!
,CORDILL]A1 : ! GIGANTIC ,PORTILLO L9E
HAS1 B X IS (A TOT,Y DI6]5T ORIG93 X
3SI/S ( V>I\S K9DS ( SUBM>9E LAVA1
ALT]NAT+ ) VOLCANIC S&/"OS & O!R REM>KA#
S$I;T>Y DEPOSITS2 ! :OLE HAV+ A V CLOSE
RESEMBL.E 6"S (! T]TI>Y B$S ON ! %ORES (
! ,PACIFIC4 ,F ? RESEMBL.E ,I EXPECT$
6F9D SILICIFI$ WOOD1 : IS G5],Y "*I/IC (
^? =M,NS4 ,I 0 GRATIFI$ 9 A V
EXTRAORD9>Y MANN]4 ,9 ! C5TRAL "P (!
RANGE1 AT AN ELEV,N ( AB SEV5 ?\S& FEET1
,I OBS]V$ ON A B>E SLOPE "S SN[-:ITE
PROJECT+ COLUMNS4 ,^! 7 PETRIFI$ TREES1
ELEV5 2+ SILICIFI$1 & F ?IRTY 6=TY 3V]T$
96CO>SELY-CRY/ALLIZ$ :ITE CALC>E\S SP>4
,!Y 7 ABRUPTLY BROK5 (F1 ! UP"R /UMPS
PROJECT+ A FEW FEET ABV ! GR.D4 ,!
TRUNKS M1SUR$ F ?REE 6FIVE FEET EA* 9
CIRCUMF];E4 ,!Y /OOD A LL WAY A"P F EA*
O!R1 B ! :OLE =M$ "O GR\P4 ,MR4 ,ROB]T
,BR[N HAS BE5 K9D 5 6EXAM9E ! WOOD3 HE
SAYS X 2L;GS 6! FIR TRIBE1 P>TAK+ (! "*
(! ,>AUC>IAN FAMILY1 B ) "S CURI\S PO9TS
( A69;Y )! YEW4 ,! VOLCANIC S&/"O 9 : !
TREES 7 EMB$D$1 & F ! L[] "P ( : !Y M/ H
SPRUNG1 _H A3UMULAT$ 9 SU3ESSIVE ?9
LAY]S >.D _! TRUNKS2 &! /"O YET RETA9$ !
IMPRES.N (! B>K4
  ,X REQUIR$ LL GEOLOGICAL PRACTICE
69T]PRET ! M>VELL\S /ORY : ? SC5E AT
ONCE UNFOLD$2 ?\< ,I 3FESS ,I 0 AT F/ S
M* A/ONI%$ T ,I CD SC>CELY 2LIEVE !
PLA9E/ EVID;E4 ,I SAW ! SPOT ": A CLU/]
( F9E TREES ONCE WAV$ _! BRAN*ES ON !
%ORES (! ,ATLANTIC1 :5 T OC1N 7N[ DRIV5
BACK #GJJ MILES7 CAME 6! FOOT (! ,&ES4
,I SAW T !Y _H SPRUNG F A VOLCANIC SOIL
: _H BE5 RAIS$ ABV ! LEVEL (! SEA1 & T
SUBSEQU5TLY ? DRY L&1 ) XS UP"R TREES1
_H BE5 LET D[N 96! DEP?S (! OC1N4 ,9 ^!
DEP?S1 ! =M]LY DRY L& 0 COV]$ 0S$I;T>Y
B$S1 & ^! AG 0ENORM\S /R1MS ( SUBM>9E
LAVA--"O S* MASS ATTA9+ ! ?ICK;S (A ?\S&
FEET2 & ^! DELUGES ( MOLT5 /"O & AQUE\S
DEPOSITS FIVE "TS ALT]NATELY _H BE5
SPR1D \4 ,! OC1N : RCVD S* ?ICK MASSES1
M/ H BE5 PROF.DLY DEEP2 B AG !
SUBT]RAN1N =CES EX]T$ !MVS1 & ,I N[
2HELD ! B$ ( T OC1N1 =M+ A *A9 ( M.TA9S
M ?AN SEV5 ?\S& FEET 9 HEI<T4 ,NOR _H ^?
ANTAGONI/IC =CES BE5 DORMANT1 : >E ALW
AT "W WE>+ D[N ! SURFACE (! L&2 ! GRT
PILES ( /RATA _H BE5 9T]SECT$ 0_M WIDE
VALLEYS1 &! TREES N[ *ANG$ 96SILEX1 7
EXPOS$ PROJECT+ F ! VOLCANIC SOIL1 N[
*ANG$ 96ROCK1 :;E =M]LY1 9 A GRE5 & BU4+
/ATE1 !Y _H RAIS$ _! L(TY H1DS4 ,N[1 ALL
IS UTT]LY IRRECLAIMA# & DES]T2 EV5 !
LI*5 _C AD"H 6! /ONY CA/S ( =M] TREES4
,VA/1 & SC>CELY -PREH5SI# Z S* *ANGES M/
"E APPE>1 YET !Y H ALL O3URR$ )9 A
P]IOD1 REC5T :5 -P>$ )! HI/ORY (!
,CORDILL]A2 &! ,CORDILL]A XF IS
ABSOLUTELY MOD]N Z -P>$ ) _M (!
FOSSILIF]\S /RATA ( ,EUROPE & ,AM]ICA4
  ,APRIL #A/4--,WE CROSS$ ! ,UPSALLATA
RANGE1 & AT NI<T SLEPT AT ! CU/OM-H\SE--
! ONLY 9HABIT$ SPOT ON ! PLA94 ,%ORTLY
2F L1V+ ! M.TA9S1 "! 0 A V EXTRAORD9>Y
VIEW2 R$1 PURPLE1 GRE51 & Q :ITE S$I;T>Y
ROCKS1 ALT]NAT+ ) BLACK LAVAS1 7 BROK5
UP & ?R[N 96ALL K9DS ( 4ORD] 0MASSES (
PORPHYRY ( E %ADE ( COL\R1 F D>K BR[N 6!
B"RE/ LILAC4 ,X 0 ! F/ VIEW ,I "E SAW1 :
RE,Y RESEM#D ^? PRETTY SEC;NS :
GEOLOGI/S MAKE (! 9SIDE (! E>?4
  ,! NEXT "D WE CROSS$ ! PLA91 & FOLL[$
! C\RSE (! SAME GRT M.TA9 /R1M : FL[S
0,LUXAN4 ,"H X 0 A FURI\S TORR5T1 Q
IMPASSA#1 & APPE>$ L>G] ?AN 9 ! L[
C.TRY1 Z 0 ! CASE )! RIVULET ( ,VILLA
,VIC5CIO4 ,ON ! EV5+ (! SU3E$+ "D1 WE
R1*$ ! ,RIO DE LAS ,VACAS1 : IS 3SID]$ !
WOR/ /R1M 9 ! ,CORDILL]A 6CROSS4 ,Z ALL
^! RIV]S H A RAPID & %ORT C\RSE1 & >E
=M$ 0! MELT+ (! SN[1 ! H\R (! "D MAKES A
3SID]A# DI6];E 9 _! VOLUME4 ,9 ! EV5+ !
/R1M IS MU4Y & FULL1 B AB "DBR1K X
2COMES CLE>]1 & M* LESS IMPETU\S4 ,? WE
F.D 6BE ! CASE )! ,RIO ,VACAS1 & 9 !
MORN+ WE CROSS$ X ) LL DI6ICULTY4
  ,! SC5]Y ?US F> 0 V UN9T]E/+1 -P>$ ) T
(! ,PORTILLO PASS4 ,LL C 2 SE5 2Y ! B>E
WALLS (! "O GR& FLAT-BOTTOM$ VALLEY1 : !
ROAD FOLL[S UP 6! HI<E/ CRE/4 ,! VALLEY
&! HUGE ROCKY M.TA9S >E EXTREMELY B>R53
DUR+ ! TWO PREVI\S NI<TS ! POOR MULES _H
ABSOLUTELY NO?+ 6EAT1 = EXCEPT+ A FEW L[
RES9\S BU%ES1 SC>CELY A PLANT C 2 SE54
,9 ! C\RSE ( ? "D WE CROSS$ "S (! WOR/
PASSES 9 ! ,CORDILL]A1 B _! DANG] HAS
BE5 M* EXA7]AT$4 ,I 0 TOLD T IF ,I
ATTEMPT$ 6PASS ON FOOT1 MY H1D WD TURN
GI4Y1 & T "! 0 NO ROOM 64M.T2 B ,I DID N
SEE A PLACE ": ANY "O MI<T N H WALK$ OV]
BACKW>DS1 OR GOT (F 8 MULE ON EI SIDE4
,"O (! BAD PASSES1 CALL$ @__LAS
,ANIMAS@__ 7! S\LS71 ,I _H CROSS$1 & DID
N F9D \ TILL A "D AFWS1 T X 0 "O (! AW;L
DANG]S4 ,NO D\BT "! >E _M "PS 9 :1 IF !
MULE %D /UM#1 ! RID] WD 2 HURL$ D[N A
GRT PRECIPICE2 B ( ? "! IS LL *.E4 ,I
D>E SAY1 9 ! SPR+1 ! 8LAD]AS10 OR ROADS1
: EA* YE> >E =M$ ANEW ACR ! PILES (
FALL5 DETRITUS1 >E V BAD2 B F :AT ,I
SAW1 ,I SUSPECT ! R1L DANG] IS NO?+4 ,)
C>GO-MULES ! CASE IS R DI6]5T1 =! LOADS
PROJECT S F>1 T ! ANIMALS1 O3A.N,Y RUNN+
AG/ EA* O!R1 OR AG/ A PO9T ( ROCK1 LOSE
_! BAL.E1 & >E ?R[N D[N ! PRECIPICES4 ,9
CROSS+ ! RIV]S ,I C WELL 2LIEVE T !
DI6ICULTY MAY 2 V GRT3 AT ? S1SON "! 0
LL TR\#1 B 9 ! SUMM] !Y M/ 2 V HAZ>D\S4
,I C Q IMAG9E1 Z ,SIR ,F4 ,H1D
DESCRIBES1 ! DI6]5T EXPRES.NS ( ^? :O
@__HAVE@__ PASS$ ! GULF1 & ^? :O
@__>E@__ PASS+4 ,I N"E HE>D ( ANY MAN 2+
DR[N$1 B ) LOAD$ MULES X FREQU5TLY
HAPP5S4 ,! >RI]O TELLS Y 6%[ YR MULE !
BE/ L9E1 & !N ALL[ H] 6CROSS Z %E LIKES3
! C>GO-MULE TAKES A BAD L9E1 & IS (T5
LO/4
  ,APRIL #D?4--,F ! ,RIO DE LAS ,VACAS
6! ,PU5TE DEL ,9CAS1 HALF A "D'S J\RNEY4
,Z "! 0 PA/URE =! MULES1 & GEOLOGY = ME1
WE BIV\ACK$ "H =! NI<T4 ,:5 "O HE>S (A
NATURAL ,BRIDGE1 "O PICTURES 6"O'S SELF
"S DEEP & N>R[ RAV9E1 ACR : A BOLD MASS
( ROCK HAS FALL52 OR A GRT >* HOLL[$ \ L
! VAULT (A CAV]N4 ,9/1D ( ?1 ! ,9CAS
,BRIDGE 3SI/S (A CRU/ ( /RATIFI$ %+LE
CE;T$ TGR 0! DEPOSITS (! NEI<B\R+ HOT
SPR+S4 ,X APPE>S1 Z IF ! /R1M _H SCOOP$
\ A *ANNEL ON "O SIDE1 L1V+ AN OV]HANG+
L$GE1 : 0 MET 0E>? & /"OS FALL+ D[N F !
OPPOSITE CLIFF4 ,C]TA9LY AN OBLIQUE
JUNC;N1 Z WD HAPP5 9 S* A CASE1 0 V
4T9CT ON "O SIDE4 ,! ,BRIDGE (! ,9CAS IS
0NO M1NS WOR?Y (! GRT MON>*S ^: "N X
BE>S4
  #E?4--,WE _H A L;G "D'S RIDE ACR !
C5TRAL RIDGE1 F ! ,9CAS ,BRIDGE 6! ,OJOS
DEL ,AGUA1 : >E SITUAT$ NE> ! L[E/
@__CASU*A@__ ON ! ,*ILIAN SIDE4 ,^!
CASU*AS >E R.D LL T[]S1 ) /EPS \TSIDE
6R1* ! FLOOR1 : IS RAIS$ "S FEET ABV !
GR.D ON A3.T (! SN[-DRIFTS4 ,!Y >E EI<T
9 NUMB]1 & "U ! ,SPANI% GOV]N;T 7 KEPT
DUR+ ! W9T] WELL /OR$ ) FOOD & *>COAL1 &
EA* C\RI] _H A MA/]-KEY4 ,N[ !Y ONLY
ANSW] ! PURPOSE ( CAVES1 OR R DUNGEONS4
,S1T$ ON "S LL EM9;E1 !Y >E N1 H["E1 ILL
SUIT$ 6! SURR.D+ SC5E ( DESOL,N4 ,!
ZIGZAG ASC5T (! ,CUMBRE1 OR ! "PI;N (!
WAT]S1 0 V /EEP & T$I\S2 XS HEI<T1 AC
6,MR4 ,P5TL&1 IS #AB1DED FEET4 ,! ROAD
DID N PASS OV] ANY P]PETUAL SN[1 AL? "!
7 PAT*ES ( X ON BO? H&S4 ,! W9D ON !
SUMMIT 0 EXCE$+LY COLD1 B X 0 IMPOSSI# N
6/OP =A FEW M9UTES 6ADMIRE1 AG & AG1 !
COL\R (! H1V5S1 &! BRILLIANT TRANSP>5CY
(! ATMOSPH]E4 ,! SC5]Y 0 GR&3 6! WE/W>D
"! 0 A F9E *AOS ( M.TA9S1 DIVID$ 0PROF.D
RAV9ES4 ,"S SN[ G5],Y FALLS 2F ? P]IOD (
! S1SON1 & X HAS EV5 HAPP5$ T !
,CORDILL]A H BE5 F9,Y CLOS$ 0? "T4 ,B WE
7 MO/ =TUNATE4 ,! SKY1 0NI<T & 0"D1 0
CL\D.S1 EXCEPT+ A FEW R.D LL MASSES (
VAP\R1 T FLOAT$ OV] ! HI<E/ P9NACLES4 ,I
H (T5 SE5 ^! ISLETS 9 ! SKY1 M>K+ !
POSI;N (! ,CORDILL]A1 :5 ! F>-4TANT
M.TA9S H BE5 HI45 2N ! HORIZON4
  ,APRIL #F?4--,IN ! MORN+ WE F.D "S
?IEF _H /OL5 "O ( \R MULES1 &! BELL (!
MADR9A4 ,WE "!=E RODE ONLY TWO OR ?REE
MILES D[N ! VALLEY1 & /AY$ "! ! 5SU+ "D
9 HOPES ( RECOV]+ ! MULE1 : ! >RI]O ?"\
_H BE5 HI45 9 "S RAV9E4 ,! SC5]Y 9 ? "P
_H ASSUM$ A ,*ILIAN "*3 ! L[] SIDES (!
M.TA9S1 DOTT$ OV] )! PALE "EGRE5
,QUILLAY TREE1 &)! GRT *&ELI]-L CACTUS1
>E C]TA9LY M 6BE ADMIR$ ?AN ! B>E EA/]N
VALLEYS2 B ,I _C Q AGREE )! ADMIR,N
EXPRESS$ 0"S TRAVELL]S4 ,! EXTREME
PL1SURE1 ,I SUSPECT1 IS *IEFLY [+ 6!
PROSPECT (A GD FIRE &(A GD SUPP]1 AF
ESCAP+ F ! COLD REGIONS ABV3 & ,I AM
SURE ,I MO/ HE>TILY "PICIPAT$ 9 ^!
FEEL+S4
  #H?4--,WE LEFT ! VALLEY (! ,ACONCAGUA1
0: WE _H DESC5D$1 & R1*$ 9 ! EV5+ A
COTTAGE NE> ! ,VILLA DEL ,/4 ,ROSA4 ,!
F]TIL;Y (! PLA9 0 DELI<T;L3 ! AUTUMN 2+
ADV.ED1 ! L1VES ( _M (! FRUIT-TREES 7
FALL+2 &(! LAB\R]S1--"S 7 BUSY 9 DRY+
FIGS & P1*ES ON ! RO(S ( _! COTTAGES1
:ILE O!RS 7 GA!R+ ! GRAPES F ! V9EY>DS4
,X 0 A PRETTY SC5E2 B ,I MISS$ T P5SIVE
/ILL;S : MAKES ! AUTUMN 9 ,5GL& 9DE$ !
EV5+ (! YE>4 ,ON ! #AJ? WE R1*$
,SANTIAGO1 ": ,I RCVD A V K9D & HOSPITA#
RECEP;N F ,MR4 ,CALDCLEU<4 ,MY EXCUR.N
ONLY CO/ ME TW5TY-F\R "DS1 & N"E DID ,I
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